Attention: TDR Forum Junkies My first post! Yeeehaaaw! Go easy on me please.
I just installed a new campaign LP yesterday. I ordered the relo kit from Geno's Garage. It took all afternoon because this is the first time I've ever modified ANY vehicle. I've always done my own maintenance and other fixes but never any mods. Anyway, this is how the new guy did it and/or recommends doing it so that anybody else who's new might not stop and think as much as I did. The directions from Genos were very good but they were written for the guy who's done stuff like this. Before you start, make sure you go to the store and buy 3/8" or 1/2" hose clamps. You'll need at least 4. You'll also need a small tubing cutter (the smallest). You'll be cutting that stainless steel supply line from the tank. Also get some spare diesel in a can. You will dip the hose adapter fittings in this to make the hose slip onto the fitting easier.
Prep
1. Take the new pump out of the box and attach the INPUT and OUTPUT fittings (without the hose adapters) to the pump being very careful about torque.
2. Attach the short fuel hose to its adapter (dipped in diesel) and tighten a hose clamp on it. Attach that assembly to the INPUT port fitting on the pump using a wrench on the pump fitting and a wrench on the hose fitting. DO NOT OVER TORQUE!
Now to get dirty - and you will.
3. Get a milk crate to stand on. You will need this to reach down to the lift pump on the engine and NOT stretch out your back.
4. Disconnect the fuel FILTER input banjo bolt (they do look like banjos) and install the "L" hose adapter fitting by hand. Take the long new fuel supply hose, connect it to a fitting, tighten a hose clamp on it and attach it to the "L" fitting by hand only. Then run the hose where you want it and drop it to the ground. You'll feed that to the new pump later.
5. Unscrew the harness bracket for the LP power supply plugs (it's on the LP mounting bracket) and unplug the supply.
Pump removal
6. Get on the creeper and slide under the truck. I reached around the starter with both arms and loosened the banjos on the pump. You won't be able to see them very well but feeling for them isn't too hard. I lowered the small OUTPUT line and just moved the long INPUT line from the tank to the side so it wouldn't spill fuel on me.
7. Slide out from under the truck and get on the milk crate. I unscrewed the nuts holding the pump on the mounting bracket. The nuts didn't free themselves so I ended up unscrewing the mounting bolts from the pump itself. If this happens to you, just unscrew each bolt a bit at a time so that the pump lowers itself evenly and doesn't pinch the other screws.
8. When the pump is really loose, slide under the truck again and reach around the starter to continue unscrewing the bolts and remove the pump. When the pump is free, you can then use closed end wrenches or small ratchets to remove the mounting screws and nuts from the bracket if the bolts are still attached to the bracket.
9. Leave the old bracket on the engine and get the new relocation bracket and slide back under the truck.
10. I have the full size bed and quad cab so I had a few choices for pump location. You'll see the fuel lines and the clamps on the frame rail. I chose the second clamp location from the TANK because it gave me more room. The new mounting bracket will use that clamp point.
11. Loosen all the clamps so that you can remove the fuel line you cut off and remove the clamp where the pump mounting bracket will be.
12. Now this may have been a mistake (as I read last night, YUK!) but I used my compressor to blow the fuel back into the tank from the supply line so that I wouldn't get diesel all over me when I cut the line. I tried not to just blast it in there but who knows. The risk here is that you will blast off your IN-TANK filter screen. If you decide to do this, loosen the tank cap and be careful. This weekend I'll be lowering the tank to see if that happened and to clean the screen if I can find it.
13. About 2" AFTER (toward the engine) the first clamp next to the tank, cut the lower fuel supply line that went up to the old pump. Just pull the line out from the frame, attach that tubing cutter and start turning and tightening. It takes a several minutes because it's stainless steel.
13. Once that is cut, remove the old line you cut off and get the new mounting bracket, pump, old mounting bracket nuts, wrenches and ratchets, razor knife, hose adapters, beer, rags, did I forget anything?
