Rear end noise Dana 70

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Need some help here. My truck just started making a howling noise in the rear end that resonates through the drive shaft. I haven't dropped the cover yet. Gear lube is due for a change anyway, and I need to install my Mag-Hytec differential cover. I'm thinking it's the pitman bearings. Noise is definitely coming from the rear end, but only under power. If I let off the gas or shift to nuetral it stops. Anything I should be looking for other than normal wear, metal shavings etc. I don't think Dodge is going to warranty this, once they see my truck. Any ideas? Thanks, -Glen



[This message has been edited by Glen Pratt (edited 12-21-2000). ]

 

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I wouldn't be surprised to find that your carrier bearings have gone bad. Mine went at about 38000 miles. The oil level with the stock cover barely lubes the bearings, especially the left one since roads normally tilt you slightly to the right. When you pull your cover, remove the bearing caps and check to see if there are signs that the bearings have spun under the caps. This indicates that the bearings have locked up with small metal particles from time to time. The caps are torqued to 85 ft. pounds when you put them back. Joe Donnelly wrote an excellent article in issue 24 of the TDR that covers this problem. The Mag-Hytec cover will prevent this problem from happening again. Good luck!

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Ron

'96 Club Cab 2500 4x4, 4:10LS, Camper/Tow package, Auto, BD Pressure Loc, Mystery Switch, TST 230/605, Cat under "Test", Cummins Chrome, Mag-Hytec rear and trans covers, Boost, Pyro and trans gauges, Optima Red Tops, All black. Tow 14k HitchHiker triple glide 5th Wheel. Also use 9. 5' Lance camper. NRA Life Member.

 

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Ron, Thanks for the info. -Glen

 

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I just had to rebuild my rear differential, the left carrier bearing spun, make sure you smooth out the shoulder the bearing race goes on and shim that side for the wear on the shoulder on the left, when you reinstall the carrier it should fit tight. Put the new cover on so this will not happen again. Before putting together clean inside of differntial good with diesel fuel, nail a rag to the end of a stick and swab the axle tubes good. Replace all bearings in differential (axle/wheel bearing too). It will cost you about $300. 00 for parts. Get your parts from a good drive/clutch place, they may not carry the wheel bearing/seals, I got mine at O'Rielly, but get the differential bearings from someone else that can get the real Dana/Spicer bearings, that way your shim spacers should work pretty close. Make sure you don't lose any shims and that you put them back where they come from. Check you gear loading after assembly. Mine is nice and quiet now. If you have not done this before you may want to get help.

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96 CC 4X4 2500 SLT AUTO transmission, PrimeLoc, ISSPRO EGT Boost transmission Temp, GUTTED CAT, 150,000+ Miles still goin' strong, Lots of Ham Radio gear, NO IGNITION NOISE!!! Love my diesel!!!

 

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Mine started making a howling noise, and I had to replace the drivers side axle bearings.

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98 QC 2500 2WD 12 Valve Automatic, 3. 54 Mag-Hytec transmission pan. No silencer ring. Wrap around black Grill Guard (BIG solid steel one. AFC controller adjusted, Mopar mud flaps, Camper package, 2001 Tow mirrors, Cat ran away, No Muff

Go Aggies!!!

 

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KB0OU, Thanks very much for the info. I just checked with a local Dodge dealer, who will check it out. He stated as long as my driveline angle is not too severe, they will probably warranty it. I might go that route. Again thanks for the info. If I end up doing it myself I have a friend who can help me. No I've never done any rear end work before. Regards, -Glen

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[This message has been edited by Glen Pratt (edited 12-21-2000). ]

 

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When pinion bearings get rough/worn, you usually get a strong vibration in coast that goes away in "drive". You might call 4 wheel parts 800-421-1050 for bearings; I have gotten good prices from them. If you want a Detroit Locker, now is the time for it since carrier or axle barings are the more likely culprit as others suggested. Another possibility is ring and pinion--either scuffed or the backlash is way out if the carrier had insufficient preload and can now slide right-and-left.

As another said, the carrier race can spin in the housing/bearing cap. If it worn in bad--check the ledge at the edge of the bearing where the cap/housing is still machined, you may have to shim or replace the housing. If only the cap is worn, you can carefully file the "feet" keeping it square. The article in #24 has a misprint--don't take 0. 005" off the cap, only 0. 0005". If you needed five thousandths, you probably would have to replace the housing. You MIGHT get away with putting in a shim around the housing bore, held in place with Loctite sleeve mount.

 

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As JD said, you can shim on the housing side of the bearing, there are shims between the bearing and the ring gear, you can adjust those shims to load the carrier properly, mine was probably not loaded properly at the factory, too loose.
Hope you can get it done under warranty, mine has 153,000+ so no warranty.
You will need proper tools to do this job so beware.

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96 CC 4X4 2500 SLT AUTO transmission, PrimeLoc, ISSPRO EGT Boost transmission Temp, GUTTED CAT, 150,000+ Miles still goin' strong, Lots of Ham Radio gear, NO IGNITION NOISE!!! Love my diesel!!!

 

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Thanks Joe & KB0OU, I appreciate the info. I'm going to pull the cover on Sunday and see what it looks like. Thanks again. Regards, -Glen

 

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Glen, while you have your rear end apart, it is a good time to consider packing your wheel bearings instead of hoping that your rear end lube will work its way in there. Some shop manuals advise packing inner & outer wheel bearings and some don't. I've been advised that packing rear wheel bearings like you would front wheel bearings on a 4x2 will give me at least double the miles in service. If you hope to rack up a lot of miles,its something to consider.

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93 Maroon/Gold D350 CC Dually,5sp,LE trim, A/C,Raven cab height w/contractor side windows, PW inj. , K&N in OEM housing w\altered added inlet, class IV receiver hitch, Maroon cloth 60/40 '97 F150 bench seat, KYB shocks,& behind the seat,not yet installed: Moog upper & lower ball joints, PST poly graphite upper & lower control arm bushings and Praise Dyno Brake pads & shoes.

 

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Mel, Thanks for the info. Gentlemen, thanks you all for the excellent tips. Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. -Glen

 

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Merry Christmas to all and to all a Happy New Year from SouthWest Missouri.

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96 CC 4X4 2500 SLT AUTO transmission, PrimeLoc, ISSPRO EGT Boost transmission Temp, GUTTED CAT, 150,000+ Miles still goin' strong, Lots of Ham Radio gear, NO IGNITION NOISE!!! Love my diesel!!! TST Fuel plate on the way, BOMBS AWAY!!!