Removal of downpipe for HX-40 installation...

[RobG]

I was messing with this last night, and didn't get back to it today due to other projects... I got the HX-35 off, and have been trying to get the downpipe off, so I can install the new downpipe and HX-40.

I've almost mangled the existing downpipe... I drilled a half-inch hole through it and have been trying to hammer it out using a screwdriver and a 2 lb. sledge. This has resulted in elongating the hole on the bottom to almost two inches long, and only gotten the pipe loose by about 1/2 to 3/4 inch.

I was about to get a Sawzall and start cutting, but I'd rather not mangle the pipe beyond use (at least the holes can be patched in case I want to reuse it later).

Then a friend said to use a propane torch to heat the pipe and it'd slide out. Is this true? I can't get it to budge. It won't rotate either. It appears that the darn clamp has put a small dent in the top of the pipe, which may be preventing it from sliding out.

I've already soaked it with Liquid Wrench several times, and that hasn't helped much either. The only other thing I can think of is to remove the entire exhaust system, but I imagine the rest of the slip-fittings will be just as stuck.

Any suggestions?

Rob


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2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate, 4. 10, USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels, DD EZ, DD3 Injectors, HX-40, Southbend Clutch, SPA Guages, Psychotty, Firestone Airbags, Hellwig Rear Swaybar, Torklift Superhitch & Camper Tiedowns, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, DD 4" Exhaust, US Gear Exhaust Brake, etc.

 

[R.ebel]

RobG, My experience is that the 'fire wrench' will work wonders. You need to get the pipe a least to a dull red color then wiggle it around while good and warm, this should help with the crimp cuased by the muffler clamp in the pipe. Good luck.

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1997 2500 SLT 4X4,5 spd,3. 54's,Pacbrake,Rancho 9000's,Centerforce,K&N,Isspro,BD 300 HP pump, Jardine 4", 370's and 16cm housing.

 

[Forrest]

Hey Rob,

My downpipe was touching the batting on the firewall. I didn't even think about it, but Jim Leonard pointed it out. Jim did some work on a truck with some fire damage, caused from this stuff on the hot pipe. The owner got it hot while towing. Do some trimming when you get the old pipe out of there. #ad


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Money Sink - 96, 5 speed, TST 380, HX40-16, 300 HP Injectors, Scourge BD 4200rpm Governor kit, McLeod, 4", CATless, straight out back, chrome turn down, ISSPRO Pillar, Delvac 1 & Amsiol, K&N, Mag-Hytec, 3:54, Michelin 235s on Alcoas, Rancho 9000's, Valentine One, Garmin.
Dutchmen 27' 5th Wheel.
GoldWing.

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Torch is the way to go, you can take anything apart with a torch. Just heat it up nice and red and get some vice grips and keep twisting it back and forth till it comes loose. Just be careful you dont heat anything else up and start a fire.

 

[John Dimartino]

A propane torch will not give you anywhere near the heat you need to get it off,A have used a Mapp gas torch,they are quite a bit hotter than propane,my mapp torch will ttturn a 1/2" nut/bolt red. The mapp gas torch might get it warm,but you really ned an aceteylene torch,heat the entire diameter of the joint,and wiggle with a pair of big pleirs,and out it will come.

 

[RobG]

I was able to get it off using my brazing torch. I heated it up until the Liquid Wrench still in there started bubbling out, then I hammered it out the rest of the way using that hole I'd already created, with a cheap 3/8" extension that I sacrificed for the task.

Everything is installed now... I'll post details about it in another topic.

Thanks everybody!

Rob