Replacing front rotors, tips???

[Bluebird]

I will be replacing both front rotors, got a warped one. I have ordered them from NAPA. They come complete with bearings, hub and stud assemblies. Any tips on getting the job done right? I know I can look up spindle bolt torque and procedure, however I would rather ask here because y'all respond with great answers



Thanks in Advance, Patrick.

 

[cerberusiam]

You can replace just the rotor easily and not have to buy the hub, bearings, etc. Is there a reason to replace all that instead of just the rotor?

If you have a complete hub\rotor assembly thats pretty simple, pull the dust cap, remove tha cotter key, castle nut, and washer then the whole asembly comes off afer removing the caliper.

Replacing the rotor is a bit more involved but relativelt simple. Once the hub\rotor is off lay it on a couple wood blocks with studs up. The hub and rotor is seperated by driving the studs thru the rotor and out of the hub. The have knurlings that set into the hub and rotor. If your careful using a drift pin you reuse the studs.

 

[NIsaacs]

Be careful with the complete assembly, they might be the wrong ones. I think the light duty (non diesel) front axle uses this style.



Nick

 

[Simplysmn]

Just make sure it's for the 4500 lb axle you will be fine

 

[Bluebird]

You Cats are the best. I called before picking anything up. They had the wrong rotors, got the right ones now. I'm replacing the the complete rotors because I had a few studs that kept stripping lug nuts. 'Cuz I'm a bum... what's the first torque setting and then the procedure to back off the spindle nut? Thanks a million. TDR, I keep telling everyone I meet with CTD.

Patrick.

 

[HHhuntitall]

IIRC, and the method I use, is torque it forward around 90 ft lbs, turning a little if it will, than back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. If it's new bearings, I'd suggest 1/4 turn, then you'll have to check in around 5k miles, next oil change, somewhere. I may have to be tightened at that point, after the bearings seat and wear in a little, maybe quicker, depending on how it wears, what quality bearings they are..... you get the idea.



Lazy bum.



I want to be lazy, too, but just too tight to be too lazy.

 

[RSchwarzli]

Amazing the knowledge of this site eh?

 

[Bluebird]

Thank you HHhuntitall, and of you Great Knowledgable ones! The lazy bum just didn't want to get out the big Blue Book Scriptures...
I'll post after install... Truck still stops. Uh, kinda pulsating, and not in a good way:-laf

Patrick.

 

[HHhuntitall]

:-laf I call it "fighting back!!!" Converstion goes like this in the cab:

"Oh, you wanna fight back do ya'?!?!? Here, chew on this!!!!" :screachingnoise: "Oh, you'd better not stop now!! I'll drive you 'til you fall off!!!!!!"



Ok, so now it's warped on the other side... . now it's pulsating twice as fast.....



OHHH!!! And then you gotta love the warped rotor new in the box from Orielly's... . Fights back now more than it did before I "fixed" it!!! GAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!

 

[Bluebird]

Long story now! Picked up rotors. Checked parts with VIN at NAPA. States correct parts. I ask for a new bearings inner/outer. Get the parts listed, the bearings are TOO BIG for the races both sides. I measure the new hub with a mic=3. 0, measure the hub on the truck=3. 2. What's up? Wrong part I guess, or are the new rotors, (from Mexico) just made with less material? No, I have not disassembled my truck to compare, that measurement was enough for me, I don't want to be stuck without my truck. Now, what do ya "Think. ?"
Could I just emery cloth/disc, or turn my rotors and hope the warp goes away?

Patrick I did not bring home the wrong stuff...

 

[cerberusiam]

Patrick, the rotors are seperate from the hubs. Unless you have seized a bearing and spun it your hubs are likely fine. You just need to source the rotors, they should all be the same for the 250/350 trucks where the hubs are different. They tried to give you the hubs for the lighter front end. They need to source them for the 4500 lb axle or they won't fit.



Find a brake\alignment shop that sells Raybestos parts and get their rotors. You should pay $120-140 for JUST the rotor but it won't warp in 5k miles like the cheap ones. These trucks have so much weight on too small rotors in the front that if you don't get the good ones they kill them fast.



You can likely reuse all your wheel studs also. They just drive out the babk of the rotro\hub assembly. Check your wheel bearings, you may not even need them. Save the $$ for a complete assembly and buy the best rotors and replace bearings\seals in your existing hub if needed, you will be much happier.

 

[GCroyle]

Replacing front rotors, TIPS?

You did ask for tips, right?



Here's my Tip O' The Day.



Install the pads with the friction material facing the rotors friction surfaces. Been known and proven to be quieter, qucker and smoother stops. It's on the internet, gotta be true.