14. Mount the bracket in the second clamp location using the clamp screw. You will most likely have to drill holes for the second and third screw holes. On my frame, there is a big hole near this location so I can just drill holes and use machine screws, lock washers, and nuts.
15. Mount the pump on the bracket.
16. Measure the correct amount of short hose that goes to the tank and cut off the excess. Add the hose clamp, install the hose over the stainless line and tighten the clamp. You can insert that stainless line back into its clamp (the 1st clamp from the tank) and tighten it down.
17. Take the long hose on the filter, run it down the firewall, install into the clamp where the previous line went, run it to the pump and cut off the right amount for the hose adapter on the lift pump.
18. Put a hose clamp on the hose, install the hose adapter (dipped in diesel) on the end, tighten this onto the pump outlet fitting using two wrenches and do NOT OVER TORQUE!
19. Connect the new power supply extension that came with the kit. I fed this inside the frame (is that bad?), tied it down with the tie wraps, and then connected it to the old mounting bracket using the old connector harness.
20. Make sure all fuel connections (except on the filter) are tight and do NOT over torque the fittings on the pump.
21. Slide out from under the truck and take some of the spare diesel, use a funnel or a squirt bottle, and pour into the hose that will connect to the filter. This made priming VERY EASY for me. I poured until no more would go in the hose.
22. Tighten that hose assembly onto the filter fitting and make sure all fittings are tight but do NOT over torque. Then loosen one of the small screws on top of the filter and bump the starter. That makes the pump run for 20 seconds or so. That bleeds off the air. Tighten that little screw and fire up the truck. No worries. It fired on my first try.
23. Let the truck run for a bit and watch all fittings for leaks.
Afterthoughts
I plan to go back and use some rubber pads to isolate the pump mounting bracket. That little sucker makes some noise. I also want to install a filter screen outside the tank. Is there any reason why the fuel filter has to be on the engine? I think I can mount that on the frame also. Is that bad? I will also install gauge fittings for my next mod.
My fingers are tired.
I just installed a new campaign LP yesterday. I ordered the relo kit from Geno's Garage. It took all afternoon because this is the first time I've ever modified ANY vehicle. I've always done my own maintenance and other fixes but never any mods. Anyway, this is how the new guy did it and/or recommends doing it so that anybody else who's new might not stop and think as much as I did. The directions from Genos were very good but they were written for the guy who's done stuff like this. Before you start, make sure you go to the store and buy 3/8" or 1/2" hose clamps. You'll need at least 4. You'll also need a small tubing cutter (the smallest). You'll be cutting that stainless steel supply line from the tank. Also get some spare diesel in a can. You will dip the hose adapter fittings in this to make the hose slip onto the fitting easier.
Prep
1. Take the new pump out of the box and attach the INPUT and OUTPUT fittings (without the hose adapters) to the pump being very careful about torque.
2. Attach the short fuel hose to its adapter (dipped in diesel) and tighten a hose clamp on it. Attach that assembly to the INPUT port fitting on the pump using a wrench on the pump fitting and a wrench on the hose fitting. DO NOT OVER TORQUE!
Now to get dirty - and you will.
3. Get a milk crate to stand on. You will need this to reach down to the lift pump on the engine and NOT stretch out your back.
4. Disconnect the fuel FILTER input banjo bolt (they do look like banjos) and install the "L" hose adapter fitting by hand. Take the long new fuel supply hose, connect it to a fitting, tighten a hose clamp on it and attach it to the "L" fitting by hand only. Then run the hose where you want it and drop it to the ground. You'll feed that to the new pump later.
5. Unscrew the harness bracket for the LP power supply plugs (it's on the LP mounting bracket) and unplug the supply.
Pump removal
6. Get on the creeper and slide under the truck. I reached around the starter with both arms and loosened the banjos on the pump. You won't be able to see them very well but feeling for them isn't too hard. I lowered the small OUTPUT line and just moved the long INPUT line from the tank to the side so it wouldn't spill fuel on me.
