Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) rear main seal troubles

[bowhunter]

When changing out the rear main, has anyone ever had trouble getting the new seal to slide onto the crankshaft?



Last night I ruined a new seal when the oil lip edge rolled over and kinked as I slid the crankshaft girdle/seal assembly on. The nylon seal pilot or installation guide does not exactly line up with the end of the crank. Combined with the very cold temperatures in my garage, this caused the seal to not stretch and slide over the end of the crankshaft. Anyone ever put a slight coat of grease on the crank to help the seal slide on without rolling or tearing?



Any suggestions?



Thanks

 

[SRadke]

I would be sure the surface of the crank is smooth where the seal has to slide and a THIN coat of grease shouldn't hurt. I never had any trouble with that. I've had them get cocked sideways a little and pound in too far but they usually slide on just fine. Sucks to ruin a $50 dollar seal doesn't it.



-Scott

 

[QRTRHRS]

NO, NO, NO. Don't grease the crank. The front and rear seals are teflon. They supposedly will seal in over time if not immediately. Grease will assure a leak. If memory serves, the seal guide is sloppy rather than a nice machined type of fit. If you ruined the seal, your going to get a new guide. See how that one fares out. First off, clean the crank up if you had not already. Mine was coated with teflon I assume and rough. I used some very fine emory to polish it up and wiped it with alcohol. (Chime in here anyone) The crank is cold so if you keep the seal warm with a quartz lamp until the last moment, the cold garage should only make you uncomfortable not the truck.

 

[mstimac]

Like QTHRHRS said. Heat the seal before you install it. Keep in the house until ready. You could even go so far as to to put it in some really hot water for a short period then dry and install.

 

[A Johnson]

The last seal I bought (from Cummins parts) the plastic installation guide was much improved, heavier duty, and the inside of it had a step that stopped at the end of the crank shaft. This seal was much , much easier to install than previous designs. Good luck, and stay away from the grease on the crank.



A Johnson

 

[jimk]

seal

Originally posted by QRTRHRS

NO, NO, NO. Don't grease the crank. The front and rear seals are teflon. They supposedly will seal in over time if not immediately. Grease will assure a leak. If memory serves, the seal guide is sloppy rather than a nice machined type of fit. If you ruined the seal, your going to get a new guide. See how that one fares out. First off, clean the crank up if you had not already. Mine was coated with teflon I assume and rough. I used some very fine emory to polish it up and wiped it with alcohol. (Chime in here anyone) The crank is cold so if you keep the seal warm with a quartz lamp until the last moment, the cold garage should only make you uncomfortable not the truck.

You are right about the seal . The Teflon is deposited on the crank. If you grease the crank that wont happen. I have used the teflon seals many times on the v12 cummins used in the 380b wheel dozer. lol Jim

 

[bowhunter]

Seal is in. Heat and a homemade puller is all it took.



The new southbend 13. 125 OFE is in. I'll keep eveyone informed as to how it holds up.



I had to replace the 12" 0090 OFE since the the center hub ripped out. The 0090 was in great shape, the clutch face looked almost new.



Peter @ Southbend was more than helpful. He says the new 13. 125 OFE will hold the HP/torque.



Thanks



Kurt