Rear seal replacement question?

[Pit Bull]

Can someone tell me what needs to be replaced when a rear seal goes out? (example, rear brakes, other rear seal, all of the rear end fluid) One of the above or all of the above? Also what causes a rear seal to go out and what do you do to prevent it from happening in the future? Also what should this cost?



I have a 4. 10 LSD Dana 80.

Thanks

 

[Steve Campbell]

This will probably attract some dissenters...

What makes a rear wheel seal go out (prematurely). IMO, either run too loose (90% of the time in my experience) surrounding parts got too hot and "melted" the seal. Then there is just plain old age or old age.



I have changed more wheel seals from being too loose than any other reason. Usually it was my fault for not setting the bearings tight enough when I was first learning. I would just clean up all of the parts, steam off the brake shoes and reassemble with a new seal. I have read a lot of opinions that the brake shoes should also be changed and if you are hiring someone to do the repair, probably so.



With the axle still in the hub, you can not feel the play in the bearing assembly. If one side has a leak, while you are repairing it, jack the other side up, remove the axle shaft and feel it for play. My guess is you will find some on that side also. You only have to "pull" out the lock clip, tighten the "nylock" nut JUST BARELY enough (usually less than one flat of the nut) to take the play out and then "tap" the lock back into place.



Hope that helped.

 

[Pit Bull]

Thanks for the reply Steve

My seal is still under warranty (Dodge 5year 100K bumper to bumper). I think the dealer was piling on. They wanted to charge me for new rear brakes $325, new right side seal $100 and new fluid in the full floating Dana 80, another $150, for a grand total of $575 plus the $50 warranty deductable so I would be out $625 WOW. This warranty sucks. I told them just to fix the seal under warranty, that will cost me the $50 warranty deductable and I am taking it to another independant garage that I know and they will put on new brakes, replace the other seal and change the fluid in the rear for $250. I save $325. Because of this experence, the dealer has lost most of my future business except warranty work. Why is Dodge and their dealers so stupid? I will still use this dealer, but in the future I will shop them hard on price, since they have proven they aren't doing me any favors

 

[Texas Diesel]

Re: This will probably attract some dissenters...

Originally posted by Steve Campbell



I You only have to "pull" out the lock clip, tighten the "nylock" nut JUST BARELY enough (usually less than one flat of the nut) to take the play out and then "tap" the lock back into place.

This is very interesting, I have the Dana .pdf file for the model 80 diff. The .pdf (Adobe) file is from Dana Inc and has all the parts numbers, available shims, specs etc. My question is this: I think I can see what you are getting at and if I emailed the Dana 80 file to you would you look at it and tell me what page and part number you are refering to? It has long puzzled me why these seals go out. The 80's used in 3/4 ton Rams are sort of a hybrid but the diagram is the same as a "normal" 80.



I'll send the file to anyone else who wants it. -- email address removed --

I'm leaving today and wont be back till Sunday.