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Remove or not remove turbo??

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Getting ready to drill and tap exhaust manifold for EGT probe...
If I use Vaseline on drill bit and tap to catch most chips, do you think what little flakes that are left will blow thru turbo on
an easy first startup?
Thanks for any help.

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Deezul Doug-2001. 5 ETH/DEE,QC 4x4,3. 54 anti,
Tow/Camper,Westin SS Step Bars,relocated breather.

Tow #1 - 6x12 Interstate inclosed cargo trailer.
GVW 7500
Tow #2 - Starcraft camper trailer
GVW 4500

2001 Volvo S80T twin turbo
 
That is exactly what I did. Just installed my EGT probe today. Just pack the bit w/ the Vaseline and drill slowly. Drill a little and clean the bit/repack with Vaseline. Use a magnet to fish around as much and as deep as you can to get out any shavings that may fall in. Do the same thing while you are tapping the threads. Take your time! Whatever little pieces you miss should blow right thru without causing any damage.

Hope this eases your mind!

Will

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Will
'98 3500 24v, auto, 4. 10s, Poweredge EZ, K&N, Gauges
38' United Expressline
X-treme Gooseneck race car hauler.

Other Bad Habit:
'87 Buick Regal
Turbo V-6 1400hp, 1200ft/lbs
4. 99 @ 142MPH 1/8 mile
7. 70 @ 179MPH 1/4 mile
And lookin' for more!

SO I'M A TURBO MAN... .
BOOST ON!
 
Thanks Will!
Now to figure out where to find a magnet to go thru the 5/16 hole...

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Deezul Doug-2001. 5 ETH/DEE,QC 4x4,3. 54 anti,
Tow/Camper,Westin SS Step Bars,relocated breather.

Tow #1 - 6x12 Interstate inclosed cargo trailer.
GVW 7500
Tow #2 - Starcraft camper trailer
GVW 4500

2001 Volvo S80T twin turbo
 
What I found that worked better was to tape a good strong shop vac intake at the drill location so all of the shavings are removed and do not have a chance to get in the exhaust. (or you can have a helper hod the vac. ) Also make sure you have a small magnet handy that will fit inside your drilled hole to remove any shavings just in case. You will not have a problem if you use these precautions.

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2001. 5 ETH 3500 6spd. 4x4 quad cab,3. 54LSD,all avail. opts. incl. leather,s. s. fender trim,s. s. bug guard,Stull running boards and custom flaps,line x bed liner, BD injectors plus ISSPRO EGT and Boost, pillar mt. ,Eze Edge,Jardine 4" ex. ,Reese class 5 hitch,Custom overload springs
 
i use a small magnet that came with a socket set and tape it to a pencil,,,also a car vac with a 1/4 inch piece of plastic tube about 6" long taped to the end works good. i also have someone hold a vac while i drill,,use grease on the bit & tap

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94 2500 4x4 SLT,auto,187,000 miles,3:54,brilliant blue/silver,tst 250/635 set full forward,star wheel wide open,air box ported,pump turned up 20%,k&n,gauges,cat gutted,
2001. 5 3500 4x4 q-cab slt,auto,8900 miles,3:55lsd,brite silver,tst power max 3 adjustable,j-hook,3 gauges on the a-pillar,2" tuff country front leveling kit,vinyl graphics,dee zee runnin boards,both have 12k hitches&15k's in the beds,30ft fourwinds 5er,(MY RAMS) http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1360183&a=10142301
 
a turbo is an expensive thing to waste!!
for the time it takes to remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold and pipe, i think it's worth peace of mind that NO chips will have the possiblity of going through your 0-tolorance turbo. just my . 02$... james

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1999 RED LOADED 3500 QC DUALLY. 331N. DUNLOPS,ALPINE AUDIO,PSYCHOTTY AIR WITH K&N,BANKS POWERPACK,275 injectors, VA CPC, soon come. . DTT TC and VB. more in store????
 
I agree... why take chances? Piece of mind... removed it.

