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Rear Diff Play

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I have a '16 2500 mega cab 4x4, auto and it seems to have more than normal play in the rear end.

When changing from coasting in gear to accelerating if I don't slowly apply the gas it will clunk noticeably. F to R usually makes a pretty good "ding" too.

Anyone else notice this? I have around 38K on it, thinking maybe I bring it to the dealer to apply some powertrain warranty to the shims!?

-M
 
My guess the Pinion Bearing...It will get to the Point when you put in gear it will sound like a Gun Shot...Do that in a Parking lot and People will duck.
 
In the day, that was normal for a Chrysler product. Worst one I owned was a new 89 Dodge Dakota 4x4. It was worst when trying to use cruise control. Anyhoo, If you want to check where your clunk is, get on level ground, place in park without parking brake, get under it and have a friend, burly works best, and have them rock the truck back and forth. You will quickly learn where your play and clunk are?

Hope this helps. Let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ron
 
You sure the clunk is in the rear? The transfer case has quite a bit of slop in it. Between the rear and the T case it can be quite loud
 
Thank you for the ideas, I am not positive on it being the rear end (have never changed fluid, don’t pull heavy) but I have an appointment at my dealer for a checkup tomorrow. I have changed the rear diff bearings in my ‘00 3 times in 225k, so I won’t be surprised to hear similar. 2 things: the pinion is dry. If the bearing is sloppy the seal is doing a great job. Also this is my first truck with an exhaust brake, I wonder if that pressure on the back side of the gears opens up the tolerance faster than a “normal” lashing. However I know big trucks have had Jakes forever and, I have 36k on it. It’s like new!

I will let you all know what they find. Thanks again.

M
 
The manual states on my rear axle change, and IMO it is a bit vague, but every 24K if using your vehicle for police, taxi, fleet, off road or frequent trailer towing. I change mine at 40K, and the OE fluid looked great, no shavings etc. I don't tow frequently, so I felt like I didn't fall in that category. As said its vague on changing, so someone that does not tow heavy or frequently ,not sure about changing every 24K. Although it will never hurt to get the OE out, just not sure its doing any harm at 38K.

Hopefully the dealer will figure it out .
 
OE fluid is synthetic....According to the dealer

Yes but not good quality. I will admit i ran mine too long but it was TOAST at 24k. Started grabbing when taking off from a start turning at 18-20k.
IMG_4940.JPG
 
Ron you are pulling allways heavy, you stress the components way more then the OP does, so you might have a benefit from your Oil.
Butt every quality gear oil that is within the manufacturers specs is fine.

From Oil the only one that i myself are really picky is Transmission, every other oil is justfrom the shelf that is available right then and there. That works out fine for 95% of all vehicles, we are using trucks that run in 100 countrys all over the world with just the soup that is there. We are not driving Ferraris. :rolleyes:
 
True I do carry a lot of weight but I have read about the grabbing on other trucks. Changing to "something" I use stops this issue.
 
Dealer tech looked everything over today and said my hardware is in spec. U-joints, pinion, splines are all good. They ended up flashing the transmission module as they were feeling like it was an issue of shifting and timing of the different actions that take place vs. something being "loose". They said they warmed it up and ran it and feel it is better.

And, they fit it in under my powertrain warranty!
 
For those who have easy access to tech bulletins and curiosity, my service ticket for this shows the update was per bulletin 18-19-04-gv .6 CC.

M
 
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