Relief valve cap

[CIverson]

So is anyone actually selling these? I tried a bunch of searches and sites and don't see anyone selling a cap.



I don't want to tap mine, just want a replacement solid bolt, or something different. Looked at all the hardware stores and couldn't find the proper size either.



Any help? I just want to cap it to confirm if my relief valve is good or not. I am seeing fuel when I remove the banjo bolt, and the rail would be misted in diesel some times. I removed and retightened the valve and banjo and no more misting.

 

[JJPage]

Pull out the banjo bolt, and take it to the local hardware store, purchase a solid bolt and a neoprene washer, and you are in business.



Mine has been in place for almost 5 years, no problem.

 

[CIverson]

Pull out the banjo bolt, and take it to the local hardware store, purchase a solid bolt and a neoprene washer, and you are in business.



Mine has been in place for almost 5 years, no problem.

As stated, I looked at the hardware store and nothing in the correct length. From searching I need at 12 or 14mm x1. 5 and 20-25mm length.

 

[XtremeDiesel]

try McMastercar they will have that size.

 

[CDonaldson]

I cannot remember who it was, but back in 2006 there was some diesel supplier that was selling a kit for capping off the rail. The kit addressed re-routing the return line. Maybe someone here will chime in and remember where you could get the kit?



The discussions about needing to re-route the return came about right at the time there were discussions about rail pressure issues and DiProcol coming out with a rail pressure gauge.



The reasoning about needing to bypass the return had to do with people who were experienceing problems with cracking lines after capping the railpressure off and not bypassing the return. Those who were driving stock trucks, no pressure boxes, were not having problems - those with pressure boxes, etc were starting to have problems.



Just something to consider? FYI.



I had a few problems early on with rail pressure, throwing a few codes. My dealer change out a couple things, I have not had the problems since. Occasionally I DO notice that my rail pressure gauge 'jumps/bounces' a lot when I am towing heavy loads, but no codes as a result. When I first started having my problems I worried that the valve might 'stick' open and I would be dead along the road, I bought one of those kits and carry it in my toolbox. I cannot remember who/where I got it, but they are out there. Someone here, or on some of the other sites will know I'm sure.



CD

 

[steved]

I cannot remember who it was, but back in 2006 there was some diesel supplier that was selling a kit for capping off the rail. The kit addressed re-routing the return line. Maybe someone here will chime in and remember where you could get the kit?





CD

I was thinking Glacier Diesel Performance??

 

[cerberusiam]

So is anyone actually selling these? I tried a bunch of searches and sites and don't see anyone selling a cap.



I don't want to tap mine, just want a replacement solid bolt, or something different. Looked at all the hardware stores and couldn't find the proper size either.



Any help? I just want to cap it to confirm if my relief valve is good or not. I am seeing fuel when I remove the banjo bolt, and the rail would be misted in diesel some times. I removed and retightened the valve and banjo and no more misting.

If your having that much problem finding a bolt the right size just tap the inside of the banjo to accept a pipe plug. Remove the pipe plug if you want to restore to normal.



The inector return will route fuel thru the same junction which is probbaly where you are getting the mist. To check the valve you need to remove the other line far enough from the relief vlave to keep any fluid from making it look wet then check when you are running for leaks. Generally once they pop they will seep all the time and you should be able to see it.

 

[jman]

I saw them on eBay for around $25. Search for CP3 and it will find them as well. They were there a couple weeks ago.

 

[CIverson]

I saw them on eBay for around $25. Search for CP3 and it will find them as well. They were there a couple weeks ago.

$25 seems high for a bolt!



I checked Glacier, nothing



I think it is industrial injection that sells a dual feed kit, that nixes the valve, but it is 300 and I can almost get a new valve for that.



Looks like I might have to go the ebay route.

 

[F-15I Ra'am]

I think NGM Performance, their handle is Diesel Power on here, used to sell one?

 

[SShafranko]

FTEDiesel.com and Floor it also sells one.

 

[Red_Rattler]

Couple questions: When the pressure relief valve pops, isn't it done for, ie time for a new one (unless plugged)? And if you replace the banjo bolt with a solid bolt, doesn't that stop a leaky injector from bleeding off pressure to the fuel rail since it has nowhere to go? So the bolt (or tapped and plugged) may keep a truck running from a faulty valve, or allow it to start with a leaky injector, at the remote risk of possibly bursting a fuel line from overpressure.

Anything on this?

 

[cerberusiam]

When the pressure relief valve pops, isn't it done for, ie time for a new one (unless plugged)?



Yes, for lots of $$ considering what it is.



And if you replace the banjo bolt with a solid bolt, doesn't that stop a leaky injector from bleeding off pressure to the fuel rail since it has nowhere to go?



No, not with a pipe plug anyway and IIRC the injector return ties in below the rail cap.



So the bolt (or tapped and plugged) may keep a truck running from a faulty valve, or allow it to start with a leaky injector, at the remote risk of possibly bursting a fuel line from overpressure.



Yep, or blowin a transfer tube seal, or injector, or... .

 

[SShafranko]

Anything on this?

The relief valve was put there for a reason. I know people who have it capped for three years and never had a problem yet. Its definitely a risk. Is it worth taking?

 

[steved]

The relief valve was put there for a reason. I know people who have it capped for three years and never had a problem yet. Its definitely a risk. Is it worth taking?

From what I have gathered, its more risky if you are using a programmer/chip that adds rail pressure...

If you think about it, most times the valve won't ever pop or give any trouble with a stock configuration truck. And therefore one could assume that if the rail pressure relief doesn't usually trip, it could be eliminated without much issue... but on the other side of the coin, it was put there for some reason...

Didn't someone have an FCA fail one time that spiked the rail pressures to crazy high numbers??

 

[roadking]

any pictures not sure of witch banjo bolt sorry i came into thread late

 

[steved]

If you look at the rail, there is the rail pressure sensor (has wires) and a tower looking thing (about 1. 5 inches tall) with a banjo bolt at the top. The tower is the relief valve... I believe its between injector line connections two and three?



The only other thing on the rail is injector lines...

 

[CIverson]

From what I have gathered, its more risky if you are using a programmer/chip that adds rail pressure...



If you think about it, most times the valve won't ever pop or give any trouble with a stock configuration truck. And therefore one could assume that if the rail pressure relief doesn't usually trip, it could be eliminated without much issue... but on the other side of the coin, it was put there for some reason...



Didn't someone have an FCA fail one time that spiked the rail pressures to crazy high numbers??

Right, for me I'm not running a pressure box. Doesn't mean that the valve couldn't fail though. I ordered the bolt off ebay, got tired of looking around.



I am going to use mine as a tool to test if my valve is bad. If it is not, it will get put in the glovebox as an emergency spare.

 

[sag2]

As a picture is worth a thousand words;

The banjo bolt is $4. 75

 

[Paddy McMahon]

The pressure relief valve in my rig went out last month. The mechanic that replaced it stated that there is an internal spring that resets the valve a few times before it is fatigued and no loger re-seats the internal ball that closes the valve. I was told that the failure was most likely due to adding rail pressure in the past with an Edge product. I had T&C diesel contact me and tell me they had good used relief valves for $60. Now I simply run stock when towing and use the Smarty (with no rail pressure changes) set on one or three when cruising around empty.