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98. 5 2500, 24v, 5 speed, QC, 4x4, 4. 10 LSD, short bed, Line-X liner, tow package, camper suspension, Westin nerfs, camper shell, TST PowerMax Competition, 275 RVs, Psychotty air, HX-40, 4" straight pipe exhaust, ProComp A/T 305/70/R16s, EGT/Boost pillar gauges... Love my Cummins, no love for Dodge
 
When I installed my pyro, I drilled the hole with the turbo still in place. Used grease, a magnet and shop vacume to control the 'chips'. When the pryo install was complete I just didn't fell right about the possibilty of any chips going through the turbo. So off came the turbo, good thing I took this extra step because there was a fair amont of chip debris that was out of reach of the magnet and vacume. I sure slept good that night #ad


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1997 2500 SLT 4X4,5 spd,3. 54's,Pacbrake,Rancho 9000's,Centerforce,K&N,Isspro,BD 300 HP pump, Jardine 4", 370's and 16cm housing.
 
Drilled mine with the engine running. Positive pressure kept the shavings out.

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1999 2500 4x4, auto, 3. 54 LSD, HD241, Quad cab SLT, Blk Sport Pkg, 16x8 Eagles, 285 Bridgestone AT, Bilsteins, 100% Amsoil, 80/100w lights, Valentine One, DTT TC/vb, Mag-Hytek trans pan, DD2's, DD TTPM, Isspro gauges.
1992 SC400
1978 Mooney 201 IFR
 
Close tolerance???

Isn't there a 5/8-3/4" venturi the exhaust gas blows thru onto the turbine wheel?

The wheel is in a housing that exits thru a 3" pipe , right?

Doesn't carbon blow out the cylinders and thru the turbo?

I don't understand 'close tolerances' that a few minute chips might bother... .

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Deezul Doug-2001. 5 ETH/DEE,QC 4x4,3. 54 anti,
Tow/Camper,Westin SS Step Bars,relocated breather.

Tow #1 - 6x12 Interstate inclosed cargo trailer.
GVW 7500
Tow #2 - Starcraft camper trailer
GVW 4500

2001 Volvo S80T twin turbo
 
Turbos are not as fragile as a lot of people seem to think they are. As anyone can see from my signature, I have a "little bit" of experience on the subject. The only hazard any shavings would cause would be if they got caught in between the turbine wheel and the housing. While I'm not saying it's impossible, the odds of anything as small as a drill shaving getting in this area and STAYING long enough to cause damage are slim. Whatever you miss should blow right on through without causing catastrophic damage.

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Will
'98 3500 24v, auto, 4. 10s, Poweredge EZ, K&N, Isspro Gauges
38' United Expressline
X-treme Gooseneck race car hauler @ 12000#

Other Bad Habit:
'87 Buick Regal
Turbo V-6 1400hp, 1200ft/lbs
4. 99 @ 142MPH 1/8 mile
7. 70 @ 179MPH 1/4 mile
And lookin' for more!

SO I'M A TURBO MAN... .
BOOST ON!
 
The only problem I can see from chips going though the turbo, and even this is unlikely, would be if you instantly floored the engine on start up and the chips hit the turbo while it was spinning at 100,000 rpm. I think that on your first startup after drilling and tapping that the chips are blown past the turbine before it even starts turning. In the unlikely event that a chip wedges between the turbine and housing you can release it by removing the turbo inlet hose and turning the blades backwards gently.

As for taping a magnet to a pencil or wire, I would be more concerned that the magnet might stick to the manifold and come off when you try to withdraw it,I've heard of this happening. Then you will have to remove the turbo anyways. Most auto parts or hardware stores have magnetic pickup tools that will fit down small holes. In a pinch you can even magnetize a small screwdriver and use it.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)
 
Thanks for the info and help guys.
The deed is done! #ad


Did not remove the turbo. I'm lucky in that my wife likes to help me out tinkering, so I had her hold the shop vac while I drilled and tapped. Started motor up at idle and sat for a couple of minutes before taking off up the road- all is well.

Showing 21 psi boost and 1100* at WOT w/stock engine.

Will make a couple of trips to check operating parameters before installing EZ I got from Barry (great price Barry #ad
)

I LOVE my Cummins #ad


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Deezul Doug-2001. 5 ETH/DEE,QC 4x4,3. 54 anti,
Tow/Camper,Westin SS Step Bars,relocated breather,
Autometer EGT and 35 psi boost gauges.


