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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rebuilt HVAC and no tempature control

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) oil

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Hello All,

I rebuilt my HVAC, 01 2500QC 4X4 Auto, replaced heater core, blower motor resistor, blower motor, evaporator, and no I only have full hot or full cold.

I saw on YouTube a calibration procedure for the tempature controlin the minivans, is there one for our trucks?



Thanks

Brian
 
No calibration needed

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VACUUM SYSTEM
Vacuum control is used to operate the mode doors in the heater-only and HVAC housings. Testing of the heater-only and a/c heater mode control switch operation will determine if the vacuum, electrical, and mechanical controls are functioning. However, it is possible that a vacuum control system that operates perfectly at engine idle (high engine vacuum) may not function properly at high engine speeds or loads (low engine vacuum). This can be caused by leaks in the vacuum system, or by a faulty or improperly installed vacuum check valve.

A vacuum system test will help to identify the source of poor vacuum system performance or vacuum system leaks. Before starting this test, stop the engine and make certain that the problem is not a disconnected vacuum supply tube at the engine vacuum source or the vacuum reservoir.

Use an adjustable vacuum test set (Special Tool C-3707) and a suitable vacuum pump to test the HVAC vacuum control system. With a finger placed over the end of the vacuum test hose probe (ADJUST VACUUM TEST BLEED VALVE), adjust the bleed valve on the test set gauge to obtain a vacuum of exactly 27 kPa (8 in. Hg. ). Release and block the end of the probe several times to verify that the vacuum reading returns to the exact 27 kPa (8 in. Hg. ) setting. Otherwise, a false reading will be obtained during testing.

VACUUM CHECK VALVE
Remove the vacuum check valve. On gasoline engines, one valve is located in the vacuum supply tube (black) at the intake manifold tap on the right side of the engine. A second check valve is located next to the tee fitting in the vacuum supply tube (black) near the dash panel in the engine compartment. On diesel engines, the vacuum check valve is integral to the engine vacuum pump nipple and is threaded into the vacuum pump. The vacuum check valve must be removed in order to perform the following tests. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CONTROLS/VACUUM CHECK VALVE - REMOVAL)
Connect the test set vacuum supply hose to the a/c heater control side of the valve. When connected to this side of the check valve, no vacuum should pass and the test set gauge should return to the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg. ) setting. If OK, go to step Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty valve.
Connect the test set vacuum supply hose to the engine vacuum side of the valve. When connected to this side of the check valve, vacuum should flow through the valve without restriction. If not OK, replace the faulty valve.
A/C HEATER CONTROLS
Connect the test set vacuum probe to the HVAC vacuum supply (black) tube in the engine compartment. Position the test set gauge so that it can be viewed from the passenger compartment.
Place the a/c heater mode control switch knob to each mode position, one position at a time, and pause after each selection. The test set gauge should return to the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg. ) setting shortly after each selection is made. If not OK, a component or vacuum line in the vacuum circuit of the selected mode has a leak. See Locating Vacuum Leaks below.
CAUTION: Do not use lubricant on the switch ports or in the holes in the plug, as lubricant will ruin the vacuum valve in the switch. A drop of clean water in the connector plug holes will help the connector slide onto the switch ports.

LOCATING VACUUM LEAKS
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.

Disconnect the vacuum harness connector located between the a/c heater control and the HVAC housing under the instrument panel.
Connect the test set vacuum hose probe to each port in the HVAC housing half of the vacuum harness connector, one port at a time, and pause after each connection (VACUUM CIRCUIT TEST). The test set gauge should return to the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg. ) setting shortly after each connection is made. If OK, replace the faulty a/c heater control. If not OK, go to step Step 3.
Determine the vacuum line color of the vacuum circuit that is leaking. To determine the vacuum line colors, see the Vacuum Circuits chart (VACUUM CIRCUIT).
Disconnect and plug the vacuum line from the component (fitting, actuator, valve, switch, or reservoir) on the other end of the leaking circuit. Instrument panel disassembly or removal may be necessary to gain access to some components. Refer to Instrument Panel System for the procedures.
Connect the test set hose or probe to the open end of the leaking circuit. The test set gauge should return to the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg. ) setting shortly after each connection is made. If OK, replace the faulty disconnected component. If not OK, go to Step 6.
To locate a leak in a vacuum line, leave one end of the line plugged and connect the test set hose or probe to the other end of the line. Run your fingers slowly along the line while watching the test set gauge. The vacuum reading will fluctuate when your fingers contact the source of the leak. To repair the vacuum line, cut out the leaking section of the line. Then, insert the loose ends of the line into a suitable length of 3 millimeter (0. 125 inch) inside diameter rubber ho
 
Bob,

Thanks for the reply.

On my truck the blend door is controlled by an electric motor. The only vacuum controll is for the the fresh/recirc air and the for the for the floor duct vent.
so I am not sure what to do next.
Brian
 
the blend door could be jammed. when you put the heater/AC box back together, did you carefully align the box before screwing it back together? There is an AC blend door control motor that moves the blend door back and forth. It could have failed. On the 2nd gens, it is a $130-$150 part (on the 3rd gens it is about $30). This blend door motor could have failed. If you look closely at it, it is built by Lucas (which explains the failure, there electronics suck).

If you are getting hot and cold, just not a blend, then the motor is turning the blend door, it is just not rotating it in increments. Have you tried to cycle from hot to cold a number of times? It is possible the motor has lost its mind, and will need replaced. I am fairly certain that you can replace this motor without pulling the world apart, but I can't remember.
 
Yes, I havve cycled the temp switch several times and still full hot or full cold. I dont think the door is the issue as I do have full hot or full cold. The dealership said that it must be the blower motor resistor switch. I did not see in the wiring diagrams how the resistor would affect the temp selector. HOWEVER, Just after that conversation with ther dealership my blower motor resistor went out. I think they put a hex on my truck. So I replaced the resistor and still have the same problem.
 
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