2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission removed bed to access fuel tank, now questions

[VolsFan]

As the title suggests, I removed the bed today to access the top of the fuel tank. A couple of months ago when I changed the shocks I noticed the fuel tank had moisture on the bottom of it but said screw it and put it on the back burner. Well the pot started boiling today when I smelled diesel real bad when getting back in the truck after letting it idle at a store, so went home and backed in the shop and started to remove the bed to better access the top of the fuel tank. After doing searches on here, it seems a common problem that the large nut that holds the fuel module gets loose, I could take mine off by hand, but the gaskets seemed fine. Its a greasy and nasty mess, Im gonna clean it up nice friday evening or sat morning. My question is, while I have the bed off, what else do I need to looks for? Im gonna tighten the nut up as best I can and run that sucker around before I put the bed back on to make sure I fixed the leak. Also, I saw a lot of posts where guys put in draw straws, what is this and do I need one? Truck has 198k and change and has went through the carter lift pumps and now has been running a ddrp on the rail for past several yrs with zero problem and no draw straw. I am also going to swap out the fuel tank straps, the front one is very rusty, scared it may rust thru. And clean the frame up while im at it. Wont be able to respond til fri evening, sat morning, out of town again as of tonight. thanks in advance.

Rick

 

[JayStraight]

Check out www.vulcanperformance.com for the selection of Draw Straws... . from what I understand it's really not necessary unless your running a huge, fuel-thirsty lift pump. But see for yourself... ... . I see you have a Vulcan Big Line kit, might not be a bad idea!

 

[mwilson]

Another reason for a draw straw is to replace rusted out factory connections at the top of the sender/pick-up unit.



I have installed two of them for just that reason.



While you have the body off check your rear spring shackles for rust through. Also check the brake line tubing, famous for rusting in behind the fuel tank. No better time then right now to replace the lines with the body off and the fuel tank dropped.



Mike.

 

[hcole]

VF, I just got through pulling my bed off to get at the intank pump the dealer installed under warranty in 2004. I have a Holley on the rail to help the intank pump and my pressure fell to about 3 lbs. the other day. I thought the intank pump had quit but after pulling the pump module, I discovered the pump screen on the module had completely stopped up with what looked like an asphalt substance. I then decided to take the pump with the built in screen out and put a piece of 3/8" rubber hose in its place. I figure I'd rather buy a new fuel pump than a VP44 if it injests grit or asphalt. It apparently hasn't affected the VP44 with the low pressure. We have one of the few engines in our trucks that you would rather sacrifice the fuel pump than risk the tank screen stopping up and destroying the VP44. I've ordered one of the DDRP pumps to take the place of the Holley on the rail. If I were you, I would check the screen on your intake while you had the module out.

 

[VolsFan]

Thanks for the replies. Found the leak on the return fuel line at the metal 90. where the hard plastic line met the metal line was all corroded. I put stiffeners in both plastic lines and just clamped a rubber hose to the existing metal 90's. stopped the leak. Also had my fuel module out and it was in perfect shape, no junk in the tank that i saw or in the screen, looked like brand new. Truck runs fine and fuel pressure stays normal. I also am working on taking rust off the frame while im at, makes me feel better. Ordered a rear fuel strap from dodge, and 8 new bed (box) bolts. Still debating whether or not I should stop being a cheapskate and get the draw straw to eliminate the metal 90's. I cut the clip style connectors off the plastic fuel lines, does that matter for the draw straw to work?

 

[MHalloran]

While you have the bed removed take a good look at your brake lines & also your fuel supply/return lines. If you see any rust or corrosion NOW is the time to replace them while the bed is off. Much easier to work on from above..... I did mine...

 

[VolsFan]

Finally got everything buttoned up today. I put in the draw straw and am sure glad I did. I deleted all the metal fuel lines. Feel better that I dont have the half a$% setup I have pictured. I also changed out my rear brake lines, thanks for advice. Got the bed back on with no issues, hope i never have to do that again, alone anyways. Also seems like my fuel pressure increased a little bit, and I even installed a fleetguard inline filter before the lift pump that I have never had before. Not sure if its just because I havent driven the truck in a few wks and am so used to driving the gutless ford and chevy gassers at work, but it seems to have a little more throttle response, probably just imagining things, all in all, pleased with how everything turned out.

 

[Grizzly]

How many bolts to remove a long bed? My cousin has a 99 1500 long bed Dodge, gasser, and needs to remove the bed to replace the fuel sending unit and maybe fuel pump.

 

[mwilson]

How many bolts to remove a long bed? My cousin has a 99 1500 long bed Dodge, gasser, and needs to remove the bed to replace the fuel sending unit and maybe fuel pump.

8 Bolts total, 4 in the rear (2 per side) in the spare tire area. 2 amidships (you can see the mounts in the picture above) and 2 in the very front of the body.



Unplug tail light harness at rear junction. Remove torx screws that hold the fuel filler neck to the body. Assuming that he does not have a fifth wheel hitch that should be all that is involved.



Mike.

 

[jeepit]

When I had my bed off I wish I would have looked into possibly cutting a hatch above the fuel module. It could be hinged with a latch to hold it closed and trimmed with a rubber seal. Then, if or when, I would need to get in there again it would be an easy fix.

 

[Grizzly]

8 Bolts total, 4 in the rear (2 per side) in the spare tire area. 2 amidships (you can see the mounts in the picture above) and 2 in the very front of the body.

Unplug tail light harness at rear junction. Remove torx screws that hold the fuel filler neck to the body. Assuming that he does not have a fifth wheel hitch that should be all that is involved.

Mike. [/QUOTE

]

Thanks Mike, george

 

[VolsFan]

Jeepit, I wanted to cut a door in the bed over the fuel module as well, but a bed crossmember is in the way, didnt want to cut that up