Tow #1 - 6x12 Interstate inclosed cargo trailer.
GVW 7500
Tow #2 - Starcraft camper trailer
GVW 4500

2001 Volvo S80T twin turbo
 
Have had a request to post turbo readings, so here they are:

Stock ETH, 62* ambient temp, 7000 ft altitude, running empty.

65 mph- 600*, 8 psi boost
75 mph- 800*, 10 psi boost

Pulling Monument Hill, started at 65 mph then floored the go pedal. Got almost to the top
going 92 mph and hit 1300* and had to back out of it.

I'm hoping the EZ install will change the timing enough to get the WOT temps down...
#ad


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Deezul Doug-2001. 5 ETH/DEE, QC 4x4, 3. 54 anti, Tow/Camper group, Westin SS Step Bars, relocated breather,
Autometer EGT and 35 psi boost gauges.


Tow #1 - 6x12 Interstate inclosed cargo trailer.
GVW 7500
Tow #2 - Starcraft camper trailer
GVW 4500

2001 Volvo S80T twin turbo
 
It seems to me that 'Post Turbo' vs 'Pre Turbo' sensor installation seems to be a continuing debate on the TDR.
I personally first installed my 24V EGT sensor 'post turbo, mostly because of ease of installation, however, I was also going to install a 'pre turbo'sensor along with a switch until I had pointed out to me that our company's two Internationals Diesels, and also our two 8. 3L Cummins Diesel fleet trucks all have 'post turbo' sensor gauges. The reason explained to me is because 'pre-turbo' sensor failures have resulted in exploding turbos=$$$= #ad
#ad
#ad

Therefore, for accurate 'pre turbo' temps, add about 400-450 degrees to 'post' temps and you WILL be safe!
Bob


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Y2K Awesome Black LB 3500 QC SLT, 24Valve ETC ISB, 4x4, 4:10 LSD, DTT Custom prepared Auto transmission VB, Power Edge 'EZ', DD2's, K&N, Polished Stull Billet Grill/Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges, Rancho 9000's, Diamond Plated Tool Box, + a bunch of other stuff. Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!
 
RobbyRam; You stated your company trucks had post turbo probes. Thats where a lot of Mfg. install them when they are fueled to factory spec,s. and a good driver can operate them safely. Your Ram I see is bombed to the hilt,and you are just guessing what your true EGT is. As the old saying goes close counts in horse shoes,hand grenades and post turbo EGT gauges. The chances of a probe failure is about the same odds as the driver being struck by lightning. Try a pre turbo and you will be a believer.
 
Not to change the subject, but I'm also torn between pre or post turbo installation.
Some guys seem to think post turbo is somehow less accurate than pre turbo. But I'm not sure why. . Or I haven't seen a good reason why. .

In my mind... . If you put both probe readings on a charted graph, post turbo will follow the pre turbo curve... just lower readings. How is this less accurate? How can exhaust gas enter a turbo at 1300 degrees and come out a fraction of a second later less than 900?
I realize it will have cooled some, but wouldn't this cooling effect be linear?

Additionally, having seen numerous installations both ways, it would seem as if post turbo is an average reading of all cylinders. Pre turbo readings would seem to be 80/20. 80% temp effect from the cyliner in front of the probe, 20% from the others.

Help me see what I'm missing here.
I know either method is better than having nothing. I just want what is better.

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98. 5' Emerald Green 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC 285-75-16's on Alcoa's. Everything but leather. PIAA 1200's, AMSOIL dual filter relocation system, Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner(Junk), AMSOIL air filter.
 
DEEZAL MAN;The theory of the turbo,as I have read in engineering data, is the turbine wheel is driven by to forces. #1=exhaust pulsations. (thats why we have divided manifolds and turbine housings,which gives twice the pulsations by seperating 3 cylinders from the other 3. #2= The turbine wheel also extracts HEAT energy from the exhaust flow to turn the wheel( more fuel= more heat=more turbine speed=more boost. That
is one reason the post temp. is a lot lower than inlet temp. In two major Turbo classes I attended ,this was the theory they delivered.
 
Deezal Man-

Generally speaking, pre-turbo is for bombing and post-turbo is for cool-down. The two probes would normally track linearly under "stead-state" conditions only. However, under hard acceleration, the pre-turbo probe will be much more responsive while the post-turbo probe will lag. This is because the turbo housing itself is acting as a big heat sink. Under idle conditions (after a hard pull), the post-turbo probe will actually stay hotter much longer as now the turbo housing is acting as a heat source (the engine exhaust gases will actually be warmed by the turbo).

