Removing Exhaust Manifold

[CLAYTON]

My father in-law just got the SRT-10 pillar with the grab handle and a autometer ultralite egt gauge... we are going to do the install tomorrow (12-26-04). We want to put the probe where the 5th and 6th cylinder meet in the manifold. To make the install clean we would like to take the manifold off to be able to drill where we want to. Any tips when removing it? Should it bolt back up just the same that it came off? Are there any gaskets that we need to worry about? Any info would be great... Have a great Christmas (at least what's left).

 

[ThomasLawrence]

Getting the manifold off is a minor pain in the posterior... mainly due to the heater hose bracket that sits on one of the mounting studs on the back of the engine. A better approach, and one that's a lot easier to do, is to drill/tap the manifold right above the turbo flange, in the runner that is fed by the #5 and #6 cylinders. This way, all you need to do is drop the turbo (which you'd have to do to remove the exhaust manifold anyway) by loosening/removing the four bolts (two from above and two from below). You just need to lower the turbo enough to slip a piece of cardboard in-between the manifold and the turbo, to catch the shavings and prevent them from entering the turbo. Drill and tap your hole, blow all the shavings off the cardboard and out of the manifold, pull the cardboard, and bolt the turbo back up.



But, to finish answering your question, yes, there are six steel gaskets between the manifold and the head - they can be re-used if they don't get mangled. You'll want to remove the right-front wheel, and plastic liner, in order to get better access to that heater bracket. It can be pulled/pryed off the mounting stud, but it's really not fun to do. Beyond that, removal is fairly straight-forward, and since it's a one-piece unit, it will bolt right back up once you're done.



-Tom

 

[JTurk]

Tom has it dead on. I did mine back in August when it only had about 5K on it. The gaskets dropped free and went back perfect. I did pick up the turbo gasket just in case and did replace it. Basically, I did a little reforming (bent the sucker) of the heater pipe bracket just sufficient to clear the stud. Actually, getting it back on the stud was as hard as off, but IT CAN BE DONE. I drilled and tapped both channels going into the turbo. I put the pyro in one and use the other to monitor output pressure.

The worst part of the whole job for me was the gravel driveway. Haven't had a vehicle in my garage in over ten years! Also, all of the scratches healed in less than two weeks with no scars!!!

Jay

 

[CLAYTON]

We'll give the dropping the turbo down a bit and putting something there to catch the shavings route. Thanks for the input.

 

[jsimpson]

You don't need to drop the turbo. The shavings will blow out when you crank it up. K. I. S. S. !

 

[DF5152]

I did mine without dropping the tubo also and i am very anal about stiff. I had someone use a vacuum as i was drill the whole and use grease on the tap to catch any material while i was tapping the threads. I use a magnet after and got no residue on the magnet...



check my web page for a few photos



Dan

 

[CAKUZ]

Just a reminder;

If you do decide to remove the manifold, make sure you disconect the neg. battery cables first as the front stud is close to the "hot" altenator post. Accidently short it out and you may have to replace/repair the altenator. I called those Dodge engineers a few choice names when removing the hose clamp too.

 

[Blakers]

You can drill it with the engine idling and the exhaust pipe 3/4 taped over. The engine will blow all the cuttings out. When you tap the hole, put some grease on the tap.

 

[BStoecker]

You do NOT need to remove the turbo to remove the manifold. I pulled mine without doing this. Just take off the 4 nuts holding the manifold to the turbo, then pull the bolts that hold the manifold to the motor. Remove the tire and liner as well to get better access. I just said screw it and hit that bracket with the sawzall. A simple and permanent fix.



If anyone installs the ATS 3-piece manifold, remember to put the nut onto the front passenger side stud FIRST! After you put any other bolt or nut on, you will not be able to slide the nut for this stud in there. It binds up on the new manifold. There is room on the stock manifold, but the ATS is a little wider at that spot. Learn from my mistake... Oh, and make sure you use the correct size drill for your probe... (oops. )

 

[Yo Hoot]

Look up the hoot method

 

[jelag]

The last thing that's not said... I've never had a stock manifold off one of these engines and put it back on... they are so warped that once you pull the bolts off... they bend out of shape... . bolting them to the head has held them in place... I had one of my trucks that broke the back 4 bolts... . Do as they suggest... drill it in place... or expect to buy a new one if you remove the stock one... . One nice thing about a new one from ATS or BD... they are drilled and taped for that PYRO probe... .

 

[cerberusiam]

LOL, talking about rising from the dead. This thread is 9 years old.

 

[RVTRKN]

Learn from my mistake... Oh, and make sure you use the correct size drill for your probe... (oops. )

I was amazed when I saw the date on this thread, it was before I joined TDR in 05.



Yup, make sure you have the correct drill and Tap, I purchased my EGT probe from PLX and the threads didn't look right, so I tapped a block of aluminum first and my suspicion was validated when the probe went in 3/4 of the way hand tightening only. It turned out not to be 1/8 NPT but was 1/8 BPT (British Parallel Pipe Thread), I sent it back and was replaced with the same threads. They advertised it as 1/8 NPT, but I refused to believe it was, even when they told me it would work and they had no complaints. I ordered the correct tap and used that, and it fit like a glove. The complicated EGR and tighter fit with the 6. 7 turbo was why I was so cautious before I altered my stock engine.

 

[Yo Hoot]

My truck is an 04 with aftermarket performance stuff and a stock ex manifold. 138,000 miles.

Had to change the turbo to ex manifold gasket . The only way to get the turbo off is to unbolt the ex manifold. I did that..... very concerned that I was going to have big problems.

Once I broke all of the ex manifold bolts loose I was relieved as every bolt was able to be unscrewed with my fingers. That told me I had no warping.

When I re-installed it, I was able to get the bolts started with just my fingers.

Here she is all bolted back up...

#ad

 

[Bob4x4]

The last thing that's not said... I've never had a stock manifold off one of these engines and put it back on... they are so warped that once you pull the bolts off... they bend out of shape... . bolting them to the head has held them in place... I had one of my trucks that broke the back 4 bolts... . Do as they suggest... drill it in place... or expect to buy a new one if you remove the stock one... . One nice thing about a new one from ATS or BD... they are drilled and taped for that PYRO probe... .

With all the many 3rd gen manifolds I have removed none have been warped or had any bolt issues with the exception of a few that have been worked very hard or very high mileage

 

[Yo Hoot]

I replaced a motor in a Chevy truck with a 350 gas motor. I had to jack the manifolds with a little machinist jack to bend them out so I could get the bolts in.

 

[Bob4x4]

I replaced a motor in a Chevy truck with a 350 gas motor. I had to jack the manifolds with a little machinist jack to bend them out so I could get the bolts in.

I have made jacking bolts do do that same thing. Save some money on an old work truck