Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Replacing carrier bearing

[Rhondasway]

I'm on a roll with all my new projects, so am giving your brains a workout!

Here's the next question: How do I replace the carrier bearing, and is there a good source for them? I've searched here but didn't come up with instructions. I'll take it to a shop if necessary, but you know how I hate to spend money on something I can do myself! I am determined to get rid of a shake I've had for about 3 years and have done just about everything else...

Gracias!

 

[B.G. Smith]

If you have access to a bearing splitter and a tall press you can do the job yourself. Otherwise I would take it (the drive shaft) to your favorite shop who has this equipment. I believe the bearing is held in place by something they call a slinger, (small metal ring) which has to be pressed back on as well as the bearing. Most people on here call it the carrier bearing but real name is "center support bearing". Fortunately a search for either will usually bring up both. I would think with all the smoke that truck creates that you would probably need a better bearing than the original if there is such a thing. I saw some reference to a urethane mount but don't now if that would be available for your application. bg

 

[fest3er]

If you have access to a bearing splitter and a tall press you can do the job yourself. Otherwise I would take it (the drive shaft) to your favorite shop who has this equipment. I believe the bearing is held in place by something they call a slinger, (small metal ring) which has to be pressed back on as well as the bearing. Most people on here call it the carrier bearing but real name is "center support bearing". Fortunately a search for either will usually bring up both. I would think with all the smoke that truck creates that you would probably need a better bearing than the original if there is such a thing. I saw some reference to a urethane mount but don't now if that would be available for your application. bg

Getting the bearing off isn't very hard.



Bearing splitter: a Dremel with composite disc to cut a couple slots in the race 180 deg. apart and deep enough, then apply a cold chisel in each slot with a hammer to split the bearing. The slots must be deep enough for the chisel to push the sides of the slot apart; the point of the chisel shouldn't touch the race. Note that this only works on bearings on a shaft; it won't work for a race inside an opening (like a wheel bearing).



Pressing the new one on can be done without a press. Lightly anti-seize both surfaces and carefully, gently, tap it into place with a soft rod (bronze, oak, 2x4, etc. ) Tap around the race less than 180 degrees so you don't rock the race in one place. And don't tap too hard.



Your call, though: DIY, pro, or half-n-half.

 

[kenny61]

I gotta do mine. I checked with my buddy at the local auto parts store he had one in stock and said it was around 35 bucks

 

[HLEschenko]

I am in the middle of rebuilding my Dana 70U differential due to howling.



After removing the axles and differental cover, the ring gear and LS (limited slip) assembly come out after removal of 4 bearing cap bolts. This whole assembly is basically wedged into the differentail housing and took two short bars to pry it loose. It weighs approximately 50 pounds.



Next out came the pinion shaft, a 3/4" breaker bar, 3 foot cheater, and a 1 5/16 inch socket accomplished this. All pinion bearing cones (2 ea) were removed and new ones were installed. This is where I stopped for the day.



I've got about 1 hour of actual work time on the project and alot of time reading, thinking about what's next, and finding work around tools to accomplish the next step.



A case spreader would be nice. I got the bearing kit from Randy's Ring & Pinion. The Differential Experts. Auto Parts & Services. . The disc and plate are now on order.



The cause of the rebuild; failure of the disc and plates in the limited slip assembly. Once the plates go metal to metal, the bearings begin to go. All bearings (4 ea) showed damage. The carrier bearings are the worst.



If I do the job again, I will order both the bearing kit and disc/plate kit at the same time. Live and learn.

 

[kenny61]

we talking the driveshaft bearing or differential bearing?

 

[Extreme1]

A case spreader would be nice.

Not necessary. When I installed my screaming deal of a limited slip carrier, I just tapped it in with a dead blow hammer. I had borrowed a pair of set up bearings in order to get the backlash right and had it in and out a few times. The last step was installing the 'real' bearings and putting it in one more time.



