2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear rotors 2002, how do you get the hub off?

[rweis]

I need to do the rear brakes and want to have the rear rotors turned 2002 dually.



I have the tires off,

I have the calipers off,

I have the axle out (anything special about getting it back in?)

I see a little metal U shape nut keeper on a LARGE nut and can get the little metal keeper out,



Now What?



Do I need to get the LARGE nut out? if so what size? what about preload I would assume on the bearings? I can see the large roller bearings.



Sure could use a hand, all the SM says is "take the hub assembly off"



Bob Weis

 

[KHelfrich]

i dont think you need to pull the hud to get the rotor off i think the o2 have floating rotors and you just have to unbolt the dually spacer and the roter should just come off i know i dont have to pull the hub to take off the rotor on the 02 SRW D80 that is going in my truck



ken

 

[KDoerr]

Good Day Yes you have to pull off the big nut to pull off the rotor



The Pre-load on the bearing is 150-ft and the size is of the nut is 2 1/2 and it is not a normal socket but you can make it work.



Make sure to get new keepers for the nuts.



Good Luck

Keith

 

[rweis]

Ok, I kind of revese engineered the rear alxe nut retaining device and torque.



Now this is the REAR nut on a Dana 80.



There was a little U shaped keeper in the axle keyway that was pushed into about 3 nylon threads that are part of the axle nut outer threads.



I got the U shaped keeper out without damage. Then I measured the nut which was a 2 9/16". Got a 1/2 drive 2 9/16" socket from the (real) auto parts store. Then I took my torque wrench and started at 120 " # (inch pounds) and tried to unscrew the nut. I increased the torque until it broke loose at 245 " # or about 20 ft #.



This is WRONG. The preload should be 120 - 140 FOOT #



SM pp Rear Axle 286RBI 3-133



The nut came off just fine. The rear hub and bearing assembly and the rotor that is bolted to same came off just fine. A little heavy, but can be gently eased off without tearing the seals. The outer bearing will fall out as you take the assembly and rotor off the axle.



I took the assembly to the machine shop and they said they could turn the rotor but would have to take out the seal to do so. I ordered 2 new seals (one for each side) for the re assembly after the rotor is turned. They turned the rotor and also turned the strip inside the rotor where the emergency brake shoes ride when applied. The machine shop checked the bearings and found DC assembles the seal with a putty type compound to seat it. The putty compound reminants would have found their way into the inner bearing so they washed the whole assembly and got all the putty residue out, cleaned the inner bearing, installed it, and put the new seal in place.



I picked up the assemblies and took them home for mounting. They fit perfectly on the axle shaft, I put the outer bearing into its race and started the outer nut on. I torqued it to 240 inch pounds and the previous cut where the nut keeper went was right at the keyway.



This is WRONG see above. It also says to NOT use the same cut in the nylon part of the nut.



That leads me to believe the 20 ft # is the right preload for the bearings.



I would like confirmation from someone else though since preload is critical.



The whole assembly seemed tight, no inner to outer play and smooth rotation around the axis. It did not seem to be binding at all.



I got one side of the axle all done with pads etc and then afternoon rains hit. I will finish the other side tommorrow.



I would like comments on the preload for the bearings though.



Bob Weis

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

On a side note, WHY are you needing to pull your rotors?



You surely don't have enough miles on the truck to be replacing pads and turning rotors already?

 

[jpickens]

I take it duallies are different than single rear wheel? I didn't have to pull the hub to take off my D80 rear rotors...

Of course mines an 01

 

[rweis]

Gary,



Because the damn OEM pads squeak, and have squeaked for 3 years now, and I have a couple of days off and have the opportunity to get rid of the damn squeak every time you apply the brakes. The rear pads were only about 1/2 worn.



I replaced the front pads about 2k miles ago and the new pads killed the squeak in the front pads. That was a test for the new pads up front, and the front pads were about 3/4 worn.



The rear rotors were barely scored. They only removed a few thousands to resurface them.



I finally found the torque value for the preload on the axle bearings - 120 - 140 FOOT #. I'll have to go back and redo that as I only have about 25 FOOT # on mine.



Seems like a large pre-load, but Sm pp Rear Axle 286RBI 3-133 has the assembly procedures. Oh, and you DO NOT use the same cut in the nylon outer part of the bearing preload nut. You recut a new place.



Live and learn,



Bob Weis

 

[trqmnstr]

Bob, I have a buddy that lives in Winter Haven so I'm down there sometimes. I was wondering if there are any meets around your neck of the woods. There aren't too many modded CTDs around here and there definitely aren't any meets. I'd like to see what a really bad ***** Cummins is all about. Let me know. Thanks Clay

 

[ata]

Hub Bearing Preload, Torque 2 9/16 nut to 120-140 ft lbs then back off 1/8 turn. This should give you . 001 to . 010 end play.

 

[FMcClaren]

In the last 2 weeks i changed my rear pads (01) and helped R-N-R

change his (02). On both trucks the pads rotted off the metal backing

plate. When you check your brakes pull the wheel and take a good look.

Frank

 

[jpickens]

The reason I had to replace my rear pads for the first time at ~90k was because they were falling off the backing plates as well. Must have been more than 1/4" of pad left... My fronts lasted till 83k but legitimately needed replaced etc.



Josh