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BoeingDiesel

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Anyone on the TDR into reloading? I recently sold and/or gave away all of my rod wrapping equipment and have more rods than I'll ever use ranging from bait casting to XH trolling rods. I don't do the long range trips anymore as I can't pull on the heavies like I used to. Now that my wife and I can go to the range together I decided to get into reloading and with going through 500-600 rounds a month it seemed like a natural to me. I load 9m, 10m, 40SW and 357 and 38+p. I wasn't looking into the cost savings so much but it definitely is a cost saver on the heavier loads and... I can retire to my cave while she's cooking or watching one of her Hen programs. Anyone else?
 
Reminds me. I've got about 20# of WWII brass Dad acquired in his time on tin cans, '49-'49 (some 40MM, couple 5 inch). Can it be melted down and reused? I suppose my own 7# of 9MM Luger brass can be reloaded....
 
I like the Dillon 650XL and the Lee Loadmaster. I have die heads set up for each caliber and makes it a simple task to change.
Fester, the 9M Luger can be reloaded. If they were shot through a Glock there's a chance they have the "Glock bulge," which is fixable but requires some scrutiny and extra steps.
 
Boeing,
Been reloading since I was a kid.
Reload .38 Spl., 357 Mag, 40 S&W, 10MM, 45 ACP and .44 Mag for the pistols. .223, 5.56, .308, 25-06 Rem., 22-250, 30-06 and .300 WM.
You and your wife can very easily and enjoyably burn 500-600 rds a month. When I was shooting IPSC, I was reloading about 1500-2000 rounds per month.
Dillion makes a exceptional product, backed by a 100% satisfaction and product guarantee. You break ANYTHING, even if you caused it, they will take care of it no questions asked. My first progressive was a Dillion 550B and extra tool heads for each set of dies. The only down side was it was a manually indexed machine, once you work around it and learned the machine it was a small obstacle.
I use it for ALL my bulk reloading.
Most of my precision loading on long range stuff and load development is done on a RCBS Rockchucker.
These are just the products I use and have become familiar and proficient on, however Lee, Hornaday and many others make a good products also
Great hobby and saves a lot of money.
Any questions, drop me a message.
~Chad

,
 
That's an impressive list of reloading Chad! I haven't ventured into rifle as of yet but I do have 308 and 30-06. I will keep that in mind as I progress. I like retreating to my loading room...turn on the radio and shut out the noise of the day.
 
Since you haven't gone down the rifle road as yet, for the calibers you listed in pistol I would go with a good progressive. My first choice is the Dillion(personal preference) progressive, probably the XL650. But like I said, Lee, Hornaday and others makes fine equipment.
When you want to step up to the rifles, get a good single stage, like a RCBS Rockchucker. But again Lee, Hornaday and others have good equipment. A single stage press like the Rockchucker (size, massive and leverage) is key. Size, mass and leverage of a larger press makes for effortless re-sizing and less stress on the equipment when sizing rifle calibers, it will last forever. RCBS, Lee and Hornaday all have lifetime warranties. And they are no BS warranties too, like Dillion.
Also if you shoot volume rifle like 5.56, .223 or even .308 the Dillion will walk right through that stuff, no problem. I just have a preference when distance and precision is involved, like 5.56 Match or .308 I load those on a single stage. (Just Anal I guess) For training and classes where use of the 5.56 or .308 is used, I will use Dillion reloaded products, no problem. Sometimes a 2-3 day class we burn 200-400 rounds a day.
Hide in the "Reloading Hole" and enjoy!
~Chad
 
Since you haven't gone down the rifle road as yet, for the calibers you listed in pistol I would go with a good progressive. My first choice is the Dillion(personal preference) progressive, probably the XL650. But like I said, Lee, Hornaday and others makes fine equipment.
When you want to step up to the rifles, get a good single stage, like a RCBS Rockchucker. But again Lee, Hornaday and others have good equipment. A single stage press like the Rockchucker (size, massive and leverage) is key. Size, mass and leverage of a larger press makes for effortless re-sizing and less stress on the equipment when sizing rifle calibers, it will last forever. RCBS, Lee and Hornaday all have lifetime warranties. And they are no BS warranties too, like Dillion.
Also if you shoot volume rifle like 5.56, .223 or even .308 the Dillion will walk right through that stuff, no problem. I just have a preference when distance and precision is involved, like 5.56 Match or .308 I load those on a single stage. (Just Anal I guess) For training and classes where use of the 5.56 or .308 is used, I will use Dillion reloaded products, no problem. Sometimes a 2-3 day class we burn 200-400 rounds a day.
Hide in the "Reloading Hole" and enjoy!
~Chad

