Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Removing pre-filter assembly

[gcorron]

OK guys, I've run into a "bit" of an aggravation here. #@$%!



How much trouble is removing the pre-filter assembly and here's why:



Joe G, whose advice is better than gold as we all know, sent me his excellent write up when I found my heater leaking, BUT... .



Whoever installed this thing at the factory LOVED his job.



8mm allen will NOT go in, OK, just barely lower is a 5/16, which also won't go in, OK, 7mm then, nope, too loose, same for 1/4 of course. Not a newbie to mechanics, am trained on BIG diesels.



Am likely going to bypass the entire !#@%&*&( for the time being, but would like to keep it in line if possible, but it will have to come out and be placed in a vise, or drill press to remove the damned bolt holding the leaking heater in line. If I could get a hammer and cold chisel up there, problem solved, but there just ain't that much room so putting it on a bench is likely the best solution.



I was able to jack the truck up very high, slide over the transmission lines and almost get a straight shot up into the bolt, tried to drive both 5/16 and 8mm allens up into it enough to get a grip, but still no success. Yes, if it weren't a fuel component, I would weld a nut to it and OUT IT WOULD COME, but REALLY hate to set the truck on fire!!! :-laf



Anyone else have this problem or does DC just hate me?



And to repeat the original question, how much trouble is removing the assembly from the truck? Does the entire lift pump have to be removed or can it come out as an assembly?



Thanks a bunch,



George

 

[BTanzini]

The pre filter bracket goes between the engine block and the lift pump,I had problems with the allen wrench going into the opening the first time I did it also,it is at a slite angle and tight, it will go. Why remove the pre filte-heater out of the loop? I took the 90 degree hose between the two loose from the prefilter and ran directly to the lift pump.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Sounds like there's been moisture in the line in the past and rusted the doggone thing. I'm pretty sure the allen key is metric but don't recall the size. Yeah to remove the whole darned thing you gotta take the bolts out that mount the LP to the block.

 

[Kawi600]

I did a conversion on my truck and re-routed a bunch of the plumbing. I replaced the metal lines with hydraulic hose and replaced the fittings on the lift pump with push-lock. The heater/filter goes on behind the lift pump, you could even just remove the thing outright. Its a pain, but you can do it.

 

[vaicase]

when i put a new fuel pump on. i thought about removing the heater housing. but i put it back on,and i bypassed it. i run 1/2 inch lines all except out of the p7100. thanks

 

[sleon]

removing pre filter

Hi G corran



I followed Joe's instructions as you did. Same problem. Take a 8 mm allen wrench and make a few passes on a grinder and it will work perfect. You just have to tweak it a little. Sleon

 

[gcorron]

Thanks for all the replies guys, I really appreciate them.



I'm not throwing it out completely, but it will be bypassed for the remainder of the winter, too dad burned chilly out there to lay under a truck unless you HAVE to!!!!! :-laf



That's why I buy automatics, 1- I drive sometimes in very heavy traffic and get tired of "rowing" my way to and from work, and 2 - EVERY clutch that EVER went out on me did so with snow on the ground and wind blowing!!!#@$%!



I don't fix automagics, so if they go out, they go to a fella with a nice warm shop and a rack!!



Thanks again, this forum, and you guys are great!

 

[KCanepari]

These are the answers I've been looking for. there's no reason to mess with the pre heater at all, just bypass it. there's a filter in the tank and a screen in the lift pump, no reason for another filter. I really like the hydraulic hose idea.