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Rear drum removal

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:mad: OK, I've got 2 new drums from NAPA and cant get mine off!!!! On my year and model, is there a star wheel to back the shoes off? If so, which rubber plug is it behind and which way do I spin it? Help, my truck is taken apart right now!
 
Jack both rears off the ground and apply the brakes with the drums spinning in forward and reverse. Leave one lug nut loosely on to keep the drums from rolling down the street when they break loose. Sometimes there are wire clips on a couple of lugs to hold the drums on, toss them, they are only there to keep things together on the assembly line.
 
Yes! Make sure it isn't in 4wd! You would only need to back off on the star wheel adjustor if your brakes were rubbing in the first place. Rust is all that is keeping the drums on. Make sure the parking brake is off.
 
Boy, was that easy!!! Said it before, sayin' it again: "illflem, you da man!"



Now for the bad part: the drivers' side looks fine. the passenger side is wet and ugly in the area inside the shoes... meaning, between the two shoes where all the springs are is wet. What does this mean and what do I need to do?
 
There are two reasons you can have wet shoes.

1st. Like Fireman Dave said Leaking axle seal.

2nd. Leaking wheel cylinder.



Most likely an axle seal leaking. If the wheel cylinder were leaking you would have experienced a bad brake pedal. Easiest way to now for sure, Try to hose off with water. Brake fluid will clean off with water, axle fluid will not.



Good Luck!
 
The right rear seal is notorious for leaking. I've replaced mine twice. The left one is the original and it has 181K miles on it.
 
The seal is easy to replace and is available at Napa (sorry no p/n) Make sure to use RTV sealant on the outside of the seal to prevent leakage between the seal and housing.



I've replaced lots of passenger side seals but never a drivers side. What's up with this? Something to do with road crowns? I've heard that the rear diff should hold more fluid than it does but the fill plug will not allow it.
 
leaky seal

BC, make sure that you inspect the sealing area on the axel housing. Be really careful removing the hub as not to ding up the sealing area on the dif. housing. I had an Econoline with a Dana 70 and someone dinged up th sealing area on the dif housing. It wouldn't seal so I had to put one of those micro-thin repair sleeves on. Usually when I do any full floating axel rear brakes for someone,I replace the wheel cyls. also because those brakes are such a hassel to work on and I don't want to have to get into them later to replace something that I could have replaced now. If you have the Dana 80 (stick shift), I think that they make a seal that sits solid on both the dif. housing and the hub with the seal itself having the rotating sealing area. Chris
 
my rear brakes were locking up and not releasing and my drivers side seal is the culprit:mad: I am replacing everything though because it is covered with gear oil. I also think I have a bad wheel cylinder becuse my brakes woul grab so quick and then not release???? PS can the drum come off without pulling the shaft?????
 
The drum is only held on by the wheel and lug nuts. It should just pull off with your hands. No need to remove the axle shaft. In some cases (see above) you have to apply a little force to get it loose.
 
brakes

:rolleyes: your brakes were locking up because of the axle leak, the napa seal will take care of the problem. both axles leaked on my 94, now might be a good time for 1 ton wheel cylinders if not already done. Oo.
 
Don't forget--water & brake fuid together is very corrosive

Shake??if in steering wheel when braking only--warped frt. rotor(s) if in seat when braking it is likely a problem in rear brakes
 
Did you turn the new drums before you installed them? I'm not trying to rub salt into the wounds but I'm sure glad that I have 4 whl. discs. Chris
 
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