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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Removing AFC Cover?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Starter Problems

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) starter spacer

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Has anybody figured out how to remove the AFC cover without taking off the air intake manifold or horn or whatever it's called?
 
Never thought it would be worth the aggrevation - easier to take the intake connection off. I don't remove the shutdown sol. tho - just swing it out. Craig
 
Just wondering, Craig. Seems like some guys slide those covers and plates around more often than some of us change our shorts. :-laf Thought maybe somebody might have figured out a shortcut. Oh well, never hurts to ask, eh?
 
It seems a pain to me too. I have to remove the last three injector lines and the main one from the fuel filter to get the break off screw out. I still havent had a whole day to tackle it in case something goes wrong. But once the break off screw is off it seems like I will have enough room to pull the cover off without pulling anything else off. Any suggestion are welcomed on getting the breakoff screw off with out taking everything else apart.

Thanks,

Doug
 
I took a small chisel and used it to turn the break-off screw until I could take it off with my fingers. Replace it with an allen head screw and you can just slide the allen wrench between the injector lines from then on. Easy as pie. ;)
 
I tried the chisel trick after attempting to use the torx bit without removing any fuel lines while trying to get to the break-off screw. Didn't have enough room. :rolleyes: Had to pull them.
 
I used a #2 phillips to spread the inj. lines a tiny bit and used a long 1/4" bit to drill just the head off the tamper screw, blew the chips away and removed the rest of the screw after the cover was off. It was way effortless! I replaced the screw with a phillip head. Craig
 
Thats weird that you guys would be having issues with AFC removal without removing the intake. I am running the Twin ram intake and I can get my AFC housing off in 5 minutes with my ball end 5mm allen. I junked all my stock housing bolts for some nice, easy removal allen head bolts. I thought I had to remove the intake to pull the housing off but tried it in a hurry plate adjustment one day and now, I do it all the time. :D
 
Get a SHARP chisel and smack the tamper screw from the side, the head will shear off. Remove the AFC cover then remove the stud with your fingers. Go to a hardware store and get a allen head screw to replace all 4. Then you can use a ball head allen wrench to loosen and retighten with ease.
 
my instructions

i adjust my plate all the time all i do is loosen the hard boost line on the back of the AFC 1/2" wrench, then take the 10mm bolt off the dipstick tube and slide the tube toward the valve cover, then remove the top rear flat head screw, then the two 8mm bolts off the bottom of the AFC, swing the shutoff toward the fender and pull the thing out of there.



now the first time Fulmer showed me the tricks. he used a chisel to loosen the tamper screw and told me i didn't need a screw in that hole. he also showed me that if you very carefully pry aganist the hard line in front of the AFC before you start to remove every thing that would give enough clearence to remove the AFC when te time came.



that Jim is a great guy!
 
What's the difference between a ball head allen wrench and a "regular" allen wrench?



As long as we're on the subject of the AFC cover... Has anybody had his CHROME PLATED? :eek:
 
Ball Allens allow you to work at various angles while still being able to apply a pretty significant amount of torque without rounding out the bolt.
 
RT66DOC - You can pickup a set of these at Sears (Craftsman) or just about any tool store. I saw the long set of "Allen" brand at Lowe's the other night for about $9. Get the long ball allen set and the wrench will fit between the fuel lines for easy removal and installation of the top right bolt.



The allen head bolts that came with my TST kit were 4mm allen.
 
Thanks Jack. I'll check Lowe's - 5 minutes away.



Stock bolts - as JGheen said - M6x1. 0.

Top - 16mm long

Bottom - 25mm long

Torque plate bolts - 12mm long.



Credit Joe Donnelly for this info. I copied it from one of his posts about the same topic awhile back.
 
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Found the info on another thread



Originally posted by Joseph Donnelly

Stock are M6 x 1. 0 thread. Top ones are 16 mm long (18 will work, but 20 is too long). Bottom ones are 25 mm long. Torque plate bolts are 12 mm long.



Am headed there myself. Out sharpening the chisel.



OOPS. Now if I'd seen that this thread had a second page with the bolt info..... yea yea, measure once, cut, swear up a storm.
 
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I bought a brand new chisel specifically for this purpose. Thinking about using it once to whack off the AFC cover then putting it in a little trophy case to hang on the shop wall.
 
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