Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Replacing lift pump; what else should I expect?

[fest3er]

I will be replacing the lift pump on my '98 12V; it's original at 260K miles. The rubber line up behind the filter is fairly new. The starter contacts are fairly new. The oil pressure sender is fairly new. Everything else in there should be original.



Since I have to take a bunch of stuff apart, what can I expect to have to replace as part of the job? A bunch of stuff looks quite rusty and may not survive removal. I'd like to get the parts I need before taking it all apart!



Should I just go to Cummins Atlantic and get all the connectors, hoses, tubes, pipes, et al? Then go to the dealer for the Dodge-only parts?



Thanks!

 

[bmoeller]

Taking a bunch of stuff apart? There isn't much to remove when replacing the LP. Pretty simple and straight forward, unless you are doing more than just the pump.


Here is the little write up I did on the process a while back-

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Some of the info below is cut and paste from Diesel Ram lift pump replacement I simplified it/made some changes from what CJ did. He did a few steps that he could've skipped and made it easier on himself.

Tools needed-

trouble light
10mm socket - for lift pump bolts (1/4" drive ratchet/6" long extention and socket will work also. )
14mm socket - for fuel filter canister (or 14mm universal socket)
3/8 ratchet
6" 3/8 extension
3/8 universal joint - makes filter nut easier
3/4" (19mm) open end wrench - for fuel inlet nut
14mm open end wrench - for fuel outlet fitting
19mm open end wrench - injector line nuts (only if you need to loosen lines to bleed out air, I didn't have to)
12mm socket - upper banjo on fuel filter inlet
17mm open end - lower banjo on fuel filter inlet (These 2 are for when removing the steel fuel line between the filter housing and
pump)
cresent wrench (if pump was purchased from Case/C-IH dealer)
pliers (spring clamps)
--------------------------------------

Note: After starting, if you remove the air intake horn it will give you a little more room to work. I did not, no trouble for me. Be careful with the gasket on top of grid heater so it can be reused. Cover the openings so nothing will fall into them.

Unhook water in fuel sensor connector (WIF).

Remove the fuel filter canister after draining the fuel out of filter canister. Use 14mm socket, U-joint, and extension.

Disconnect (or remove) the rubber hose that goes to the fuel heater from lift pump on pump end. (spring clamps)

Remove little banjo bolt for small steel line, carefully bend out of way.

Remove the big banjo bolt from steel line from the LP to the filter canister head. (Be careful not to loose any of the sealing washers!) Disconnect the line from the top of the pump and take out line.

Use a 10mm socket, 6" extension and 3/8 ratchet handle. There are 2 bolts, one to the right of the pump, the other between the pump and the strainer/heater. There's not a whole lot of room between the strainer and pump, but unless you have really huge sockets, there's plenty of room. These 2 bolts hold both the fuel strainer/heater and the pump in place. (The lines will hold the fuel heater/strainer in place when the pump bolts are removed) It may be necessary to turn the camshaft when removing the pump, or if you have difficulty reinstalling the pump. The cam lobe needs to be at its lowest position. Carefully remove the pump, making sure to pull it staight back from the block so the rod doesn't get pulled out and drop into engine.

Remove the elbow from old pump and install onto the new one. Use some thread sealant on the threads to prevent leaks. (If you bought the pump from Case/C-IH, you will need to swap the fitting that the elbow is screwed into. There is a thin sealing washer, so don't lose/damage it. )

Remove the 2 gaskets. One between the block and the heater/strainer bracket, the other between the bracket and the pump. If they don't come in one piece, carefully scrap off the gasket(s). May need to remove fuel heater strainer to do this if needed.

If the plunger rod on the old pump in in good shape, reuse it with the new pump since it's worn into the cam in the engine. The rod just pulls straight out of the pump. Put oil on the rod before installing into pump.

After installing the gaskets, install the new pump. (Starting the bolts can be tricky. )

Reinstall the lines/hose and banjo bolts, taking care not to lose the washers.

Reinstall the filter and canister. Plug the WIF sensor back in.

If you took the air horn off, reinstall that.

Prime fuel system by pushing the primer buttom (rubber top). Pump 'til you hear fuel make the overflow (OF) valve sqeak/chatter. Them pump some more. It will take at bit to fill the filter canister and purge air through the OF valve.

Attempt to start truck. If it doesn't fire up shortly, repeat the prior step, may need to do this a couple of times.

If it still will not start, you may need to bleed the injector lines. Loosen 2 or 3 of the fittings at the top of the injectors with a 19mm wrench. They don't need to be removed, just loosen a bit. Crank the engine until fuel comes out of the fittings on the injectors. This may take bit of cranking, so it'd be a good idea to have a set of jumper cables and another vehicle available, especially if it's cold and/or your batteries aren't in tip top shape. Follow the general precautions on excessive cranking to avoid overheating your starter - don't crank for more than 30 sec. , let things cool for a few minutes before cranking again. Once fuel is to the fittings, tighten the fittings on the injectors. Go back to cranking again. The engine will likely sputter to life and promptly die a few times before it takes off and runs. It may run rough for a few seconds, but will eventually smooth out.

 

[GAmes]

If you install studs that are about 1/2 inch longer than the bolt shanks reinstallation is MUCH easier.

 

[fest3er]

Since it was 70F today (apparently it got up to 75-80 while I was outside), I replaced the lift pump today. Removed the fuel filter assembly and the starter to give me plenty of room to get my skinny little arms in. A 'spare' bolt fell out when I removed the starter. Well rusted, so it'd been there a long time; I put it back where it belongs, holding a fuel line, I believe.

Fuel line from LP to filter was rusted a little too much; I destroyed the line taking it off. That's OK. New one from Cummins Atlantic was all of $34, I think. I should've replaced the other hard line while I was there; it's badly rusted; but I'd likely be replacing the line all the way to the tank. R&R of the LP is much easier if you bar the engine over until one #1 valve is about closed and the other #1 valve is starting to open; that'll be TDC and the cam will be at its lowest. I cut 1/4" off one end of the new 90 deg. hose; it fits much better. And yes, studs would've made the installation much easier.

Once again, the starter was a PITA, due to the 12-pt bolts. This time seemed easier, though; I used a short length of fence pipe as a cheater on the 10mm box wrench. The one bolt just doesn't want to take a 3/8 socket.

But I plodded through it, one step at a time. Once it was back together, I cracked three injector lines and cranked until it started. Seems to run a little smoother now. At first I thought it idled higher, but that's just the linkage sticking. I lubed the linkage on the driver's side of the p-pump to little avail. I'm still missing something.

Cleaner the pre-strainer, first time in many years. It'd picked up a tiny little bit of stuff, not even worth cleaning. Should be good for another 150K miles.

The only tools I had to borrow were a 12pt 10mm socket from a neighbor and Dad's 12" slipwrench. I only had one; needed two to transfer the 90 deg. fitting to the new LP. Only consulted the SM to determine where I should turn the engine for the optimal cam lob position. The rest was easy to figure out via visual inspection.

And I have a better idea where the oil leaks are. The back end of the engine is fairly dry and rusty. Say, could an engine be 'freshened' in two days? (Cylinder honing, rings, seals, freeze plugs, etc. )? Oh, wait. No. Engine should really be removed to do the job right.

Lift pump replacement is a good afternoon project for a warm, sunny day.