Regen issues

[rocker]

HELP!!!

I have a 2009 Ram 2500 6.7 Mega Cab all stock with 126,000 miles. I have owned the truck for over a year and have had no issues. About 2 months ago while driving at highway speeds (70) the truck sputtered and blew smoke, check engine light then 2 miles down the evic lite up with dpf regen needed, 1 mile later it told me that dpf full. I took it to a local shop and they were able to clear the codes and force a regen and things were happy. I took a 300 mile trip pulling our travel trailer over a major pass with no issues. The next day I was again on the highway doing 70mph and the same thing happened. DPF full, see dealership, reduced power mode, check engine light and codes P242F, P0489, P200C, P1451. I took it to my local Dodge dealership and they told me after 4 days that it was probably the injectors and replace the dpf. ($5540 for injectors and $6500 for dpf). I left them as fast as I could and I am asking for some assistance. I took it home and serviced the EGR system thinking that was preventing the regen to start. After doing that I again went on a 50 mile highway 70mph drive and the evic showed dpf 90% full, regen needed then within 3 mins again dpf full and reduced power mode, see dealership.
What would cause it to not go into regen mode? I was driving, with a load on the engine.



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2009 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 MegaCab

 

[sag2]

You need to find out what is causing the excessive soot. There is no reason the DPF should load up in a 50 mile trip. If the EGR is good I would suspect injectors. Also no need to replace the DPF as long as you fix it and can get it to run another regen. Replacing the DPF without fixing the underlying problem will just result in another plugged DPF.
Have the dealer hook up the scan tool and while driving a steady 55 for 10 minutes watch the soot load in grams. If it goes up more than a couple of grams there is a problem. Check all sensors first, then start looking at the fuel system.
There is a complete set of instructions in TechConnect on how to do a verification drive and proper diagnosis.

 

[rocker]

You need to find out what is causing the excessive soot. There is no reason the DPF should load up in a 50 mile trip. If the EGR is good I would suspect injectors. Also no need to replace the DPF as long as you fix it and can get it to run another regen. Replacing the DPF without fixing the underlying problem will just result in another plugged DPF.
Have the dealer hook up the scan tool and while driving a steady 55 for 10 minutes watch the soot load in grams. If it goes up more than a couple of grams there is a problem. Check all sensors first, then start looking at the fuel system.
There is a complete set of instructions in TechConnect on how to do a verification drive and proper diagnosis.

Thank you for your response. This is very expensive to troubleshoot and replace parts. How come the ECU does not find any issues with the injectors? They are changing the sensors next.

btw, this is a CA truck, so I can't do a DPF delete.

 

[xcc_rider]

You need to check the stroke of the egr valve. It should move freely and close completely. Easy to check, just remove the actuator and move it using your finger. The 0489 is an egr low code. (Same as I got on mine when it stuck open. Dealer cleaned it, stuck open again and was replaced)

 

[sag2]

It does not know the injectors are dirty or hanging open. There are codes for lots of stuff, but injector contamination is not one of them.

 

[rocker]

You need to check the stroke of the egr valve. It should move freely and close completely. Easy to check, just remove the actuator and move it using your finger. The 0489 is an egr low code. (Same as I got on mine when it stuck open. Dealer cleaned it, stuck open again and was replaced)

Thanks, unfortunately I had just taken the egr valve off and soaked it, then on the test drive after that is when it filled up again without starting a regen during a 50 mile test drive.

 

[xcc_rider]

That's why you need to check it after cleaning. (You did disassemble and clean it or did you just soak it?)
If it's still sticking open then you'll continue to have the same issue. It's easy and fast to check and cheaper than the $650 they want for a new valve.
Anything that changes the fuel\air ratio (egr, air filter, boost leak, turbo, injectors, sensors etc) will increase soot production so start with the easy things and go from there.

 

[xcc_rider]

That's was weird, duplicate post deleted.

 

[rocker]

That's why you need to check it after cleaning. (You did disassemble and clean it or did you just soak it?)
If it's still sticking open then you'll continue to have the same issue. It's easy and fast to check and cheaper than the $650 they want for a new valve.
Anything that changes the fuel\air ratio (egr, air filter, boost leak, turbo, injectors, sensors etc) will increase soot production so start with the easy things and go from there.

Yes, I did take it apart and soak it overnight. Got an old tooth brush and cleaned it well. Put it back together and there was a huge improvement on the valve action.

Thanks