Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Removing Check Valve In New Trans Cooler Line

[ProMac1K]

I just got the 94-95 trans cooler line for my 97 so I can install a trans temp gauge. I was wondering how to remove the check valve in that male end of the rubber hose. Is their any trick to it or am I just that stupid? Looks like it would maybe thread out. I've had a screwdriver in there trying to push or turn it out, but no luck. Any suggestions?



Also I had to get an male/female adapter fitting to thread my sender into so I could thread it into the port on the line. The port hole is larger than the sender is. Is their any certain depth or area that the sender has to be in to accurately read the temp, or will the port area just fill up with the fluid and show the accurate temp? I think I was reading something about this in the archives, but I forgot what the conclusion was.



Thanks

 

[ProMac1K]

Found the answer to my second question. Looks like i'll be ok there. I'll post the link here for future references.



Transmission Temperature Probe

 

[ProMac1K]

I found the answer to my first question too.



Transmission Line w/ Sender Port



I took a drill and drilled up the check ball. Then I took a dentist pick and pulled the spring out. Then I just took a large welding rod and tapped the seat out. It took a little doing to do this. I first tried breaking up the rubber ball with a screwdriver but the screwdriver just slipped on the ball and went to the side.



After dinner I will go out and take the old line off and put the new one on. Hopefully everything will go well. Can't wait to see that gauge work. I Love Gauges!!!

 

[ProMac1K]

I got the line on after a little mess. I took the transmission end off first, and set a can under the port in the line of fire of the fluid. Next I went up to take the heat exchanger end off. I got a suprise. I was reading somewhere on here that fluid is only supposed to come out of the transmission end, and only about a quart. Well fluid was running out of the port in the heat exchanger, all over the garage floor. I quick pull the can over to that leak because it was faster than the other leak. I get up and grab another can to put under the other leak. Out of that I got two paint cans worth.



After several minutes of dripping, i'm ready to put the new line on. A bunch of swear words and shop towels later (also mud in the eye), I got the line started on both ends and tightened on both ends.



Then I figure since all of that fluid drained out, I might as well change the fluid. I had already grabbed a filter at the parts store and some quarts of fluid so I figured I was good. Loosened all the bolts so they're finger loosenable. Then I start removing the back bolts to find more steady runs of fluid to the floor that won't let up. Quick grabbed the ratchet and tightened up the bolts to stop the fluid.



What i'm wondering is, is the check valve on the heat exchanger bad so all of the fluid is draining back into the pan, causing this rush of fluid out wherever it can go? Or am I just dreaming? Why is the fluid running out this fast? The fluid also seems pretty hot for having the truck off for several hours.



What am I supposed to expect when I try to remove the pan bolts?

 

[Missouri Mule]

TMaas,

I like to help but you will probably find the answer before do.

 

[Extreme1]

Well, it's like this: When I change my trans fluid I have at least 10 quarts of fluid on hand (that's the average amount it takes). I also have a large drain pan and let it drain overnight.



I recommend adding a drain plug to your pan when you have it apart, less mess. Before I had a drain plug, I would loosen the pan at a corner in order to get the fluid to come out in 1 spot.



The reason the line drained from both ends is because the cooler has a bunch of fluid higher than the outlet. Aren't siphons fun?

 

[ProMac1K]

I got it done last night. I think I put about 10 quarts in and it's up to level. I will check it again to make sure. As of now, no leaks to be seen so that's good. I wrapped the sender fittings with teflon tape for a leak-free connection. As I understand, those line fittings were flared so they needed no sealant.

 

[GrantP]

TMaas - I installed the same line on my 97. The old line that I removed had the check ball in it, so I left the check ball in the new line. I thought only the 98. 5 and up didn't have the check ball in the line? Did your old line have the check ball?

 

[ProMac1K]

#@$%!



Now that I have time to look at the old line, there is a check ball in the rubber hose. Is that going to be a problem that I took that one out? It must have not been clear in the archives that these year trucks had the check balls.



Just for reference, the hottest temp the trans fluid has gotten to since I put the gauge on is about 175 degrees unloaded. For some reason I don't think the sitting in the traffic effected the temps to much, I think it was mainly "stopping then getting up to speed" that raised the temps. ??? Down the road the temps weren't much, around 125. Also it took a good amount of time before the gauge read any temp, so the fluid didn't warm up very fast.



JFR,



Trever



Edit: Now that i've tooken my truck out more i've got a new hottest temp. I was doing some offroading through the gravel pits in some mud and water, and I got up to the yellow on the B&M gauge. It was about 235 degrees at the max. That's not bad though.

 

[inarush76]

The check ball is in all models. It was moved to the fitting in the heat exchanger when the rubber line was eliminated. The check ball is there to reduce converter drain back when truck sits awhile with engine off. The down side is the ball serves as a bit of restriction to cooler flow(also is lube for planetaries) and can stick and cause NO cooler flow. I remove ball on ever one I do, with DTT valve body there is cooler flow in park so converter drainback is not so much an issue as with OE valve body. After truck has been sitting for a while, start truck, put in neutral, allow 30-45 seconds or so and converter should be full and you'll be ready to go.

As a reminder, always check fluid in neutral, park brake on, and look at both sides of stick and go by lower side as the correct reading.

HTH

James

DTT builder/installer

 

[ProMac1K]

Thanks James! No problems so far. No leaks as well.



Got another question, not pertaining to this. How hard is it to change a torque converter on one of these trucks, and how long of a job is it? I've changed a converter on a 72 Chevelle with a TH350, but the engine was already off. Is it more cost effective to throw a converter and valve body at it or do the whole thing at one time? The word "DTT" is still in the back of my head. Wish I would have saved that money from those antique tractors I sold. :{



Thanks

Trever

 

[Fred Swanson]

Like James said, I remove all check balls from the fittings, and the cooler line hose.

 

[GrantP]

Well shucks Fred - You could've slipped me that info when I bought the line from ya... .

 

[MPancerella]

Don't know if i'm doing this correct. ??? 96 4 spd outo Pac bk BD trans lock 3/4. 3. 54 rear4" exhaust. Banks upgrade 245hp. Pull traiker total GVWR 20,000. In slow town / uphill towing Trans temp 250-260. . highway speed 135-170. Is it possible to put a thermostat cooler in series with quick disconnects added to existing system. . Thanks MPancerella