Replacing input shaft

[dieselburner]

Does the input shaft come out the front on the NV4500HD? Or do I need to disassemble the transmission? I have a new input shaft, bearing and seal coming from Standard Transmission. I also had them send me the fifth gear nut in case I start feeling ambitious.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

If possible, have the trans pointed with the input vertical. Remove the 4 bolts holding the front bearing retainer, pull it out, then the gear will come right out. It has a caged roller bearing inside it, and a flat needle bearing between it and the mainshaft assembly. You don't want the flat bearing to fall off which it might if the trans were held in its installed position while removing the input. Afterwards, it is a good idea to check the end play on the mainshaft; it should be 0. 002-0. 006 dry; you might get 0. 001-002 less movement oiled.

 

[Tim1]

I did the gearbox on the bench (99nv4500hd) and replaced the parts that you are as Joe suggested you do. When you go to replace the bearing race, carefully weld a bead (3\32") around the inside of the race. Then smack it down hard on a piece of hardwood and the race will pop right out. Maybe some others have a better way of getting these out! Works for me. Only use Castrol Syntorq (54. 00 from standard trans) oil in the gearbox. Again, some say Amsoil is ok, but they are trying to sell oil at home, as I understand it. Just my thoughts. If you do the 5th gear, follow tdrammr instructions and it will work. The socket for the front whell bearing nuts fit the 5th gear nut pattern. Tim

 

[dieselburner]

Got the transmission out last night. Only took 2 hours this time and that's including taking the front off of the transmission. Guess I'm getting better with practice Unfortunately, it looks like I also broke the sleeve off of the front bearing retainer during the mishap. I ordered a new one from Standard Transmission this morning and they say that they will have it to my place tomorrow along with the rest of the parts. I'm going to do the fifth gear nut fixe while it's out too.

Steve

 

[dieselburner]

Originally posted by Joseph Donnelly

If possible, have the trans pointed with the input vertical. Remove the 4 bolts holding the front bearing retainer, pull it out, then the gear will come right out. It has a caged roller bearing inside it, and a flat needle bearing between it and the mainshaft assembly. You don't want the flat bearing to fall off which it might if the trans were held in its installed position while removing the input. Afterwards, it is a good idea to check the end play on the mainshaft; it should be 0. 002-0. 006 dry; you might get 0. 001-002 less movement oiled.



Started putting the McLeod dual clutches back together last night and noticed that the hubs are bent! So, I guess I'll need to find some new clutches or go with a different type clutch...



A question for anyone that has done the fifth gear fix - I got the split nut from Standard Transmission and installed it last night. I may have missed a step however during the installation. I did not tighten the cross bolt down and back it off one turn before I cranked the nut down on the gear. After I torqued the cross bolt down to 10ft lbs, I ended up with . 170" clearance on the opening of the split nut. Is this excessive?

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

That sounds excessive. I tighten the lockbolt so there is some drag on turning the nut onto the shaft, and use plenty of Loctite 272 on threads and splines. once you torque the nut there is no way that little lockbolt will draw the nut together at the split.

 

[Sled Puller]

Originally posted by Tim1

. Only use Castrol Syntorq (54. 00 from standard trans) oil in the gearbox. Again, some say Amsoil is ok, but they are trying to sell oil at home, as I understand it. Just my thoughts. Tim

Tim,

Your thoughts are quite rude and uninformed.



Selling oil from home as you like to call it, has nothing to do with recommending a gear lube that works better than factory lube.



I would never tell someone to use a product that is marginal just to make a sale.

I also never told anyone to use it until I had mine apart at 80,000 and checked it. Perfect. One heck of a lot better than factory lubed units I saw apart.



If you want an opinion on gear lubes from a company that rebuilds 4500's that STAY IN THE FIELD WORKING, check with www.enterpriseengine.com





Gene

 

[Sled Puller]

One more thing.......

And another thing, for example, Joe Donnelly sells clutchs, ported heads and everything else out of his house, (no offense Joe, I'm OK with it) and everybody is ok with that!

Half the vendors on here have small shops across the street from their house, or in their garage.

Kind of a double standard.



Where did this unwritten rule come from that if you sell oil from your garage that is a bad thing, but it is ok to sell HP from the back yard?

It is not like we are making the oil in Mom's Lifetime favorite pot in the back yard!



If it was not for the small businessmen or salesmen, this country would have died long agao.

I would trust a small company more than a big one anyday.



Hows that Enron stock doing?

Gene

 

[Tim1]

Sorry Gene, I didn't mean to be rude, maybe misinformed by the post of some failures with amsoil, but certainly not rude. I would be the last one to disclaim anyone for selling anything at home. I can see that this is quite a (don't go there) tender subject! Gene, if I offended you or any other Amsoil dealer, I do apollogise. I stand corrected. Tim :-{} :-{}

 

[Tim1]

Hey Steve, the split nut is not a good fix according to tdrammr and numerous other failures. It's just my opinion that the full earlier nut is a better fix! Tim

 

[dieselburner]

Originally posted by Tim1

Hey Steve, the split nut is not a good fix according to tdrammr and numerous other failures. It's just my opinion that the full earlier nut is a better fix! Tim

I had the full nut on my truck to begin with. It was staked once into the machined groove on the shaft. I replaced it with the split nut while I was doing the input shaft as a maintenance type deal. The nut was not slipping and the fifth gear was still on solid. If the original nut is really the way to go, I need to know before I put this thing back together! Guess this is what I get for fixing it when it's not broke...

 

[Sled Puller]

No problem Tim!

Although you still are misinformed- there are no threads about Amsoil failures.



There is a nice thread of blown 4500 input shafts, NON-Amsoil shafts.



There is one misguided soul who thinks a leak was caused by the oil, it wasn't.



Gene

 

[Don M]

Sled Driver,



There is this other guy on the TDR that sounds just like you. This is picture of him with the Amsoil garb or atire, if you will. He goes by the name of M&M or something like that. Ever heard of him or do you know this guy? He has a red truck with stickers all over it too. Guess what the stickers say?



Don~

 

[Sled Puller]

That guy looks mean.



They will be a thread later explaining things Don, patience, grasshopper!

 

[LarryB]

Ohh Noooo... ... .