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removing/changing dually wheels

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I've never taken rear dually wheels off. I was told that the inner wheels "slide off" after the outer ones are removed. Is this correct, or is there anything more to this procedure?



Thanks!
 
Originally posted by GFritsch

Tips on airing up the inners? Rotation Tips?

Thanks in advance



Dude, not to be rude, but you just hijacked my thread. Do a search, there are tons of threads on airing up the inners and rotation tips.
 
Tips on airing up the inners? Rotation Tips?



Yeh, air them correctly BEFORE you put them on. I didn't do this and had a hassle afterwards... Doooh!



Make sure the valves are aligned together, like they are before you take them off. Swap the valve extensions. The rotation pattern and tire pressure are in the owners booklet.



Have fun. :)
 
Thanks OTD. I have experience driving with training wheels, but this is the first one I have to maintain.

Greg



BTW Patriot blue is by far the nicest color available--JMO. This color is almost exactly the same color as my 94. Had to do something dff this time.
 
PCarbonaro-

There should be two small studs coming out of the hub that are used to align the wheels upon reinstallation. Make sure the studs line up with the holes in the rims, or things will be askew. Or do the 2nd Gens even have the alignment studs?



The valve stems should be 180deg apart if installed correctly, with 2-3 threads showing at the end of the lug nuts after tightening.



Daniel
 
Originally posted by dpuckett

PCarbonaro-

There should be two small studs coming out of the hub that are used to align the wheels upon reinstallation. Make sure the studs line up with the holes in the rims, or things will be askew. Or do the 2nd Gens even have the alignment studs?



The valve stems should be 180deg apart if installed correctly, with 2-3 threads showing at the end of the lug nuts after tightening.



Daniel



Dan, all went well. No need for aligning studs that you mentioned. I didn't make the valve stems 180 degrees apart, as I thought I read that everyone just "lines them up. " (unless you meant they should be pointing in opposite directions, which they are)



Paul
 
That's right, some of the newer ones have outboard drums, and thus the wheel sits against the drum, not the hub, like in my inboard drummed :mad: 1st Gen. therefore there are no mounting studs. The studs I was referring to are on the hub itself; permanent.
 
PCarbonaro, I realize that you have already removed & replaced the duals, but this is just a thought to prevent future headaches. I apply anti-seize to both the hub and each dual wheel where they go together. This prevents rust from making them almost impossible to remove. Being from Jersey I'm sure you get your share of snow/salt/ect.



Al
 
Originally posted by metal tech

PCarbonaro, I realize that you have already removed & replaced the duals, but this is just a thought to prevent future headaches. I apply anti-seize to both the hub and each dual wheel where they go together. This prevents rust from making them almost impossible to remove. Being from Jersey I'm sure you get your share of snow/salt/ect.



Al



Al, should I apply the anti-seize to the studs too (where the studs enter the hub?). And there is a good deal of salt in NJ--rusting is a problem, that's why I drove to the south to get a salt-free truck.



Paul
 
I do Paul. I also use a torque wrench when reinstalling the lug nuts and they don't loosen up when using the anti-seize. I do this to prevent problems, it works for me.



Al
 
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