Attention: TDR Forum Junkies Getrag rebuild
Disassembly
1) Use a proper transmission jack to remove the beast, it is heavy... a harbor freight transmission jack adapter is a very poor substitute.
2) Use a gasket for the top cover and anaerobic gasket sealer for in/output housings. RTV will work but you must make sure that it doesn't ooze inside of the gear case.
3) Inspect the color of the old transmission oil, if it has a silver or milky cast to it, carefully check the shifter forks for wear. If your shift lever springs back towards the center position, after completing a gear change the associated shift fork is probably worn.
4) When changing the shifter forks; spin the fork rails 90° after the roll pins are removed from the fork, this will allow the rails to slide past the detents easily. Also be careful of the rail interlock pins, so you don't lose them.
5) Three different types of snap ring plyers will be needed, regular type, heavy threaded style and the flat parallel kind.
6) Save the old bearings & cones these will make great press tools. Just remove the rollers & cage, then hone out the bore of the bearing until it slips onto the appropriate shaft. Use a 60 grit flap wheel to do the honing.
7) Don't disassemble the synchronizers! they have 3 small springs, 3 struts, 3 tiny bearing balls & are a supreme pain to reassemble. That is if you can find the parts when they fly apart. Mark the 3/4 synchro so that it can go back on the way it came off (which side was up?)
Reassemble:
1) Don't use grease to hold small parts or shims in place, use only vaseline, the grease can plug up the oiling passages.
2) Get a PTO filter; it is the only thing that saved my transmission from detonation, even though it was missing 7 teeth from the cluster gear & the oil was full of aluminum filings from the 3/4 shift fork. IMHO
3) While it is apart, have a raised oil fill port installed in the other PTO cover (makes over fill easier)
Disassembly
1) Use a proper transmission jack to remove the beast, it is heavy... a harbor freight transmission jack adapter is a very poor substitute.
2) Use a gasket for the top cover and anaerobic gasket sealer for in/output housings. RTV will work but you must make sure that it doesn't ooze inside of the gear case.
3) Inspect the color of the old transmission oil, if it has a silver or milky cast to it, carefully check the shifter forks for wear. If your shift lever springs back towards the center position, after completing a gear change the associated shift fork is probably worn.
4) When changing the shifter forks; spin the fork rails 90° after the roll pins are removed from the fork, this will allow the rails to slide past the detents easily. Also be careful of the rail interlock pins, so you don't lose them.
5) Three different types of snap ring plyers will be needed, regular type, heavy threaded style and the flat parallel kind.
6) Save the old bearings & cones these will make great press tools. Just remove the rollers & cage, then hone out the bore of the bearing until it slips onto the appropriate shaft. Use a 60 grit flap wheel to do the honing.
7) Don't disassemble the synchronizers! they have 3 small springs, 3 struts, 3 tiny bearing balls & are a supreme pain to reassemble. That is if you can find the parts when they fly apart. Mark the 3/4 synchro so that it can go back on the way it came off (which side was up?)
Reassemble:
1) Don't use grease to hold small parts or shims in place, use only vaseline, the grease can plug up the oiling passages.
2) Get a PTO filter; it is the only thing that saved my transmission from detonation, even though it was missing 7 teeth from the cluster gear & the oil was full of aluminum filings from the 3/4 shift fork. IMHO
3) While it is apart, have a raised oil fill port installed in the other PTO cover (makes over fill easier)
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