I use mine for cool-down temperature monitoring, so I have a post-turbo probe mounted in the E-Brake elbow. I have thought of building a comparator circuit that will display the higher temperature between two probes, but since I have not modified the engine, I haven't required a pre-turbo probe yet.

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David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, HO Cummins (ETH), 6-Speed (DEE), SLT+, 3. 54 LSD, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Heated Leather, Sliding Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine + diff. temp. ), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, Tork Lift camper tie-downs, Mag-Hytec, Mopar Tow Hooks, AND functional Halo light!
Bigfoot 3000 10. 11 Slide-in Camper. "Do it in a Dually"
 
Read my post under "24V engine discussions" listed under Pyro install. The reason for the large tempature drop after the turbo is the exhaust side turbine housing absorbs alot of the heat and dissipates it to the engine compartment. The faster you are driving means more air will be forced into the engine compartment and aid in cooling the Turbo. Also, ambient tempature outside will affect this reading also. Thats why simply adding a few hundred degrees to the POST turbo reading is not accurate. Where Cummins and Cat mount there Thermocouple on there larger over the road trucks is totally irrelevant. We are driving pickup trucks, people seem to forget that. Over the road trucks and bulldozers dont have performance boost computers, Fuel controlls, and the stuff we put on. These things make the ISB do things it was never intended to do. That is why it is so important to monitor EGT's and Boost pressure.
Almost everyone on the TDR modifies there trucks for more power (Injectors, Exhaust, Induction, Power edge boxes, bigger turbos, etc). What this obviously says is that we feel Cummins engines need more power. In other words, We want to "Improve" the ISB, better fuel economy and more power. This proves a good point, why do people say that "Cummins mounts there Thermocouples Post Turbo on thier engines so i will too since they obviously know what they are doing", well if you believe in Cummins so much and think they know whats BEST for your engine, WHY ARE YOU MODIFYING IT IN THE FIRST PLACE!!, Obviously it's NOT how you want it. If it was, and you believed 100% that Cummins does everything right,you would not even touch your engine. your saying Cummins SHOULD have used bigger injectors, Cummins SHOULD have a bigger turbo, Cummins SHOULD have an adjustable fuel computer. , but they did'nt, so i will add one myself. BUT, something as simple as Thermocouple placement, you think "CUMMINS KNOWS BEST!", do you get my point.
Banks, Jannetty, TST, and others all say mount the Thermocouple pre Turbo, and alot of you say, "Thats wrong" but at the same time, you buy thier exhausts, injectors, computers, etc. I just dont understand the logic.
I think alot has to do with it is easier to mount the Thermocouple Post Turbo. Also, people are paranoid that the Thermocouple will catstrophically fail. As i mentioned in my other posting, The chances of that happening are so remote (Virtually Non-exsistant). I have never heard of it happening without an engine failure causing it. I have been asking all my Diesel Mechanics where i work, Nobody has ever heard of one failing, EVER. its just not going to happen. I can honestly say The only way that could break is if it was hit by something flying through your exhaust, like a valve fragment and if that happened, your turbo would be destroyed anyhow, along with your engine. The other thing is people are nervous about drilling and tapping there exhaust manifolds. Its really not that hard, and it is worth it in the end because you WILL be getting the most accurate exhaust readings possible. And the issue with metal chips falling in the manifold and going through the turbo and damaging it, using the vasaline and magnet deal will eliminate most of them and the few that remain are no big deal. I have installed Thermocouples on 3 Rams and well over a dozen other turbo Vehicles (Grand nationals, A twin turbo mustang, And several different pieces of heavy equipment). I never removed a turbo to do it. What little fell in will blow out the exhaust harmlessly. Just start the vehicle and within a few seconds at idle, it will all blow out. The RPM's are too low to cause any damage, the WORST a piece of metal could do at idle is jam the impeller. All you do is shutdown, remove the intake hose and turn the turbine backwards to dislodge it, you wont bend anything at such a low speed. If you are STILL nervous, take the 30 minutes or less to remove the turbo. No big deal. Well worth the simple, accurate EGT readings that in the long run, will save your turbo.
 
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