Removing the steering stabilizer shock

[BNH4221]

Hi all,



As a shadetree mechanic I pride myself on doing as much work as I can on my truck.

That being said, I cannot, for the life of me, remove my old steering stabilizer shock. Specifically, the bolt that goes through the track bar.

Man, did DC ever get this thing tight!



I have hosed it with PB Blaster and let it soak. I have heated it with my plumbers torch (I called myself a shadetree mechanic for a reason). I have tried to twist it with a pipe wrench and I broke the wrench. And I have beat it to death with a 5 lb mallet, all to no avail.



Any hints or suggestions before I give up and seek professional help?



Thanks -



Steve

 

[WoodChuck]

Kick it, kick it, kick it!! LOL

Just kidding, I did mine a while back but the truck was less then a year old. I remember it wasn't easy but it popped out. I'm not even sure how I did it but I think I beat it out with a hammer.

 

[BNH4221]

4 years and 80k miles and that sucker is not gonna move. I beat on it with a 5 lb sledge and it didn't even budge. :{



I BROKE a pipe wrench on the darned thing and it didn't budge.



Anyone got a small nuclear weapon I can borrow?



Steve

 

[JDerbedrossian]

You need to hit it with a hammer(few times) right here where the hump is and it should pop out.



Jake

 

[LBARTLETT]

Jake's right, I changed mine Monday, 170k on the factory stabilizer, hit it, pipe wrench, etc etc until I hit it just right and it popped out and fell on the ground

 

[Wingate]

Sounds like it needs a "moral booster" from a good hammer. Seriously, you might try heating it with the torch again, and after getting it REALLY hot, "quench it with a NON-flamable penetrating oil. Just don't use anything that has a flamable propellant. I use this method on taper fit joints, extremely tough pipe plug threads... etc... .

Good luck!

 

[BNH4221]

I'll give it a try. I have an appointment with the local garage on Monday to have them try to remove it. I hate to lose to a rusted old bolt #@$%!

I have been beating on it with a 5 lb sledge with no results. Perhaps I need to hit it in a different area.



Thanks for the help. I'll let you know if it works. I like the heat it and cool it quick idea too!



Steve

 

[Bob4x4]

Do not heat steering parts! If the hammer did not work it may be due to the impact being spread out because you have slop in the other steering parts. If that is the case pull the entire steering lingage off and replace it with the newer style.



Bob

 

[BNH4221]

Bob,



Thanks for the heads up. My steering is in pretty good shape. No slop in the action, relatively new ball joints, tie rod ends and all that.



I just think the pin is seized up in the hole. I was lloking for creative ways to remove it. I think I will just have to take it to my local garage where they are better equipped to deal with the problem.



Steve

 

[Wayne M.]

Definetly hit it like Jake said. I usually try to back it up with a hammer on the other side- maybe held by a helper. Jake, I love the truss on the front axle!



BTW, what are we using for a replacment?

 

[BNH4221]

Wayne,



I bought and installed the Defiant Steering brace and bought a Defiant steering stabilizer as well.

The brace went in without a hitch. Easy as pie to get it in.

The stabilizer, well, not so much.



BTW, Paul at Defiant is great to work with. He picked up the phone promptly, got my order out, paid for shipping and called to make sure it had arrived on time.

Great customer service!



Steve

 

[Bob4x4]

Definetly hit it like Jake said. I usually try to back it up with a hammer on the other side- maybe held by a helper. Jake, I love the truss on the front axle!



BTW, what are we using for a replacment?

That pic is of my truck and truss





Bob

 

[JDerbedrossian]

Jake, I love the truss on the front axle!

Wayne thats old school, check out the high clearance version we have now..... look closely its hard to tell.





#ad


#ad


#ad

 

[FFeiller]

i used a gear puller on it and it came out without a problem. i tried prying, a 5 lb hammer. but the puller smoothly did the job

the bolt is tapered.

 

[Jeepr]

Yes, hit the track bar on the side of where the bolt goes through... with another hammer behind (I know, it's been said), amazing how it will fall right now.

 

[cruiser_2]

get a pickle fork and it will pop right out. Pickle fork is just what it sounds like is a 2 prong fork made in a wedge and you beat on the end of it and it will wedge the joint out.

 

[MoparBob]

get a pickle fork and it will pop right out. Pickle fork is just what it sounds like is a 2 prong fork made in a wedge and you beat on the end of it and it will wedge the joint out.

X2 on the pickle fork. Nothing else worked but it popped right out with the pickle fork.

 

[BNH4221]

get a pickle fork

You know, great idea. Banging the crud out of the bolt and/or the bar didn't work. I might just have to invest in a fork.



Plus, its another excuse to add to my tool collection!



Thanks guys,



Steve

 

[Wayne M.]

Wayne thats old school, check out the high clearance version we have now..... look closely its hard to tell.





#ad


#ad


#ad

That looks real good, though I like the "old school" look too! I often wondered, what is the material of the tube ends, or what the ball joints fit into, and what is the welding process. Is it the same for the whole run end to end?

 

[JDerbedrossian]

That looks real good, though I like the "old school" look too! I often wondered, what is the material of the tube ends, or what the ball joints fit into, and what is the welding process. Is it the same for the whole run end to end?

No it is not the same, I think its cast and I am not sure what the process is to weld but I do know it is different.