2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear Wheel Brakes or Lack Of

[Bob Kottre]

Have a Quad cab with 55k miles on it and am needing to istall the third set of front brake pads. . On checking the rear brake lining I find minimum wear. I do tow a 23 trvl trl and with the equallizer hitch puts very little wt on rear axle of truck.
When applying brakes on snow or ice, seems like the trl brakes are doing thir thing and the truck front brakes want to lock up and that makes for zip nadda steering. .
I have checked the rear wheel cylinders and they are one and one sixteenth dia same as on the 3500 trucks so changing them out won't do any good.
After checking out the Dodge service manual it tells of a height sensing valve which is mounted on left fram above rear axel connected with about a 14" link to the base of the L/rear shock. according the the manual when a load is loaded on truck the link pushes the arm up on the valve allowing more pressure to the rear wheel cylinders. .
My question is this... . Has anyone ever faked this thing out by splicing in an inch or two on this rod/link making the valve think there is some load on truck thus allowing more pressure to the rear whell cylinders... This valve is factory sealed and there is no adjustment for it according the the maint manual
Thanks in advance for any info on this


------------------

 

[Diesel Junkie]

You need to manually adjust them from time to time. (when changing oil). This is common to most rear drums and more so due to the weight of our trucks. if you look in arcives you will find a wealth of info on the subject.

------------------
'01 3500 qc 5sp, 4x4 white w/ green graphics dark tint, flaps,K&N 0880 and pre filter, tonneau,painless, Uniden Grant LT w/3' glass K-40,aux. back up lights,
'91 Regal 260 at Dale Hollow

 

[Bob Kottre]

Originally posted by scottaxline:
You need to manually adjust them from time to time. (when changing oil). This is common to most rear drums and more so due to the weight of our trucks. if you look in arcives you will find a wealth of info on the subject.

Scottaxline.
Thnks for your input. In my prior post I forgot to mention that I keep anti seize on the adjusters and they do work,,
As you correctly mentioned I do check them every time I change oil and can only get three clicks max befor the shoes start to drag on the drum

 

[sam peterson]

if you think you need more pressure to the rear you can use a cylinder with 1 1/8 or 1 3/16 bore size. The same rear brake size is used in GM trucks and they use a larger bore. I just did a upgrade to the 1 3/16 on my 3500 today with carbo-met shoes and there is no comparison in stopping power--need to no more info--let me know----Sam

 

[David Oxland]

Ditto for me and the rear wheel seal; had lock up on the right rear at light application of pedal

 

[David_VT]

Another thought, but the symptoms might be a bit different.

My rear axle seals had to be replaced (rears were locking up on ice).

Now the front seals are on order... Dealer hinted that he has seem alot of this!!

 

[Alan Reagan]

Bob, I adjusted my 01 (24K miles) after pulling the drums. They were barely scuffed. I lubed the adjusters. That seemed to take care of the problem. Stops fast with just slight application of the pedal. I think the adjusters are working right now cause when I backed out of my long driveway yesterday, I pressed hard came to a quick stop and could tell a difference immediately.

------------------
2001 HO 6 spd 2500, 4. 10 LSD, Towing Package, Electric Brakes, SPA EGT/Boost Gauges, Fog Lights, Real Backup Lights, Molded Running Boards

 

[fortunate1]

I just adjusted my rear brakes yesterday, and noticed quite a bit of improvement in overall braking. I think that now the fronts aren't doing all the work. I've also heard of people installing the rear cylinders from the one-ton 3500 model in their 2500's for better braking performance.

------------------
95 2500 SLT, clubcab, 2wd, longbed, a/t, 3. 54, 145K miles, "all the usual refinements"

 

[Bob Cochran]

Reading the posts something just occurred to me!! #ad
Could the reason the back brakes are not working and the pads wearing so fast be "the brake balance between front and rear is wrong"? I know the other problems with pulliing and rears not adjusting is a problem but are we missing something? Can balance front to rear be adjusted? Am I all wet? inquiring minds want to know!! #ad



------------------
2001 RAM 3500 dually Quad Cab SLT, 4. 10 limited slip, HO 245 hp, 6-speed, dark garnet pearl coat, interior agate, All options except heated leather, added DeeZee brite diamond tool box, Linex spray-in bed liner, Lund hood deflector 3 piece smoke color, DeeZee brite diamond cab/bed running boards and TurboSaver (from Gino's) also Reese 5th wheel 15k hitch. No plans to bomb. This is my retirment vehicle currently pulling 21' 5er want to buy 30 to 35 for retirment.