I have the Dillon XL650 with most accessories and the Lee Loadmaster same. I do like the Dillon but there are features about the Lee that I also like. I've often thought of reloading for the rifles but still in the learning phase with small caliber and when I step to the plate for the 308 and 30-06 I've already decided on the Rockchucker. I belong to a reloading forum and there is a plethora of information and a lot of helpful people that contribute to the neophytes. I use Midway quite a bit and I like their service and pricing. Something that is a little confusing is that there are so many powder options available...I use Hodg' HP38 and CCI small primers. For brass cleaning I have the Hornady lock n load sonic...seems to do the job for me and no longer getting stuck media in the primer pocket.
 
Boeing,
Seems to me your are well set and on your way.
As far as powder differences, the biggest thing are the burn rates of powders.
Here's a great chart by Hodgdon that shows all the major powders and their burn rates fastest to slowest.

https://www.hodgdon.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/burn-rate-color.pdf

Generally the fastest powders are formulated to burn fast and clean and lower pressures in large bores, ie. Shotgun loads. If you glance at the chart the top 15 or 20 fastest generally are the powders that excel in the Trap and Skeet reloading world. Field loads also. Also these loads are weighed in Drams, not grains.
Now go to end of the chart, slowest up towards the say #150 towards #90 numbers, these are formulated to burn slowly and build pressure at a slower rate than the powders at the top of the chart. Formulated to burn/build higher pressures very slowly in larger case metallic cartridges, ie High Power Rifle and utilize the long barrel length's for clean, complete burning. Everything is based on efficiency and cleanliness, while keeping the pressure curves well below maximums for any given cartridge.
OK, that said here's a few take-aways.
Somewhere along the line, whether by design or discovery, metallic cartridge pistol reloaders found that the fastest powders when used in small and short metallic pistol cases with limited capacity could produce muzzle velocity's that were wonderful, when loaded with caution and keep pressures down.
This is why you see pistol reloaders utilizing a lot of shotgun powders.
Back in the "Old" days, I reloaded a lot of .357 Mag using Hodgdon HS-6, which is primarily a shotgun powder.
Today, specifically speaking of the .40 S&W, my go to load is WW231, again primarily a shotgun powder. I've used this as my "go to" for a long time for the .40S&W. Then Winchester comes out with WSF, and some fellow hand loaders tell me to try it, it's cleaner than the WW231. Haven't made the complete switch, but I one of my minor complaints was always was WW231 leaves guns dirty after a couple hundred rounds. Here's once again shotgun powders utilized in pistol cases.
You noted you use HP38, it was formulated specifically for metallic pistol cases, closely mimicking the shotgun powders previously used.
Regarding your use of HP38. I don't know if you use it in the .40S&W, however I checked some data and found that HP38 and WW231 in the .40 are identical in velocity, pressure and powder charge.
I haven't tried it, but I think volume wise HP38 occupies more case.

One point about the older, fast burning powders that were primarily designed for shotgun. Because of this, increases over maximum charges is an absolute NO-NO. Maximum means just that and the pressure curve changes DRASTICALLY after maximum. One more thing, a VERY LITTLE goes a long way. So, some powders like BULLSEYE in a .38 SPL case and others with fast burn rates, it is possible to throw a DOUBLE charge and not know it unless you inspect the case prior to seating or (worse case) pull the trigger. Results are catastrophic destruction or missing parts and pieces of one's hand.
Powders like HP38 were developed to have the same pressures and power with more volume, making double charging a case almost impossible without detection.

So there ya go.
Sorry for my lack of brevity, but I feel so strongly about being concise on this subject. If we are a little unconcise with our trucks we just have to walk, in this subject if we are unconcise, the results can be horrible.

