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Rear leaf spring R&R

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Anybody have any tips or tricks on replacing the rear leaf springs on a 2001 Ram 3500 dually.
Seems the fuel tank is in the way of removing the front spring hanger.
Broke the left spring at the rear bushing. Not loaded. Been driving it since October and then it just breaks.
Bought new front and rear hangers, along with the springs. I figure I could grind the heads off from the outside if I have to.
Thanks
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You may be lucky and be able to unscrew the nut off the bolt or if no go cut the head or the nut off. Problem I ran into was the bolt would spin inside the bushing and no amount of pounding could get it to come out. Ended up having to use a torch to essentially melt the bushing away well most of it. Then torch the bolt and sleeve. That happened on two of my bolts. Good luck probably going to be a chore as Ozy mentioned but doable with enough persuasion
 
That looks just like both of my 2nd Gens after being subjected to Maine winters..

The first time I attempted rear spring bolts and shackles I wasted a day before I simply removed the body.

The next time I just removed the body first..

Makes it a whole lot easier...if you have any way to do so.

And while the body is off change the brake line that runs in behind the fuel tank...
 
First thing I would start with is a daily soaking of any fasteners with Kroil or your favorite penetrating oil with some heat to help it soak in further with a heat gun if you have the time. You might just luck out and get that nut to come off without too much trouble
 
First thing I would start with is a daily soaking of any fasteners with Kroil or your favorite penetrating oil with some heat to help it soak in further with a heat gun if you have the time. You might just luck out and get that nut to come off without too much trouble
The nut isn't the real problem - getting the bolt out of the spring bushing that is 3 inch wide rusted solid to the bolt makes the trouble.
 
The nut isn't the real problem - getting the bolt out of the spring bushing that is 3 inch wide rusted solid to the bolt makes the trouble.

Still, I would be soaking everything down with penetrating oil and allow time for it to do it's thing. It may not be a miracle solution but it surely could not hurt the situation. I did this with the brakes when I took everything apart to replace the rotors, calipers, hoses, etc. It DID make a big difference. I realize those components in the rear springs are a good bit larger but still, I would give myself every possible advantage possible. It helps to conserve curse words. :D
 
Thanks for the input guys.
Have to have this thing rolling again by Thursday night, I have Sunday and Monday to so this.
Grind the heads of the sring hanger bolts off?
Will I be able to get my hand behind the tank to put new ones on?
It figures ,the tank is full.
 
As Mike said, lift the bed. Makes things MUCH easier and it's not a big job. Pulled the bed off my daughters S10 last week to get to the top of the tank. I know it's not a Dodge dually, but it's basically the same job, just a bit bigger.

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Thanks for the input guys.
Have to have this thing rolling again by Thursday night, I have Sunday and Monday to so this.
Grind the heads of the sring hanger bolts off?
Will I be able to get my hand behind the tank to put new ones on?
It figures ,the tank is full.

What do you have for equipment??

Torches? 1/2" Drive Air Wrench? Large air supply for the air wrench??

Did you buy new shackles?? New spring eye bolts?

New U-Bolts and nuts?
 
What do you have for equipment??

Torches? 1/2" Drive Air Wrench? Large air supply for the air wrench??

Did you buy new shackles?? New spring eye bolts?

New U-Bolts and nuts?
No torch.
Yes 1/2" air gun, not a large air supply.
New Springs, shackles, front spring hangers,, spring eye bolts, u bolts and nuts.
Was not going to chance the bolts not coming out the spring bushings.
On the lower control arms on the front, the bolt with the adjuster on it won't come out of the bushing, YET.
So right now I can't change the lower control arms or adjust the caster.
 
On the front lowers you're going to have to cut them between the bracket and the arm. Get new cam bolts from a reputable supplier such as NAPA, ones I bought at the chain stores were too small diameter and I think too short...
 
That looks just like both of my 2nd Gens after being subjected to Maine winters..

The first time I attempted rear spring bolts and shackles I wasted a day before I simply removed the body.

The next time I just removed the body first..

Makes it a whole lot easier...if you have any way to do so.

And while the body is off change the brake line that runs in behind the fuel tank...
How many bolts hold the bed on?
I have a non rusted bed that has to go on anyway, so I guess its a good time. Colors don't match. But it came with the truck.
 
That looks just like both of my 2nd Gens after being subjected to Maine winters..

The first time I attempted rear spring bolts and shackles I wasted a day before I simply removed the body.

The next time I just removed the body first..

Makes it a whole lot easier...if you have any way to do so.

And while the body is off change the brake line that runs in behind the fuel tank...
I live in New York. About 90 miles north of the city. So we get to have all the salt on the roads here also.
 
If I remember correctly there are 8.

They have always come out for me, but use an air gun. Once they start out don't stop. If they stop turning on the way out switch the wrench and wind them back in. Switch wrench again and wind them out. If they stop repeat the in and out. It builds heat which helps them come out.
If you stop midway through that process and allow the bolt to cool there is a high probability that they will freeze in place and then will break off on the next attempt.
Been there, done that....

So only 8 bolts and the wiring connector on the rear to unplug.

Wear safety glasses, the crap is going to drop right in your face......
 
If I remember correctly there are 8.

They have always come out for me, but use an air gun. Once they start out don't stop. If they stop turning on the way out switch the wrench and wind them back in. Switch wrench again and wind them out. If they stop repeat the in and out. It builds heat which helps them come out.
If you stop midway through that process and allow the bolt to cool there is a high probability that they will freeze in place and then will break off on the next attempt.
Been there, done that....

So only 8 bolts and the wiring connector on the rear to unplug.

Wear safety glasses, the crap is going to drop right in your face......
Thanks for the help.
Just have to get that hitch out of the center of the bed also. Looks like two u bolts
 
If I remember correctly there are 8.

They have always come out for me, but use an air gun. Once they start out don't stop. If they stop turning on the way out switch the wrench and wind them back in. Switch wrench again and wind them out. If they stop repeat the in and out. It builds heat which helps them come out.
If you stop midway through that process and allow the bolt to cool there is a high probability that they will freeze in place and then will break off on the next attempt.
Been there, done that....

So only 8 bolts and the wiring connector on the rear to unplug.

Wear safety glasses, the crap is going to drop right in your face......
7 bolts, a couple wire connectors, fuel filler neck and tail lights . I think I had this ready to come off in less than an hour. Took longer to take my twin 102" whips and mounts off.
Yes 7 bolts. The second one I took off I broke. I didn't realize that when I set the impact gun down, after the first bolt, it switched to tighten.
 
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