 

[sam peterson]

brake balance--front to rear can't be adjusted---at least without doing some modification from stock. The way to get better brake balance is by increasing rear wheel cylinder bore size. A different friction shoe can also help a bunch. My truck is adjustable between empty and loaded but is something I built myself.

 

[-Alex-]

Bob
In reply to your original question, I have not heard of anyone faking out this valve. Faking it out would have the effect of proportioning the front/rear. I have thought of this also, as my airbags compensate for load to keep truck level, thus my rear brakes "think" I have no load. My plan was to cut the linkage and weld a turnbuckle so that it could be adjusted.

 

[Ram_Kowboy]

Alaska Bob...
If the rear brakes are well adjusted as you have indicated, maybe there is another place to look. What type of brake pads are you using on the front? I know some manufacture's use softer material for quieter brakes. I would just suggest maybe trying another brand. See if there is any improvement in wear. Be careful though, the opposite effect can be long wearing pads, worn out rotors. Major brand names are your best bet. I got 62,000 miles out of the OEM brake pads. The second set of pads were Raybestos. I got almost 50k out of them. Although they squeeked alot. My current set are OEM, I figured they wore well and were only about $10 more than a good set of aftermarkets.
Regards,
RK

------------------
98 Properly Valved 4x4 SWB QC ISB A/T Metallic Red w/ tan cloth interior, DC nerf bars, DC two piece mud-flaps, 275 h. p. injectors, Monroe Gas Magnums, Armor Tuff spray in bed liner, Goodyear Wrangler ATS 285/75r/16, BD Heavy Duty Valve body. Walker 21468 thru flow muffler,Cobra 29 NWST CB. American Racing Wheels. Power Edge EZ control module.

 

[Old Account - 243]

Alaska Bob,

The HSPV supplies around 75% pressure until a load opens the valve at which point, the brakes are supplied 100% pressure. I do not remember the valve being described as a variable valve but check the FSM again.

I faked it by removing it from the lower ball stud and zip-tying it in the position which simulated a load. I don't remember if it was up or down.

I test drove it and had no problem locking the rear brakes with a just a little pedal pressure. I won't be doing that again.

There is a pressure differential switch next to the PDC and the FSM lists another valve (proportioning type) but I cannot find it on the truck or in any other section in the book.

Ditto on adjusting the rear brakes... once a week or every 500 miles, whichever comes first... at least on my truck anyway.

243

------------------
99 QC 2500 ST 4X4 SB 24V/5speed 3. 54/LSD Driftwood/Agate
Walker 21468, VDO, Bridgestone 285/75/16 MT's, RS9000's, Hella 500's

http://www.0hassleisp.com/dwilk/243'sRamPage.html

-- email address removed --

 

[AHughes]

Alex, Good idea with the turnbuckle and that's what I was going to do to adjust the length of the rod to fake out the load sensor but after removing the link rod and the nut off the perportioning valve and taking off the link arm off the valve I found it has multiple splines and can be adjusted but removing and turning the valve counterclockwise and reinstalling the link arm on the valve. I marked the original position so I could go back to it if needed. I rotated the valve about 1/4 turn counterclockwise and it really improved the brake bias. I've hotroded and I know they make adjustable perportioning valves (I had one on my '34 ford) and could by turning a knurled knob adjust the bias front to rear. Can't we install something like that too? Hope you find this helpful.

 

[DODGEDADDIE]

"GOOD IDEA"....

HELLO ALL... .

Good feed back (AHughes & Bob Kottre),,,,,,,,

As I too have those sucky break problems... . An have ALL READY DONE. . all the OTHER hints.



I'll try this valve trick. . and let you all know toooooooo





THANKS... . (lets keep these idea's coming)





Mike In Maine

 

[Palahniuk]

Back when my truck was under warranty and I complained bout poor braking on my '99' and the 4th trip to the dealer they disconnected the rear brake limiter. I had excellent brakes after that, you could really tell the difference.

 

[nbr1trucker]

how do you disconnect this, where is it located and can i do it myself? thanks Ian