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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission replacement front 4X4 Dana 60 axle??

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Grid solenoid specs?

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gtwitch

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Has anyone put a later (2000-2002) Dana 60 with CAD into a 1999 3/4 2500 I need to know if this a problem. I have a 1999 and the CAD is acting up and I cannot get the Right axle bearing/hub out of the knuckle (badly rusted and worn out parts on the CAD and seal problems). I think I can get a later CAD axle and was wondering if there are problems putting this into the 99. Don't know if there is a secret to getting the axle bearing holder/hub out?? I have Quad 4X4 10 page guide and the left side came out and back in after new Cardon Joint (u-joint), but, the right side is giving me fits!! Any IDEAS??

gtwitch in wyoming
 
There are a few tricks to popping the unit bearing hub out of the knuckle. If you've got any idea that you want to reuse the hub, don't put a puller on the wheel studs. You'll be pulling through the bearing race and stand at least a fair chance of ruining the bearing, if not pulling it apart.

The trick that I usually use (for any Dana front axle with unit hubs,) is a socket & extension. Loosen all of the bolts, and spin them back in for good thread engagement. Have your buddy start the truck (he'd better be trustworthy...) and have him/her gently roll the steering left or right while you hold the socket on the head of a bolt and the extension so it'll butt up against the inner C of the knuckle. Might take a few tries to find the right spot & right extension. Once you have the right spot, it'll only take a bit of movement to pop the bearing out of the outer knuckle. Once it starts moving, it's usually pretty easy to get it out the rest of the way.

Another way is to use a couple of sacrificial bolts (or cap them with a sacrificial socket,) and use a light sledgehammer to knock it loose. Me, I find the power steering trick easier but that requires 2 people.
 
You should be able to just repair your Dana 60 using above process. Plus spray lots of liquid wrench. And if that doesn't work, there is always the trusty "blue tip wrench."

If you choose to replace the axle, it is a pretty easy swap. You will have to replace your tie rods because 00-02 axles have a different taper. Your will also have to replace the control arms and drill out the brackets at the frame, due to the larger bolt size. You may also need to replace you sway bar end links. One benefit of the 00-02 axle is that you can install 2010 brakes.
 
Solid, one piece axle set is the simplest method. I bought both from a company for around $600 bucks, they were Mosers. A set of 1 piece Moser 1.5" axles is much stronger than any of the OEM axles.
 
Texis, Are you saying that I can buy a 1 piece axle to go in the right side of the 99 CAD axle and be done with the CAD setup?? This sounds good to me!
gtwitch in wyoming
 
A few companies make them. I will probably go with yukon, because it moves the seal in, like the driver side. Only down side is that your drive shaft and transfer case will spin full time without some sort of a free spin kit. The ford conversation is by far the best. Way better brakes and cheaper.
 
Yes you can stick a in 1 piece axle in the existing housing. But you will loose some degree of turning smoothness because your differential stays fully engaged. The front diff is an open carrier, meaning no posi so it doesn't hurt it. Chevy and Jeep made a lot of 4WD set ups like this on their full time 4WD systems in the 70s, so it's doable.

As JMcCoy mentioned, the axle seal will be relocated into the front pumpkin. Driving the old seal out is interesting, which is located near the CAD. The axle housing will fit a 1.5" diameter axle on both sides if your interested in a serious upgrade. You can also go to 35 splined axles buy just changing the side gears in the differential (as I did). 1.5" 1 piece 35 spline D60 axles and your done for life, no matter what abuse you have in mind LOL. I found the 35 spline side gears for around $30 bucks each on line used.

You will need to remove the differential ring gear and carrier to accomplish this. But no adjustments are required, as you will be changing nothing in the ring and pinion set up. 4 bolts to remove it, tap in the new seal, stick the ring and carrier back in and torque to spec, nothing to it.
 
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I agree with everything Texas said, except loosing some degree of turning. In 2wd, the solid axle will go unnoticed, just like 3rd Gen Dodges. The only difference is the turning drive shaft. That said, I like free spin hubs.
 
Thanks for all the input! After considering all above and cost, and getting it apart without the "the blue tip wrench" I was able to find all new parts and I am on the way to get it put back together stock with CAD, thanks to all the information here at TDR and the help from Dan the GearMan and the folks at Quad 4X4 in Montana!!
gtwitch in wyoming
 
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