 

[NIsaacs]

Be careful with the complete assembly, they might be the wrong ones. I think the light duty (non diesel) front axle uses this style.



Nick

I don't think you can buy the complete assembly (hub & rotor) for the 4,000 lb axle (D-250 diesel) the W-250 (4x4) diesel uses the 4500 lb axle. The D-250 gasser uses the one piece hub/rotor combo (3300 lb axle) The Diesel option D-250 is the same axle as the D-350, just make sure you get SRW rotors in case they try to give you dually fronts. If you need studs just replace them now since you have to drive out the old ones anyway. When you re-install the new rotor to the hub, set the hub outer face down on the old rotor, then you can drive the studs back in. Use a big drift punch and heavy short handled hammer and hit them suckers hard. No tapping



Nick

 

[HHhuntitall]

I don't see any reason why you couldn't have them turned, as long as they are not too thin. If they've never been turned before, I'd think they'd be more than fine. I get Orielly's to turn mine for free as long as I buy the brake pads to go with them. It's been my experience that turned rotors run truer than new out of the box ones, by far. I've had mulitiple sets that are warped, or warp shortly thereafter, out of the box. Even the Borg Warner or Bosch premiums, from time to time. Turning is the most effecient method, IMO. It's just hard if it's your only ride, I know. Worse case, find a used set in a bone yard and get them turned, then you have a spare set... .

 

[spikeman2000]

Don't laugh!! I have seen this!! Also have seen the brake quiet put on the friction side of the pad!! "Why won't my car move??" duh..... ,,,spike...

 

[Greenleaf]

I have two D250's and some years ago, I replaced my rotors on one of them. Along with ALL the other parts too! The machicne shop did the work as the studs are removed and pressed back in. Anyway, he turned them to true them as they warp when you press the studs in. All was fine for a short time, but they were soon warped. I don't know how, but it wasn't due to abuse. I have to live with it as I'm not about to go through all that again.



The other truck, the one I drive all the time, needed pads. I thought about "doing it right" and pulling everything apart, cleaning/packing bearings etc. etc... ... ... ... . I figured it was *my* ride so I just threw on pads and new calipers as one was leaking. I tell ya,,,,,that thing has zero warpage and don't rattle the windows and bounce like a ball when I apply the brakes. The rotors are ugly, but they work great!!



I hate doing things right. Costs way too much time and $$$ but that is what I normally do. I'm a bus mechanic, so I "have" to spend too much time and money for any task.

 

[cerberusiam]

Anyway, he turned them to true them as they warp when you press the studs in. All was fine for a short time, but they were soon warped. I don't know how, but it wasn't due to abuse.

Cheap chinese junk rotors, they are EVERYWHERE. Best results I have ever had are the Raybestos premium line. Anything else is a crap shoot.



The fact they needed to be turned after installing the rotor would have stopped the whole process for me right there. If they were warped after install, they were warped out of the box and too cheap to use. The tight fit is the stud into the hub, the rotor is held to the hub with a tapered spline, the wheel and lug nuts tie it together. They don't warp on install if the rotor is good material and the mating surfaces clean and flat.



The cheap rotors simple will not last on these heavy front end trucks. They warp almost immediately and turning just makes them warp faster. Just throwing shoes on even a torn up rotor is better than the cheapies.

 

[Greenleaf]

Well, all that makes sense Alan. I knew I couldn't have done any better of a job. Too bad too. I have gotten so used to pushing my glasses back up, onto my nose after each stop, I do it in every vehicle I own. LOL



All my pieces parts for the old girl(s) chassis, I get from NAPA. You would have thunk they would be better than the less-er priced Autozone parts... ... ... ... ..... Durn-it.

 

[cerberusiam]

The standard NAPA line is no better than AutoZone, O'Reillys, etc. Just cheap junk for the masses. The premium line used to be decent quality and better than OE at times. Even that quality has slipped with the increased prices in metal. NAPA unfortunately is having to cut corners to meet expectations. Not happy at all about it as that was a primary source of parts.



The last 2 sets of rotors\drums I have bought have been right a $150 per unit. Anything less than that and I never had decent mileage out of them. The $60 rotors last 5k miles and they were warped. I have a Raybestos on the 92 that has 2 rivet grooves cut into it from shedding the brake pad and it works fine with new pads. Go figure.

 

[HHhuntitall]

I've been seeing a lot of the 2x4 stuff floating around in the junkyards. I'll whack the studs out and steal some rotors pretty regular, especially if they look like the Dodge rotors. A lot of stuff will be laying around for a few years, and not have a lot of miles on 'em. I've got two pairs and no truck I run that's 2x anymore!! :-laf