2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission rear diff seal

[telliott]

how difficult is it to change this seal? Do I have to pull out axels and gears and all that fun stuff? I am not very comfortable working on differentials, so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[PRohr]

No need to pull anything like that apart. I had to do this twice on my truck because the first new one leaked because oa groove on the yoke... . So i suggest you pick up a speedie sleeve for the yoke to gove the new seal a new surface. I made a tool that bolts to the yoke to hold it so i could loosen and re-torque the pinion nut. All you have to do is drop the driveshaft, pull the pinion nut, slide the yoke off and R&R the seal. Like I said though I would put a speedie sleeve on the yoke if you have a ton of miles too as a precaution. Then put it back together.

 

[telliott]

Sounds good, thanks. Any idea what size the pinion nut is? i'm assuming i dont have that big of a socket in my tool collection so i might need to go pick that up too. Also, what oil should i use for the dif?



I'm not very familiar with speedie sleeves. Can i get one at any parts store? do they come in different sizes?

 

[PRohr]

I want to say 1-3/16" or 1-5/16"... . something like that. Make sure you torque the nut correctly as well. I don't remember the spec..... but I can look it up if someone else doesn't post it.

 

[CCiatteo]

I just had this done on my truck. Couple of things to watch for.

Don't bother with a speedi sleeve. Go to the dealer or driveline shop and get a new yoke, seal and pinion nut. Total for parts should be right around $150 (dealer was $110 for the yoke, $10 nut, $35 seal). Be sure to count threads or measure the how much of the threads are beyond the nut so that when you reinstall you don't over tighten the pinion nut and cause problems. The nut is like a 400+ ft/lbs I think? The real PITA of the job could be getting the old yoke off the pinion. Have a beefy gear puller or similar tool ready just in case the yoke fights you coming off the pinion. Other than that I think its pretty straight forward.

And its so nice not to have to worry about checking the rear for fluid... .

Chris

 

[CumminsPower98]

The spec is 450-500 ft lbs. Not many people have a wrench this big. I have had mine apart a few times. I tried the sleeve and it didn't last long. The last time I got a new yoke. The torque is not real critical as long as its good and tight since there are pinion preload shims. Mark the nut, pinion, and yoke in relation to one another and try to get them all lined up the same when you put it back. Tighten to your mark if not a bit more. If you have an inch pound beam type torque wrench then check the before and after rotational torque (axles removed for best results). The yoke is an interference fit so you will mostly likely need a puller.

 

[PRohr]

My sleeve has been fine for more than 10K miles..... I'd spend $5 for it again before $100+ for a yoke... ...

 

[CumminsPower98]

I don't know why I had issues with mine. It wasn't worn out but ended up leaking. I don't remember how long it went before leaking. At the time I was driving OTR and putting on about 100k/year.

 

[BDaugherty]

I've used plenty of speedi sleeves with no problems over the last few years. Always use the right installer and some good locktite when you install one.



The pinion shaft is 7/8-18 thread and I think it takes a 1 5/16 socket. A good way to get it loose if you don't have a big impact wrench is to tie the driveshaft up out of the way and then put a long bar on the nut and let it rest under the leaf spring so that when you back up just a little, the nut holds still and the pinion moves so that it breaks loose. You can torque it this way also, if you don't over do it.



A side note: once you get the driveshaft off, make sure that the pinion bearings aren't loose. If they are, it isn't a big deal to adjust them. It's just something to look at while you're there.

 

[telliott]

Thanks to everyone, this has all been very helpful!