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Replacing clutch hydraulics with Perfection pre-filled unit ( PF9064 ) review

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Timken Clutch Release bearing, NV5600

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I want to write how nice the installation of this unit was particularly with the excellent video that Perfection has created. The unit itself seems good quality with aluminum cylinders and stainless. But the video including the disassembly of the clutch pedal position sensor made the removal of old and installation of new worth every penny. Only thing that didn't make sense to me was the location of two fir clamps already on new assembly. They don't seem to match up with anything, but the video directs to reuse the keepers already on the body and so they aren't needed. Nice job Perfection.

Sven
 
Can't do any better than video with regards to photos, but I uploaded one. Don't know about the new unit, but the factory unit or at least the reservoir from factory unit had "Made in France" stamped on the side. The old unit was leaking at master to the point the springs inside clutch pedal position switch partially deteriorated. I cleaned out the switch which otherwise seems good and will order identical springs from McMaster-Carr before putting together.

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So after nearly 5 years ( as of October '23 ) this unit stopped building pressure. Only signs of leak were at the master pushrod on the inside of cab. I can't see the extent of fluid leak and hard for me to gauge how much lower the reservoir than normal. The Perfection PF9064 has a rubber insert for reservoir that I'm guessing prevents overfilling. I foolishly thought I could add more fluid and bleed with a friend, but the procedure isn't working and I found the below video which shows what looks like much better techniques. Question for the seasoned salts among you... am I wasting my time trying to refill and bleed a unit that I'm guessing stopped building pressure because of a slight leak ?



Sven
 
I wouldn't mess with it. When they gunny sack, they are done. They don't seem to have a very long life span. My '01 has had 4 or 5 in 366k miles.
 
Verk,

That was me in both videos. 1st glad it helped. 2nd I retired in 2019 from Perfection.

Now the big one, if you have found a confirmed leak, not good. Fluid can get out can also let air get in bad news. somewhere in the bleeding video I bet I showed the master cyl being tipped to let the air go up and out thru the reservoir. that technique WORKS.

The rubber boot has the same function as any DOT 3,4 reservoir has. It seals off air to fluid but the bellows allows fluid level changes w/o popping the top and not allowing air with H2O in it from contaminating the brake fluid.

Gary
 
@GCroyle , great video for bleeding and installing clutch master / slave cylinder setups. Lots of detail.

@NIsaacs , it is always interesting as to why some components last longer on some trucks and not on others. I have had the opposite experience as you. My truck is still using the original hydraulic clutch master / slave cylinder system at 378,000 miles. Go figure.

- John
 
Verk,

That was me in both videos. 1st glad it helped. 2nd I retired in 2019 from Perfection.

Now the big one, if you have found a confirmed leak, not good. Fluid can get out can also let air get in bad news. somewhere in the bleeding video I bet I showed the master cyl being tipped to let the air go up and out thru the reservoir. that technique WORKS.

The rubber boot has the same function as any DOT 3,4 reservoir has. It seals off air to fluid but the bellows allows fluid level changes w/o popping the top and not allowing air with H2O in it from contaminating the brake fluid.

Gary
Thanks for replies.
@GCroyle , great video for bleeding and installing clutch master / slave cylinder setups. Lots of detail.

@NIsaacs , it is always interesting as to why some components last longer on some trucks and not on others. I have had the opposite experience as you. My truck is still using the original hydraulic clutch master / slave cylinder system at 378,000 miles. Go figure.

- John
Thanks for replies. Interesting to hear John. I assume you've had to add fluid over the years ? Perhaps staying on top of fluid level and avoiding introduction of air allows one to continue with small leaks a long time ? Curious how many miles on your original clutch ?

In trying to bleed mine yesterday I noticed vaporization ( brake fluid in the air ) so my unit is definitely shot and I'll order a replacement.
 
@GCroyle

@NIsaacs , it is always interesting as to why some components last longer on some trucks and not on others. I have had the opposite experience as you. My truck is still using the original hydraulic clutch master / slave cylinder system at 378,000 miles. Go figure.

- John

Exactly, my '91 I have changed once, 334k miles.
 
I assume you've had to add fluid over the years ? Perhaps staying on top of fluid level and avoiding introduction of air allows one to continue with small leaks a long time ?

If anything, I should have had a much earlier failure. I lost the reservoir cap about 15 years ago and couldn't find a replacement. The only thing that separates the fluid from the air is the rubber boot floating on top of the fluid. Obviously, the boot has been doing its job. I have only added a small amount of brake fluid just once through its life and it really wasn't necessary.

Curious how many miles on your original clutch ?

297,000 miles on the original clutch - pilot bearing failed and got spit out and did some damage to the pilot shaft bearing area on the transmission input shaft. The clutch disk was at the end its life, but still functioning as designed. As hindsight, I should have done a replacement clutch about 50,000 miles or so earlier - then I would not have risked the damage to the transmission input shaft.

Because of the damage I caused on input shaft, I am going to replace this clutch at around 150,000 to 200,000 miles of operation. I will do it sooner if anything changes with the clutch operation.

- John
 
So glad I noticed this thread since it resurfaced at the perfect time! While trying to chase down a squeak and creaking sound while pressing the peddle, I noticed quite a bit of seepage. I need to address it before it leaves me stranded somewhere.

I checked out the link posted above and have a couple questions for the gurus. Sometime around 2012 or so, I had a shop install a South Bend clutch and ditch the dual mass flywheel on my '09. They insisted I "upgrade" the hydraulics, so I went with . Now that expensive upgrade needs replaced! Was it really necessary to "upgrade" the hydraulics, or did I waste money? Will replacing with the Perfection one throw the earth out of orbit? I would like to know since the ones I've looked at are over $300!!
 
Stainless braid and hose chafed 34" from clutch slave at location where hose transitions from horizontal to angled vertical ( up the firewall ). I've installed some split wire loom at this location ( photo embedded ) on the replacement. Finding was tricky because it only revealed itself when bled so as to be able to generate pressure with the pedal and bleeding a system with a hole doesn't work so well :). After I replaced with identical unit I bench-tested per the Perfection bleed video above which made it much easier to realize what was happening.

Sven
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@verk , it is always good to find cause and effect. Good work on your part.

I have never been a fan of external steel braided hoses. The very thing that is supposed protect the hose is what ends up damaging the hose. Once the braided wires break, the sharp ends of the braid become the enemy. Sometimes they break just from repeated normal movement, they don't necessarily have to chafe against something.

Probably, one of the reasons my system has lasted for so long is that it is a rigid plastic hose (of course, everybody hates plastic) without steel braiding.

- John
 
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Rubbing like it was, it would have worn through much sooner without the steel braid. It was routed and secured poorly.
 
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