Rear differential gear ratios/ Spyntec locking hubs

[GaryHayes]

Gentlemen: Can any of you seasoned Dodge Truck people inform me how to find out what the diff. gear ratios are? On my ol' 1 st gen., it was stamped on the diff. cover, The 2010 3500 4wd dualy only has #'s 33409 13758 AAN.

Here's another one: Appreciate any input on installation of Spyntec front manual locking hubs. Have heard there is milling involved and/or changing out to smaller front U joints or RVC joints.. Like to use existing. Thaks in advance

 

[mpaulson]

What transmission do you have and what are your RPM's at 60 mph?
If auto, at 60 MPH in 6th gear it will be 3.42-1350rpm, 3.73-1490 rpm, 4.10-1650 rpm
If manual, at 60 MPH in 6th gear it will be 3.42-1640 rpm, 3.73-1770rpm, 4.10-1930rpm(don't think this was a choice though)
the rpm's are approximate with stock tires.

 

[DGamelin]

You can call the dodge dealer with the vin and they can tell you the gear ratio. You can also jack the truck up, if ti is an open unit hold one tire still and turn the other tire 2 revolutions exactly counting the turns of the pinion. If the pinion turns just over 4 turns it is a 4.10, 3-3/4 turns = 3.73 just over 3-1/2 = 3.55 just under 3-1/2 =3.42 and just over 3 turns 3.08. If it is a pozi and both tires turn at the same time turn the tire just 1 turn and count the pinion.

If you go back in my post I have a write up on some Spyntec and RCV's I put in some trucks.

 

[Wayne M.]

Totally happy with my Spyntecs. I think you’d use the same kit as my 04. The only surprise I had was shortening the (4 per side) bolts that hold in the unit bearing that comes out, and the spindle bolts in. They’re blind holes. Supplied shims go between the u joint clip/ yoke. I think there’s a conversion joint out nowadays to address this.

 

[GaryHayes]

Thanks you, Gentlemen: From mpaulsen's formula, pretty sure I got 3.73 ratio. (truck has a manual transmission). After wading thru Dgamelin many threads, and Wayne's input, made a decision to purchase the Spyntec.
product. I'm off to the races!!
this should end the thread

 

[Wayne M.]

Good luck GaryHayes. I don't know your level of experience in tackling this type of job, but I would prepare by reading up on this forum about extracting the old hubs, making sure you can safely horse the front of these heavy trucks, and tools like the old Dana 60 pin socket for the axle nuts you'll install and techniques like packing bearings with grease.
This job evokes some old ways, and brings out the mechanic in you.

 

[EDankievitch]

I've installed both Spyntec and Dynatraxx have been very happy with both. How ever if I had to do it again I'd probably use the hub kit from RAMMan. His kit uses the hub bearing asy from a Ford Super Duty it's a sealed unit much like the one our trucks come with but it has the manual locking feature. I believe they are short enough that you can use the RAM Aluminum LongHorn wheels with out having to modify them just leave the center cap off. I had to open up the center of the wheels so they would clear the Spintec hubs. Then I had to make a adpter to hold the center caps on the rear wheels. Was a bit of a pain.

 

[Wayne M.]

That's pretty trick, ED.

 

[EDankievitch]

Thanks A bored man with tools is a dangerous thing... Lol

 

[GaryHayes]

Thanks for the heads up, WayneM. I have pulled the hubs from my ol' 1st gen '92, 4wd 250 and did the necessary wheel bearing packing, ect. Got the tools, . Just a little concerned about pulling the old unit bearing from the knuckle on this 2010. I've read that sometimes they are rusted in & requires all manner of heavy duty apparatus to get them separated. I'll do a little more homework on this.

 

[Wayne M.]

Thanks for the heads up, WayneM. I have pulled the hubs from my ol' 1st gen '92, 4wd 250 and did the necessary wheel bearing packing, ect. Got the tools, . Just a little concerned about pulling the old unit bearing from the knuckle on this 2010. I've read that sometimes they are rusted in & requires all manner of heavy duty apparatus to get them separated. I'll do a little more homework on this.

Yup, there’s a method of using a deep socket and the hydraulics of the power steering to pop the hubs out. It worked for me, as a last resort. Theres good reading on it in the 3 gen section, which is essentially the same setup, I think. I do many hub bearings on different vehicles, and this was the second hardest unit bearing I’ve had come out. :-laf

 

[EDankievitch]

The Deep socket method seems to work the best. Though it's still a pain if the truck has seen a lot of road salt. I had one that was stuck so bad I should have just replaced the Knuckles. It would have been cheaper labor wise.

 

[gsbrockman]

The newer hub bearings (at least on the 2013 3500’s and up with the newer frame) actually rest inside the spindle at four contact points and are not nearly as susceptible to seizing as prior years.

 

[jdross440]

Email Chrysler customer service with your VIN number and ask for a build sheet. I did this on my 2000 and 2007. I got back an email with all the information on what the trucks had when they left the factory. Took 2 days.