Anything else you have, please ask.
~Chad
 
Get yourself several reloading manuals and USE THEM!!! I've been reloading as long as I can remember with my Dad and on my own. I don't offer very much in the way of opinions other than THE ABOVE

GOOD LUCK & ENJOY
 
I second BIGNASTY's thought. In addition to the hard manuals, if you have a laptop/desktop, get the reloading software that several companies offer. Some even offer free annual updates.
Enjoy,
~C
 
I have Richard Lee's 2nd addition and Sierra 5th edition rifle and pistol manuals...guess I better be reading up on powder options. I have the RCBS Range Master 2000 digital scale and I'm very wary in checking the powder drop and looking into the case with each round and I scale check the first 6 or 7 drops on a new setup. I found that with a white LED lamp you can get a clear view of what's going on. Something that has caused me to move my wife away from her Sig' and Beretta to a revolver is the possibility of a squib load and forbid the thought that my bride would not catch it. She's taken quite a few courses in defensive shooting, but ya' know, stuff happens. Safety is numero uno with me.

Thanks Chad and Big', I do appreciate your advice.
 
Sounds to me like you have this "pretty darn well wired".
I have always had a light, battery powered or now hard wired, lil LED light above the first area after the powder drop station where I can glance "in the hole".
When using a single stage press, that's where loading blocks come in. Whether 50 or 100 at a time, place them in blocks after throwing the charge and just prior to seating/crimping a quick pass over the tops with a flashlight will quickly reveal any "no throws", light or doubles.
With the Dillion, invest in the powder checker system ($70), works wonders. Even though I double, triple check here and there. Re-weigh the powder throw every so many to verify.
I understand the "squib" load issue. Go the direction which ever makes you and your bride feel comfortable.
On my Dillion I had one no throw on the powder, and that somewhere north of 15K rounds, in a .40S&W, when participating in IPSC. I don't know how it happened.
Good news is, my Brother got the squib during a practice day and I was right beside him on the firing line. I caught the sound change, immediately stopped him, which he looked at me like I was crazy. Quickly clearing our pieces, I produced a rod out of my range box and dropped it in the barrel, it stopped half way down.
I drove the slug out and gave to him as a souvenir and a memory jogger for the lesson we just learned. He still has the slug.
So I understand.
Don't forget it can happen with a revolver also.
But, since I see your first priority in ALL this is safety, I think you are good to go. Just do what makes you feel comfortable.
Enjoy this fantastic hobby!
~C
 
Sounds to me like you have this "pretty darn well wired".
I have always had a light, battery powered or now hard wired, lil LED light above the first area after the powder drop station where I can glance "in the hole".
When using a single stage press, that's where loading blocks come in. Whether 50 or 100 at a time, place them in blocks after throwing the charge and just prior to seating/crimping a quick pass over the tops with a flashlight will quickly reveal any "no throws", light or doubles.
With the Dillion, invest in the powder checker system ($70), works wonders. Even though I double, triple check here and there. Re-weigh the powder throw every so many to verify.
I understand the "squib" load issue. Go the direction which ever makes you and your bride feel comfortable.
On my Dillion I had one no throw on the powder, and that somewhere north of 15K rounds, in a .40S&W, when participating in IPSC. I don't know how it happened.
Good news is, my Brother got the squib during a practice day and I was right beside him on the firing line. I caught the sound change, immediately stopped him, which he looked at me like I was crazy. Quickly clearing our pieces, I produced a rod out of my range box and dropped it in the barrel, it stopped half way down.
I drove the slug out and gave to him as a souvenir and a memory jogger for the lesson we just learned. He still has the slug.
So I understand.
Don't forget it can happen with a revolver also.
But, since I see your first priority in ALL this is safety, I think you are good to go. Just do what makes you feel comfortable.
Enjoy this fantastic hobby!
~C


Chad, you've got this nailed. As far as the squib issue I figured that my wife would have more lag time between shots and with a solid breech and slightly more recoil she would be more apt to notice something isn't right. Your brother is blessed that his brother was paying attention!
Thanks, gregg
 
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