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Rear Diff-Can't Stop Leak

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2000 Mile trip Preperation

need new radio for 05

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Thx, for the explaination. I just wanted to be sure I was on the same page. I've made my own rivets many times to repair old things, so I've got the idea. I'll try and determine how thick the area where the leak is first.
 
If that's the only bad spot I personally don't think it's a structural issue. I'd sand it down to clean metal and use a putty to try and seal it. JBweld makes some gas and oil proof putty that comes in a roll with the hardener in the center, you knead it together to mix it and apply. Can be tapped and drilled when set up. I used it as a bush fix in West Virginia to get me through the week when I flipped my bike down a nasty hill in and busted the gas tank wide open... literally an 1/8" by 4+" long gash in the tank. It is still holding up. I'm totally amazed given the abuse the bike takes, lots of vibration and bouncing, high heat and constantly in contact with gasoline.
 
It almost seems like there are two castings. An initial and then a 1/4" material cast on top. The "cancer" is uniform 1/4". Once chipped, beaten, or it falls off, the underlying metal seems very competent. It seems to be all or nothing. 1/4" ready to come off, or nothing coming off, and always down to a smooth uniform "undercasting".

I have seen some casting that have been "smoothed up" with something other than metal. Would be interesting to see how magnetic the chipped off stuff is? bg
 
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It's magnetic, not strong, but magnetic.

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Well I'm going to try the cheaper way out first. I've found an industrial product by loctite called superior metal. It's used to repair metal machine parts inside mechanical equipment. It's expensive $140 for the kit. I did see a guy repair a huge water pump that the impeller must have shoved a rock through the sidewall and it was repaired with this stuff. I also saw a guy turn a 3" machine shaft down and then fill it back with this stuff and place it back in service. Wish me luck. And I'll post some pics.
 
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