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Archived Red foam in the Radiator

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Archived A/C Compressor seized.

Archived Help Can't get Heater /Ac Box out

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WHazelwood

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Pulled into my drive last evening and just as I put the truck in park the check guages chime dinged. Coolant temp was climbing and the truck went to high idle. I waited till this a. m. to check it out and found red foam in the radiator and also on the transmission dip stick. I'm guessing this means a new rediator, flushing the Xmission at the least. Any other ideas before I start taking things apart?
 
No, its not your radiator, its the oil-to-coolant cooler on the drivers side of the engine. It's just down and rear of the stock fuel filter. It's not uncommon to see those coolers fail. Before you go back together with new parts make real sure you flush the cooling system and the transmission real well.
 
Heat exchanger on the side of the black has failed. You are one of the few that have been bitten by this failure, but, it is no consolation it is a rare occurence. Since you are in Ga you can probably safely remove the heat exchanger and not have to replace it.

Radiator and engine is relatively eash to flush with dishwasher soap and multiple flushes. Don't forget to flush the heater core seperately or it leaves deposits that wil plug it.

Transmission is not so easy. Coolant reacts very badly with the frictions and the trans fluid. If you have extensice foaming and milky fluid it will need a rebuild. Without a tear down and careful cleaning the sludge created plugs circuits and the VB. Rebuild is going to be th eonly way to trust it again.
 
Thanks,
I figured that out after looking at the service manual. Prices I'm seeing are $600 for the part. What's involved in by-passing it?
 
Thanks,

I figured that out after looking at the service manual. Prices I'm seeing are $600 for the part. What's involved in by-passing it?
 
You just have to tie the cooler 2 lines in and out of it together. Probably the easiest is new line from the front cooler port to the drain back check ball fitting under the driver side battery. If you have access to a hydraulic shop they can make you a new line that will fit. The OE lines fron the front cooler port to the check ball fitting can be removed and used for a template.
 
My brother and I had a customer with a '03. The cooler went out so we replaced the cooler and flushed it out. And it wasn't more than 2 weeks or so after that that the truck was back in with it not hardly even driving. We got a rebuilt transmission from Transmission Exchange. It's been working great since.
 
Thanks guys,
I've picked up the replacement antifreeze and transmission fluid to clean it up, but it sounds like Garmon's is going to get to go through the transmission when I'm done.
 
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