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Reese 15k installation

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TT hitch pin hole egg shaped

I'll be installing my 5th wheel hitch from my 98 DC into my 2001 DC. It all looks pretty straight forward but I'm not sure what size drill bit to use for the studs throught the frame rails. The threaded part is 1/2" and the splined part alittle bigger. I'm not sure if the holes should be 1/2" and the studs will pull into place with the nuts tightening down on them or if the holes need to be slightly bigger to allow them to pull in. Maybe 17/32" or more. Anyone have directions or experience installing a Reese bedrail kit? I tried the Reese website but it doesn't come up. Any help much appreciated...
 
We just put 2 reese 16k hitches in ,the frame drill size is17/32.

All so is the hole size for the 8 bed bolts.

Good luck on your install.
 
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Drill the holes and lightly oil the threads when you torqe the nuts down. Tighten in a single sweeping motion with a click style torqe wrench. Do not over tighten.

-Paul R. Haller-
 
15k reese hitch

Everyone is correct on the 17/32" bit. I just put one in my truck (April) and had to buy one. Oiling the threads (only) is highly recommended as well. You will probably have to do like I did and that is to take out your fender liners to get to the brackets that bolt to the frame (In order to drill holes and install bolts) unless you want to remove your tank and exhaust system. All you have to do is put new pop-rivets in liner to reattach. It's not really hard, just time consuming.

Good Luck

:cool:
 
Thanks a bunch! I'll go get a 17/32" bit tomorrow and install the hitch this weekend. I have a good Husky clicker torque wrench so that's not a problem. I beleave about 100 ft/lbs for the 1/2" nuts... I'll look it up to be sure.

jstyer, Mine being a 4X2, I don't have wheel wells to remove. I'll just set the rear axle on jack stands, remove the wheels and have plenty of room to work.

Then I'll have to get started on my gauges! Saved them from the 98 also.
 
STEVE M.

A word of caution left front frame bracket top hole put apeice of metal betwen frame and fuel oil tank,so as not to drill hole through tank,bottom hole same bracket there is a brake line you will have to move untill you get this hole drilled.

WATCH THE SHOULDER ON FRAME BOLT DOES NOT CATCH BRAKE LINE WHILE TIGHTENING BRACKET FRAME NUTS.

back bracket driver's side ,you have an electrical wiring harness you will have to move while drilling.



Pasanger side BOMB'S away free sailing.

OPPS with to long a drill bit watch spare tire.



Use 17/32 drill to spot frame,then drill with a 1/4 through frame,then go back to your 17/32 drill through frame,makes drilling frame easer.



Top bolts through bed make sure you get the rails lined up,so when you put the frame brackets on you will have clerance to do so between lower bed support's requires 5/8" min.



Hope this helps
 
Thanks again guys. I wouldn't have thought of putting a piece of metal bewteen the rail and the fuel tank. PFFFSSSSTPOP! is a horrible thing to hear while drilling into the frame. Sometimes when the bit goes through it grabs hold and pulls itself right into what you thought you could simply hold back and avoid. I crawled under there and glanced at that wiring harness too. I'd hate to have it flappin' and flyin' on the end of a drill bit just when I thought I was almost done. I have to laugh in relief of the catastrophy you likely have saved me from bringing upon myself.

The Reese website is a keeper for the favorites folder. I was trying to figure a way to position the pin about 2" ahead of the axle. It's about 3 1/2" ahead by the instructions. Alittle more than I was hoping for but I guess the fine folks at Dodge didn't anticipate us pulling anything with these trucks. Much less with a Reese product. :rolleyes:

Thanks for all the help... The hitch is installed through the bed and all that's left is for me to find a 17/32" bit to attach the brackets to the frame.
 
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