Rebuilt Now Tick

[holmanrd]

Hey guys, I really need some help.
I rebuilt my 97 due to a bottom end knock right about #5-#6 bearings.
New rings, bearings, seals, new injectors, new overflow valve, reground cam and matched tappets.
Got it all back together, did my cam break in and started down the road to set my rings.
Noticed some valvetrain tick so headed home.
Reset valve lash and started her back up. Tick still there.
Rechecked TDC balancer mark, cam pin and injection pump all lined up & double checked #1 by #6 cross over method.
Reset valve lash still have tick.
Isolated it to #1 with a stethoscope.
Pulled the valve covers and started it up and it is #1 intake valve. While running I can put some pressure on the end or the rocker and it stops.
When the head was off I checked all the pushrods, and valves for straightness. All springs still in one piece. Lightly lapped the valves & seats, have good seat depth.
What am I missing?
Please any ideas?

 

[dieselshadow]

Have you checked the mechanical fuel pump? Mine made a ticking sound like that for ever.

 

[holmanrd]

dieselshadow, Thank you, I forgot to add, new lift pump also.
Plus the ticking stop when I put a little pressure on the end of the #1 intake rocker.

 

[dieselshadow]

Are you sure you adjusted that valve on the base circle?

 

[holmanrd]

Not sure what you mean by base circle?
Ball end of rocker seated in the pushrod cup? Yes

 

[dieselshadow]

You said you followed the cross-over method, but how did you verify TDC? Without knowing you’re on TDC, you could be adjusting the valves while you’re on the edge of the ramp, not the base circle of the cam. This is very apparent if you managed to adjust the valves when you’re between exhaust and intake strokes even at TDC. The procedure makes you adjust the valves knowing they are on the base circle. But the only way to do it right is to know you’re on TDC on the #1 cylinder.

I’m sorry, my post isn’t meant to say you didn’t do it right, just to point out to those who may read this as to why it’s done the way it is.

I made and installed a pointer on the balancer and found TDC by running the intake valve adjuster down. Carefully rotate the engine forwards until it contacts the piston, mark the balancer. Then rotate backwards until contact, mark the balancer. Split the difference between the two marks and you’ve found TDC. To determine if you’re on the compression stroke is easy, just watch the valves while paying attention to your new mark and pointer on the balancer.

 

[holmanrd]

Gotcha.
The cross over was more a double check after looking at my balancer mark.
Before head was installed I bolted a plate to the block and made a pointer, and ran the piston up from both sides and marked balancer to double check the mark I already had on the balancer and pan.

 

[dieselshadow]

How much did the #1 intake valve adjust up to?

Any metal in the oil filter?

I’m kinda leaning towards looking at the tappet(s) and see if it broke in ok.

 

[holmanrd]

Have not pulled the filter yet. Only at 52 miles after cam breaking and trying to seat the rings so I was hoping to get 250-300 miles before I do my initial change. Guess I may have to step up that timeline.

I think first I will head out to the shop and yank out the push rod to make sure I didn't bend it on final assembly.

 

[dieselshadow]

You can always just pull the filter and cut it open. No need to drop the oil just yet.

 

[holmanrd]

Will do that nest if the pushrod checks out ok.
Thank you, I appreciate the help.

 

[GAmes]

Plus the ticking stop when I put a little pressure on the end of the #1 intake rocker.

You could fairly easily swap the rocker assemblies to the #2 piston to see if the noise moves with it

 

[holmanrd]

Pulled the tower and pushrod is straight, rocker face and adjuster ball are good and rockers have no slop.
Was going to switch it with #2 tower and lifters but figured I would try it for kicks.
Put the tower back on, verified valve lash and started it up. Don't know why but now the darn thing sounds like the rest of the rockers.
Nothing done different but now it is not making the same level of clack. Going to put some more ring break in miles on it and see what happens. Will update if things change or if it has been cleared up.
Maybe I am just being paranoid since it's my first Cummins rebuild.

 

[holmanrd]

Hello gents, I’m back.
So right about 500 miles on this rebuild and I am as confused as ever.
#1 & #6 rockers still clacking to beat all. 2, 3, 4 & 5 sound normal. (Well 12V normal)
Switched rocker tower and click stays at #1 & #6. Sound pinpointed with stethoscope.
Called and talked to Delta camshaft some more about my specific grind and they said some need to have lash adjusted tighter.
I now have all Intake at .008 and Exhaust at .016. Don’t know if I should go any tighter than there.
Cut open oil filter and it looks great, only a couple very small slivers. Sent oil in for analysis and the report came back excellent.
No exhaust leaks found. Pushed on LP primer, not it. Stethoscope on OFV, not it.

Will be pulling injectors tonight to look for consistency of tip soot.

Would an issue with my IP translate directly to rockers clicking?

What are the symptoms of bad delivery valves?

Maybe my truck does not like the “RV” grind on my cam.

 

[holmanrd]

Ran the truck in the shop last night for a good while with the rocker covers off.
I am getting quit a bit of oil bubbling from under the heads of my rocker pedestal bolts. The larger head bolt ones.
I was under the impression the bolt sealed tight to force the oil out to the rockers.
Should oil be coming from under the bolts?