While you have the carrier out you could drill and tap the case at the bottom of the 'sump' where all the crap ands up. I never knew it was there until I had mine apart. I put a 1/8" allen head pipe plug in there (flush with the bottom) so when I change the fluid all the bad stuff comes out.

 

[BarryG]

When I replaced mine I took it to a good local driveshaft shop. The guy suggested using a 3rd gen truck bearing (I could be wrong it may be a 4th gen) as the newer design is much better. Only problem I had was you needed to weld on a sort of extension (just a piece of bar stock) to the existing bracket/support that holds the bearing as the bolt holes dont line up between the two and it needs to be a bit wider to accomodate the new bolt pattern. I would have done it but I was in a severe time crunch and needed the truck badly and couldnt take the time to go find a welder to do the job. The guy showed me the newer version of the bearing and it does appear to be a better design.

 

[Rhondasway]

Okay, according to Mr. Smith it's a center support bearing, the rubberized part that bolts under the bed that the rear driveline goes through on its way forward. A transmission shop I spoke with priced it at $225!!!! They'll throw in installation... I gotta check around and see if that's right. Ugh!

 

[kenny61]

Okay, according to Mr. Smith it's a center support bearing, the rubberized part that bolts under the bed that the rear driveline goes through on its way forward. A transmission shop I spoke with priced it at $225!!!! They'll throw in installation... I gotta check around and see if that's right. Ugh!

I just priced one at the local auto parts store last week I need to do mine. It was around $35. 00. this is for the driveshat support bearing Rock auto has a few diffeerent models listed from 20 - 59 bucks

 

[B.G. Smith]

Okay, according to Mr. Smith it's a center support bearing, the rubberized part that bolts under the bed that the rear driveline goes through on its way forward. A transmission shop I spoke with priced it at $225!!!! They'll throw in installation... I gotta check around and see if that's right. Ugh!

Advance Auto Parts That's probably figured on about two hours shop labor, I think it's like $85. 00 hr. here. I think I could do it in that length of time rolling around on the driveway and I'm 75 years old. I had one replaced somewhere years ago and they removed it like stated above, by cutting the metal sleeve and knocking the old one off with a punch. This particular mechanic had an old driveshaft with a piece of pipe welded on the end the correct size to fit over the end of the spline and drove the new one on with that. Went pretty smooth. bg

 

[Rhondasway]

Upon further speaking with the shop, the bearing is cheap but it's my rubber mount that's got play in it and the source of the problem. I did watch the guy shake it (took more strength than I have). Apparently that part only comes as an entire assembly, thereby costing $225. He said they're not charging me labor because he didn't get back to me when he said he would. I do get free stuff sometimes...

He also said something about maybe having to replace one U-joint. They want to give me a greasable type, but I've been recommended Spicer non-greasable (they'll give me that if I want). I figure if my stock non-grease ones have lasted these miles with that power/tq, greasing must not be that important...

 

[kenny61]

The carrier bearing only comes as an assembly with the rubber around it. I went to my parts store yesterday and while the Dollar price quoted was for the wrong one and he had to order in the other one it is still under 50 bucks. The following is not a picture of the proper one and I do not know what year your truck is but if it looks similar it is only a $50 part at most. I suggest you go to your local auto parts store or even dealer and get a price for the bearing

#ad

 

[kenny61]

Got the proper bearing today it was $55. 00. Just trying to decide if I will cutt off the old one or lug the assemby down to my buddies house and use his press.



Part number was a federal mogul hb-88108-d

 

[Rhondasway]

I took the driveline (out of truck) to Drivelines Northwest in Seattle today and they did it for $120-some bucks including tax and labor. The part (bearing and rubber mount) was $93 and $20 for installation. Saved a bunch of money and had a great time BSing with them! :-laf Can't wait to get it back in and see if it cures my shake! Will post when I know.

Thanks everyone for your input!