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Replace Rear Axle

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I'm looking at replacing the entire rear axle on my 93 2500 with one from a 2003 truck. Idea is to get disc brakes, this would rediuce me crawling under the truck regularly to adjust up the existing drums, and simplify maintenance. Frame widths and spring perch appear the same.

E-brake: not going to use (I use a 'micro-lock' on all four wheels now - the E-brake didn't hold when recovery winching stuck chevys)



Question is ABS: My truck has the single diff mounted sensor, 2003 has twin wheel (hub?) mount sensors. Do we hook one up (as suggested by local Dodge service tech) or can we get rid of the ABS totally... . i. e. remove 'extras' below master cylinder and light bulb from ABS on dash?



Next, Master cylinder. Some say original works, others say no. Has anyone tried this? Is there a replacement that is compatable with the disc brakes and the vacum booster on the truck (I wondered if maybe a master from a 2003 gas-burner?) Or an upgrade to a later year boost-pac. . ?



What do you all think, headed for trouble or is still as simple as I first was thinking?!?!
 
If your just after disc brakes id look around on the internet for disc brake conversion also some of the 4x4 magazines , but my guess it would work the new axel id wire both together some how or just by pass it altogether
 
One dumb question ??? Why do you have to always adjust your brakes ?

If you rapidly pump your brakes when backing up your brakes will adjust unless your adjusters are not working .
 
Adjusters don't work - matter of fact 3 out of my 4 dodges don't, as well as about every buddies dodge or older chevy that I hang with. Tired of crawling under every month or two. That and easier to replace disc pads than drop drums, bearings etc.

As for the conversion kits, was trying to get more for less. Less dollars and a whole new(er) axles to replace a 300,000 mile towing heavily in the mountains one. Local diff guy already said that if we upgrade/replace diff, the shafts are needing replaced also.
 
I have not had a problem with them , ive had to file a littel on the stars before , but i never had to pull the drums to adjust the brakes , my only issue really has been the hub seals of which i started useing speedy sleeves to remedy that , new danas are being advertised in the crate from dana so they may have disc brakes on them now ???
 
The ABS can be disabled by disconneting the box behind the glove box and removing the ABS unit on the driver side frame rail above the rear axle. You don't have to remove the rest of the stuff under the hood. IIRC, thats the proportioning valve anyway.



Without ABS you don't need the diff sensor and the wheel sensors can just be removed.



Thats not a diesel diff if it has wheel sensors though. The diesels had the ABS sensors on the diff. Do you know what size the axle is? Likely it is from a gasser and probably a 10. 5 AAM axle. The 11. 5 axle is heavier but maybe don't need it for weight.



The axle is wider than your stock one and will require 17" rims if it has the larger disk brakes. The backspacing is a lot different also, about 2" more on the newer trucks.



If you wanted to make sure you had full effect braking you could add the hydro boost system off of the later trucks. Not sure how much you actually gain\loose with rear disks and the standard MC. It will be short of volume but most of your braking is done by the fronts anyway.



The big question is whether the larger brake cylinders are going to be too much for the MC. The conversions use a smaller caliper so they are closer to the same requirements. A lot may depend on what size of brakes this diff actually has.
 
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