7. Slide out from under the truck and get on the milk crate. I unscrewed the nuts holding the pump on the mounting bracket. The nuts didn't free themselves so I ended up unscrewing the mounting bolts from the pump itself. If this happens to you, just unscrew each bolt a bit at a time so that the pump lowers itself evenly and doesn't pinch the other screws.
8. When the pump is really loose, slide under the truck again and reach around the starter to continue unscrewing the bolts and remove the pump. When the pump is free, you can then use closed end wrenches or small ratchets to remove the mounting screws and nuts from the bracket if the bolts are still attached to the bracket.
9. Leave the old bracket on the engine and get the new relocation bracket and slide back under the truck.
10. I have the full size bed and quad cab so I had a few choices for pump location. You'll see the fuel lines and the clamps on the frame rail. I chose the second clamp location from the TANK because it gave me more room. The new mounting bracket will use that clamp point.
11. Loosen all the clamps so that you can remove the fuel line you cut off and remove the clamp where the pump mounting bracket will be.
12. Now this may have been a mistake (as I read last night, YUK!) but I used my compressor to blow the fuel back into the tank from the supply line so that I wouldn't get diesel all over me when I cut the line. I tried not to just blast it in there but who knows. The risk here is that you will blast off your IN-TANK filter screen. If you decide to do this, loosen the tank cap and be careful. This weekend I'll be lowering the tank to see if that happened and to clean the screen if I can find it.
13. About 2" AFTER (toward the engine) the first clamp next to the tank, cut the lower fuel supply line that went up to the old pump. Just pull the line out from the frame, attach that tubing cutter and start turning and tightening. It takes a several minutes because it's stainless steel.
13. Once that is cut, remove the old line you cut off and get the new mounting bracket, pump, old mounting bracket nuts, wrenches and ratchets, razor knife, hose adapters, beer, rags, did I forget anything?
14. Mount the bracket in the second clamp location using the clamp screw. You will most likely have to drill holes for the second and third screw holes. On my frame, there is a big hole near this location so I can just drill holes and use machine screws, lock washers, and nuts.
15. Mount the pump on the bracket.
16. Measure the correct amount of short hose that goes to the tank and cut off the excess. Add the hose clamp, install the hose over the stainless line and tighten the clamp. You can insert that stainless line back into its clamp (the 1st clamp from the tank) and tighten it down.
17. Take the long hose on the filter, run it down the firewall, install into the clamp where the previous line went, run it to the pump and cut off the right amount for the hose adapter on the lift pump.
18. Put a hose clamp on the hose, install the hose adapter (dipped in diesel) on the end, tighten this onto the pump outlet fitting using two wrenches and do NOT OVER TORQUE!
19. Connect the new power supply extension that came with the kit. I fed this inside the frame (is that bad?), tied it down with the tie wraps, and then connected it to the old mounting bracket using the old connector harness.
20. Make sure all fuel connections (except on the filter) are tight and do NOT over torque the fittings on the pump.
21. Slide out from under the truck and take some of the spare diesel, use a funnel or a squirt bottle, and pour into the hose that will connect to the filter. This made priming VERY EASY for me. I poured until no more would go in the hose.
22. Tighten that hose assembly onto the filter fitting and make sure all fittings are tight but do NOT over torque. Then loosen one of the small screws on top of the filter and bump the starter. That makes the pump run for 20 seconds or so. That bleeds off the air. Tighten that little screw and fire up the truck. No worries. It fired on my first try.
23. Let the truck run for a bit and watch all fittings for leaks.
Afterthoughts
I plan to go back and use some rubber pads to isolate the pump mounting bracket. That little sucker makes some noise. I also want to install a filter screen outside the tank. Is there any reason why the fuel filter has to be on the engine? I think I can mount that on the frame also. Is that bad? I will also install gauge fittings for my next mod.
My fingers are tired.
again ,welcome and good luck! p. s. the more accurate ur sig the better we can help u !
