Replaced headlight switch...

[Bluebird]

Headlight switch died last night It had flickered a few times over the last month, I'd tug on the switch, they would come on, anyway switch failed. I bought the new switch at NAPA part #HL6548SB, I followed the factory manual. Undo negitive battery cable, remove steering column covers(top/bottom), instrument cluster bezel/frame, headlight knob (push button, pull-out), power mirror box, unscrew switch nut, pull-down switch under dash-replace. Works like a champ Just my $. 02 hope it helps someone in the future, Patrick.

 

[1stgen4evr]

new switch

I also use NAPA parts and this is no way about them. You didn't do enough. The switch will fail again unless you install the (Dodge recommended) upgrade that includes a relay to take the load of all the extra fender, tailgate and cab bulbs that these trucks have. The original switch must be the same as what Dodge uses on the half ton plain jane trucks with very few extra lights. I am sure you noticed that the switch is somewhat of a load center for all the cab power. Most everyone has or will have trouble with the switch. There is a service bullitin on the problem.



There is also a weakness with the on off switch. Feel under the column below where the switch is after the heater/AC blower has been on high for some time. You will likely feel that the plastic cover is hot and you may have noticed the smell of hot wires. This system also needs a relay to take some load off the switch.



I also installed a completely seperate system to power the trailer lights so as to keep some load off the inadequate headlight switch.



James

 

[CLiberty]

I also use NAPA parts and this is no way about them. You didn't do enough. The switch will fail again unless you install the (Dodge recommended) upgrade that includes a relay to take the load of all the extra fender, tailgate and cab bulbs that these trucks have. The original switch must be the same as what Dodge uses on the half ton plain jane trucks with very few extra lights. I am sure you noticed that the switch is somewhat of a load center for all the cab power. Most everyone has or will have trouble with the switch. There is a service bullitin on the problem.

There is also a weakness with the on off switch. Feel under the column below where the switch is after the heater/AC blower has been on high for some time. You will likely feel that the plastic cover is hot and you may have noticed the smell of hot wires. This system also needs a relay to take some load off the switch.

I also installed a completely seperate system to power the trailer lights so as to keep some load off the inadequate headlight switch.

James

Do you have a P/N for this relay kit? Running my lights thru a relay are on the to-do list but if there`s a "plug n play" kit for it all the better. I did a relay setup on my 86 gasser and voltage at the headlights went from 11V to 13. 2V... quite a difference in brightness, AND no load on the switch.

 

[Greenleaf]

Simply installing a relay that you purchase from any store that sells auto electrical products. I get mine from a bus body dealership as the buses have more relays than Paster Bob could shake his stick at.



There are different styles of relays. At this moment I don't have a P. N. but could obtain it. I have many relays here at the shop.



-S

 

[Bluebird]

HL switch relay...

Thanks for the information, I would like to know what relay to install. I'll also check the resources for the service bullitin. If anyone knows the link to the service bullitins that would help. Regards, Patrick.

 

[Greenleaf]

A typical relay



Spade #86 is the signal power. It WAS the power wire to illuminate the lights. Now all it does is activate the relay you installed.



Spade #85 is the relay ground terminal. Connect to ground.



Spade #87 is the terminal that supplies the power TO the load. In this case the headlamps/marker lamps etc. What ever you desire the relay to power up.



Spade # 30 is battery voltage. This would be a wire directly from a main power source. You could connect this spade to the battery with an in-line cercuit breaker or fuse. I like breakers. You need a fuse or breaker a bit higher than the load ( the amps ) required to operate the load.



Now, when you turn on the switch, in this case the HL switch, the switch will only serve to power up the relay. The relay will now transfer the battery voltage/amps TO the load. NOT THE SWITCH



SWEET!!!!!!!!



You can use a relay for anything. I'd like to install one that washes and waxes my truck.



GL

 

[1stgen4evr]

PN for headlight switch upgrade

The actual switch is still the same. Or I think it is. But the kit includes some wires to use if your old ones are burned and a new plastic mulit-connector block. If it is still available from Dodge the number is 1-CAJM8190 and another set of numbers that may be important. They are 23489A. There are no instructions as to what the various spades are or how to connect anything. The info that GL furnished should get you going but again there is a service bulletin from Dodge that has the instructions. Seems like those service bulletins are on TDR somewhere. But I don't know. AlData is where I have seen them.



The kit is definitely NOT plug and play. There is a bit of cut to fit and weld to suit involved. So you might be just as well off to take GL's advise. And as he stated, use one that is adequate for the load.



James



Edit: look under website features which is on the header line and you will see TSBs in red (which means only members can access that) and I am sure you will find the service bulletin.

 

[Paychk]

Recall #918



http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/819.htm



with install procedures, anyone handy with automotive wiring could build their own kit.

 

[Greenleaf]

I found a number on a relay just like I installed. BOSCH # 0 332 019 150





-S