2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Recommended alignment specs???

[MattTaylor]

I need to get my truck aligned since I put my 2" lift on. I typically drive it unloaded, but 20% of the time have a 9K trailer and a truck camper on it. It's a 2001 4x4 ext. cab.



Should I use the factory specs or have people found better settings?

 

[Dave M]

Factory spec are too wide. Here is a copy of Brents specs which are commoly used here:

Alignment programs (and service manuals I believe), give a wide acceptable range for front caster on the 4x4 Rams. I believe the range is 2 degrees to 5 degrees (if that's not correct, it's pretty close). The problem occurs when the alignment tech (independent or dealer) tells you that the measurements "checked out fine", just because they were in this broad range of acceptance.



Caster readings that fall on either end of the scale are subject to caster shimmy, even though they are "acceptable". I had to align some 30 trucks and attend a 9 hour "Dodge Ram Chassis Dynamics Diagnostics" training session (fancy name, ehh?), before finding out that 3 degrees to 4 degrees is the optimal caster setting for 4x4 Rams that eliminates caster shimmy. Below I will post what specifications I set Ram trucks to.



First I want to give a little more info on correct Ram alignments so you can see if you had a job well done. The eccentrics on the lower control arms ARE NOT for individual wheel caster adjustments (even though our alignment machine says they are). The eccentric sleeves in the upper ball joints are for adjusting individual camber and total cross caster (difference in caster between two front wheels). This is why replacement eccentrics are positionable in eight different ways.



Once camber and cross caster are attained with the eccentrics, the lower control arm eccentrics are then used to swing the caster readings into specifications. The two eccentrics must be swung in the SAME direction in EQUAL amounts. If they are not, it will create a setback condition (one front wheel further forward than the other).



FYI - Comparing between the two front wheels, caster will cause a pull to the smaller value and camber will cause a pull to the larger value. A truck set up with caster pulling in one direction and camber pulling in the other direction, can lead to a wandering truck; even though it is "in specifications"!!!!!!



If the eccentrics on the lower control arms of your truck are not pointing the same direction, the alignment was done incorrectly and the axle was "twisted" or "forced" into position to attain the acceptable values (seen them from the factory this way, go figure).



A correct alignment will set the truck up with a slight negative cross caster (truck has slight pull to left) to compensate for right

hand road crown. Camber will be equal side to side slightly on the negative side. This will help maintain acceptable camber when hauling heavy loads, as the truck tends to lift in the front when towing. Camber will then fall slightly positive when towing.



Just because the alignment shop says "it's in specifications", that does not mean it is set up for proper performance and handling!!!!!!!!!



Specifications (my personal settings for every Ram I align): all specs

below are in degrees.



----------------- Left Wheel---------------Right Wheel

Caster--------------3. 2----------------------- 3. 5

Cross Caster-------------------0. 3

Camber ------------0. 10----------------------0. 10

Cross Camber -----------------0. 0



Toe - standard specs, (maybe a little out if you tow a lot, they will

pull in as the front end lifts up).

Brent

ASE Certified

Gold Certified Chrysler tech

The Toe specs, according to much I have read and my personal alignment problems, should be as close to zero as possible to avoid front tire wear. Also try for 3. 5-4. 5+ caster is best for our trucks.



Do a search on alignment and you will find lots to read.

 

[Dave M]

Here are results of a particularly stubborn right front tire wear I had and the alignment specs before and after... ... notice the Toe was zero after the alignment... that fixed my right front tie wear... . they also changed the offset cylinder thingy in the steering knuckle/ball joint to get the correct caster/camber:

The alignment shop said the trucks camber was in spec (barely) but that the spec is so wide it could still cause problems. Everything in the front end was tight according to them. They removed a offset cylinder thing on the right front knuckle and replaced it to change and make the camber more negative to compenstae for the tire wear. This adjustment required replacement of the offset sleeve (cylinder) which changes both the caster and the camber so it takes longer to get all the specs set. After 4 months it appears to have corrected my problem. I requested they keep the caster between +3. 5 - +4. 5 deg, as recommend on this site, to correct for "death wobble".



Here are the alignment spec's the shop took before and after the camber change:



Before:

Camber: Left= +0. 0 deg Right=+0. 2 deg

Caster: Left= +3. 5 Right=+4. 2

Toe: Left=+1/16" Right=+2/16"



After:

Camber: Left=+0. 0 deg Right= -0. 5 deg

Caster: Left= +3. 5 Right=+4. 1

Toe: Left=+0/16" Right=+0/16"



The alignment shop said since doing the adjustment at the right front knuckle affects both both camber and caster it took 1 1/2 - 2 hours to do. That was 3 months ago and the tires still show no signs of the outside edge wear I had before.



Prior to this a new BFG KO 245/75/R16-E was ruined in less than that time. I ruined almost 3 tires out of the 6 new ones I put on last July (about 30K miles ago). After this last alignment by a reputable alignment/frame specialist I took my truck back after about 6 weeks cause it appeared the left front tire was now showing outside edge wear. They checked everything again but they said everything was OK. I guess I was getting real sensitive to this issue and maybe over-reacted regarding seeing the left tire wear. I rotated the tires so many times it may have had the wear from before the fix. I'm keeping an eye on it.



I found this shop by calling a 4X4 parts/accessories shop and asking for a good alignment shop. They said they do 4X4 alignments but when I explained all the problems I'd been having, he referred me to a frame shop that they use for problem alignments like mine and all the dealers send their problem front ends to this guy also. This shop charged me $130 to fix it and said they back up their work. If anything is wrong he said bring it back and they would fix it for free.



The alignment shop said that the tire shop (a well known chain that I go to all the time for tires) did align it to specs but they just don't know how to correct it for problems. All they do is get it in spec with their fancy laser alignment machine but this guy did it the old fashion way... no fancy alignment machine can help correct a problem that is in spec. You have to know what your doing.



Thank God I found an honest, reliable alignment shop that has been in business for years and stand behind their work.



I'd call car dealers or 4x4 parts suppliers until you find where everone in your area takes problem front ends like yours and mine. I will always take this truck for an alignment to this frame shop from now on. Eventually we can get these front ends right and then they are a pleasure to drive..... I love my truck.



Good Luck,

Dave

 

[MattTaylor]

Thanks! We'll see if I can find a place that will work with me.

 

[DShore]

What specs do you use for a 2WD? Just added air ride and urethane bushings and need to have it aligned shortly.