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Replacing fuel shut-off solenoid

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The enginge in my '96 Dodge keeps running a few seconds after I turn the key off. I've been told the fuel shut-off solenoid should be replaced. Are there any hints or problems to look out for in doing this job? Thanks for your help. Don

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'96 2500, ext cab, 4x4, 3:54, LSD, auto, BD pressure loc, auto loc, heavy-duty TC, trans-go kit, BD heavy-duty trans cooler, DP II, Premo Plus oil filtration system, Prime-loc, pulling 10,000 lb 5th wheel.
 
LiL Smoker;
Before you buy a new one, reach under the rear end of the injector pump and move by hand, also feel to see if the rubber boot is rotten. The solenoid does not go bad , the rubber boot does. Take it off , check it good and find a way to replace the boot.
Good luck:
Preston

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96 3500, Black SLT, 5 speed, turbo diesel, , with US Gear overdrive, Rhino liner, Reese 15,000 lb. fifth wheel hitch, US Gear de-celarator exhaust brake, muffler elimination kit, Amsoil lub. , Mag-hytec rear cover, dual-remote by-pass filters, and Roadmaster Active system
 
When it goes bad your engine will not shut off at all. That's what happened on the '94 model i had. Selonoid burned up smelled real bad. Check the linkage and see if the selonoid is loose and also check all electrical conections. I don't remember exactly but I think I paid almost $180 for a replacement.
 
Be sure to check the length of the rod too. Should be 2. 64" from the bottom of the bracket to the center of the lever pin. Kinda hard to measure, but it is important! #ad
 
What I've always heard,and maybe it's BS, is that a DC(direct current) solenoid coil will never go bad,it's usually dirt or corrosion on the plunger that makes them fail. I would look at relay contacts and wiring before I replace the solenoid. We need to come up with a replacement boot for the solenoid,and plunger for that matter,as it is now you have to buy the whole unit to replace a 10¢ piece of rubber.
What Evan says about the throw being the right distance could only be altered by contaminates inside the end of the coil. How else?


[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 01-12-2001). ]
 
Also check the stud on the pump lever. Be sure it is lubricated. Some of the solenoid arms have a sort of Heim joint in them. Be sure it is lubed and free. Binding at this point can cause start and shut off problems.
 
Before dropping close to $360 (that was the price I got from DC) for a new solenoid valve, pull the solenoid off and clean and lube the linkage at the bottom. I have a '96 and went through the same thing, and that was the problem. Check to make sure that the plunger is clean also. An electromagnet holds the plunger up when the solenoid is energized. Once power to solenoid is off, a spring pushes the plunger down to the shutoff position. The movement of the plunger back to the shutoff position is all mechanical, so if either the linkage or the plunger are gunked up, the vehicle will not shutdown as it is supposed to. Good luck.
 
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