Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Replacing My Head Gasket

[Mamboalaska]

Hello All... for the past 2 weeks, I have had engine coolant disapearing It only happens under extreme boost... Say 30lbs. and above. I have made the assumption that I have a bad head gasket. So I went to my local parts store and bought a new kit. Im going to start this little endevor in about 2 hours... . Any advice in advance?? Ive got the Dodge "Bible" and I will be following its instructions. thank you in advance





~Eric

 

[patrobertson]

Its not that bad

Its not too hard, just take everything off and get organized, should be able to have it off ina few hours. Don't forget the temp sending unit on the far back drivers side, make sure it is disconnected, just pulls off. I did it by myself and put a knee on the front rad area and stood on the frame rail where the turbo should be, but I removed it. A towel folded a few times is a good place to set the head on top of the radiator support. Clean all the holes real good, lots of quetips (sp) and brake clean. Its also a good time to repaint your block and head and all that good stuff, nice to work on a clean engine.



When you put it back together, make sure the push rods/ tubes are seated in the lifters, sometimes they don't sit in and they can bend, just make sure there seated right. I bent two the first time. doh!!!! Have fun,



Shane

 

[Reddog1]

Mamboalaska - Don't jump on this project too quick. Do a search and see what others have experienced.



I replaced my head gasket a couple of months ago. It was not that difficult, but it still took over 10 hours.



I suggest a minimum of the following the following:



1. Have head checked for flat. It is probably warped, and will have to be machined. Very common to be warped at the front right corner (. 006 to . 008 inches)



2. Use a plus . 020 marine head gasket, regardless of what you machine from head. You will not need the Head gasket kit (extra gaskets, not available in a plus . 020 marine headgasket).



3. Have the head checked for cracks. Very common to have cracks in valve seats (can be repaired).



4. Have valves touched up while in the shop, assuming you machine the head.



5. Make sure you have valve stem seals if the valves are removed. They are not a stock item, cost about $25, will require a couple of days from Cummins.



6. Have exhaust manifold gaskets on hand (and turbo gasket).



7. Be extra careful pulling the head, it is easy to break the Temperature sending unit. It cost about $125 from Dodge, $75 from a parts house, and not available from Cummins. It is easy to bump the sending unit when pulling the head. I been there and done that.



8. It is a good idea to get an intake gasket, they are inexpensive and easy to damage when removed.



9. If after assembly, you decide you need to replace the valve cover gaskets, its no big deal. Change them at any time for about $5 each from Cummins.





In addition to the above, I suggest you replace the fuel hose which is easier to get to with the head off, and replace both radiator hoses.



If you have not done so, it is a good time to get a timing gear gasket and crank seal, and pin the dowel pin (KDP). Especially if you pull the radiator (not really necessary).



I saw a little antifreeze on my radiator core, so I pulled the radiator. Good thing I did, the beginning of a major problem. I had to replace the radiator for $300. I could not see the problem with the radiator in the truck.





This is getting a little wordy, better cut it off.





Wayne

 

[Mamboalaska]

OK the Head is out last night, Pretty uneventful. Other that bending 2 push rods#@$%! Had a heck of a time geting the #6 cylinder push rods out. I think in frustration they got bent:{

Got the 4000 Rpm springs installed and the fuel govenor springs installed. The head is heading to Anchorge monday morning to be checked out by the Cummings Dealer for squareness and to be pressure checked. I took a bunch if pictures of the removal, If there is any intrest Ill post a few... . Thanks for your help Guys:-laf





~Eric

 

[R.ebel]

Head Gasket R&R

Defiantly get a valve job done while the head is off. I did mine at 110K and the intake valves were fine but the exhaust valves were more than ready for a grind. To get the rear most push rods in and out without bending them there are 2 rubber plugs directly above the rear cylinders in the cowling that you can pop out with a screw driver in order to facilitate the removal of the push rods (don't know if you are aware of the plugs?). Have the block and head good and clean upon reassembly. I use lacquer thinner and a razor blade followed up by several wipe downs with lacquer thinner until the the rag you are using does not get dirty any more.