Remove the front differential carrier for pinion bearings replacement

[PWong]

Can I do it on my driveway?
Do I need the special tool to open up the housing as described in FSM?
What’s the steps to remove the carrier after pulling out the axles?

 

[TWebster]

If you've never done a diff before, and you don't have a friend around for advice on the gear fitment, you might be money ahead taking it to a diff shop and having them install the new bearing and seal and crush washer, and setting the proper depth for the engagement. Maybe some of the guys on here can walk you through it

 

[Bob4x4]

Removing the carrier is a cake walk,back off the adjusters-boom it falls out.Setting the pinion depth is the most important part.If you can do that the rest is easy.

 

[RPosey]

This is for 9.25" AA front differential

Things you will need: Torque wrench. Inch pound torque wrench for 15-25 inch pounds of pinion bearing pre load. Something to keep Pinion from turning while removing pinion nut. Access to press to remove pinion bearing (the bearing next to pinion gear).New bearings, new collapsible spacer. New pinion nut . Tighten in 5 # increments till 15-25 inch pounds is reached to rotate pinion. Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pinion rotating torque and never exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque or rotating torque is exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be installed.
Dial indicator for measuring ring gear backlash. Backlash is .005-.007 The final pinion rotating torque plus differential case bearing preload is: 25-45 in pounds

My friend worked at Cadillac dealership and he said they never changed the original shim factory installed for pinion depth. That has been my experience (not a lot) also. Not expert, but been there done that.

 

[PWong]

Thanks.
I have everything you said in my picture.

 

[PWong]

New bearings, new collapsible spacer. New pinion nut . Tighten in 5 # increments till 15-25 inch pounds is reached to rotate pinion.

According FSM, install new pinion nut and tighten to 200 ft. lbs first. Then tighten in 5 ft. lbs increments until desired rotating torque is achieved.
Is that true?

I'm getting close to start the job, still waiting for the spanner wrench 8883 and the rotating torque wrench delivery.

 

[Bob4x4]

According FSM, install new pinion nut and tighten to 200 ft. lbs first. Then tighten in 5 ft. lbs increments until desired rotating torque is achieved.
Is that true?

I'm getting close to start the job, still waiting for the spanner wrench 8883 and the rotating torque wrench delivery.

You don't need the spanner wrench,a punch of the correct diameter works better and is much stronger

 

[Bob4x4]

My friend worked at Cadillac dealership and he said they never changed the original shim factory installed for pinion depth. That has been my experience (not a lot) also. Not expert, but been there done that.

That's what we call flat rating............close enough if you don't take pride in your work.When you're all about the money

 

[NIsaacs]

That's what we call flat rating............close enough if you don't take pride in your work.When you're all about the money

Since the OP is not changing the ring and pinion and or gear ratio, I would recommend the same shim depth. Even if the original pattern was/is a hair off, you don't want a new pattern with old gears, leave them the same.

Just out of curiosity, why do you think the pinion bearings need changed, but nothing else?

Nick

 

[PWong]

Since the OP is not changing the ring and pinion and or gear ratio, I would recommend the same shim depth. Even if the original pattern was/is a hair off, you don't want a new pattern with old gears, leave them the same.

Just out of curiosity, why do you think the pinion bearings need changed, but nothing else?

Nick

That's what I was thinking and keep the original shim and not doing the pinion depth check.

A shop did my leaking axle seals and pinion seal around three years (50000 miles) ago. The noise from differential was there when I pick up the truck. They played with the pinion nut again and it's OK to go. Noise come back like three weeks ago and it's coming from the front pinion bearing at least and its obvious on coast, not that obvious on acceleration. After removing the front drive shaft and broke loose the pinion nut the noise is almost gone now. I still driving it everyday and monitoring the flange temp with an IR gun and it's OK.
At this point I think I just need the pinion bearings.