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Removing Intake Heater Grid?

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Does this 'GDP Heater Replacement Block' replace the grid heater so as the truck will no longer have a grid heater?



I am looking for a way to disable the heater as I am really tired of the load the dang thing puts on the charge system. I have no need for the lights too dim and go bright in a 10 second cycle, very irritating.
 
I do not know of a way to keep it from storing a code, but if it is any assurance, it will not set a check engine light
 
You won't trip codes. I didn't realize the cable wasn't hooked up until one cool morning and 2 hard starts later. Happy thats all it was.
 
I Dont Have Grids And The Truck Fires Right Up, 9 Deg With 63lph Injectors Without The Block Heater, It Clanks And Bangs For A Second But Then Clears Right Up, No Lights Or Codes On The Scanner
 
Does this 'GDP Heater Replacement Block' replace the grid heater so as the truck will no longer have a grid heater?



I am looking for a way to disable the heater as I am really tired of the load the dang thing puts on the charge system. I have no need for the lights too dim and go bright in a 10 second cycle, very irritating.



Yea it replaces the whole thing. Here is the link: Glacier Diesel Power - Product Detail
 
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I Dont Have Grids And The Truck Fires Right Up, 9 Deg With 63lph Injectors Without The Block Heater, It Clanks And Bangs For A Second But Then Clears Right Up, No Lights Or Codes On The Scanner



9 deg? Has anyone else used a truck through the winter months and been as far north as Indiana/Michigan?



I know some guys trucks that won't start WITH the intake heaters functional in temps like that (probably due to gel in the fuel lines).



I've really contemplated removing mine just for the hell of it, but figured it would be much more beneficial and easier on my truck if I just kept it where it's at. But if people are doing this and using their truck daily in cold weather... maybe I'll consider removing it... .
 
I started mine all last winter without grids and no block heater. About a month was temps in the 0-10 area in the mornings.
 
Or you can cut out one of the 2 elements, like I did. It cuts the air resistance in half, and the battery drain in half, starts perfectly, no codes. The wires are still hooked up, so you can't tell from the outside.



I cut out the lower element, so the air has more room to turn into the manifold.
 
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Or you can cut out one of the 2 elements, like I did. It cuts the air resistance in half, and the battery drain in half, starts perfectly, no codes. The wires are still hooked up, so you can't tell from the outside.



I cut out the lower element, so the air has more room to turn into the manifold.



Would you be willing to show how you did it? Would you happen to have pics (that would be great!)? If you removed one of the grid heaters (did you just cut it off or what!?), where do you remove the electrical connection to it? You said that the wires were still all hooked up... . so I'm confused. Is the electrical connection to the grid heater that is removed broke once you remove it?



Thanks for your help! Sounds like a heck of an idea to me!:)
 
I started mine all last winter without grids and no block heater. About a month was temps in the 0-10 area in the mornings.



No kidding? I'm not from much farther north than you (Angola right now). I've been hesitant because if I jump right from ignition on to start (without doin the preheat cycle) in 20 degree weather, the truck starts a little harder and jumps around for the first 10 or 20 seconds trying to get proper combustion to occur in each of the cylinders. Just a little more smoke and rough idle, but nothing major. I just thought it might be easier on my engine (less carbon) if I kept the intake manifold heaters. Have you noticed any other effects? What's the coldest temps you've started your truck in?



After the last post, I'm thinking about just cutting one out... . even if I decide I dont' like it, they're cheap to purchase used on eBay... . !



Thanks for the response!
 
Would you be willing to show how you did it? Would you happen to have pics (that would be great!)? If you removed one of the grid heaters (did you just cut it off or what!?), where do you remove the electrical connection to it? You said that the wires were still all hooked up... . so I'm confused. Is the electrical connection to the grid heater that is removed broke once you remove it?



Thanks for your help! Sounds like a heck of an idea to me!:)



The wires outside are still hooked up. On the inside, one of the two bolts that holds the toaster grids in place, comes off easily ( I think this is the ground connection, just loosen it, and it has a slot that slides off). The other one is a pain to remove, so I used the tin snips to cut off one end. It's been this way for about 3 years. At least the wait to start light still does some heating. Sorry, no pictures, but once you take it off, it's pretty self explanatory. Then pull out that one grid.

And I think there are a couple of ceramic insulating blocks around the element, that also came off if I recall. Not 100% sure of that though. Just make sure they cannot fall into the engine.
 
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