Attention: TDR Forum Junkies I'm new to the DODGE game..... I suppose that the club cab/extended cab is one and the same? Anyhow, the rockers on my '92 extended cab had matured to the point that holes were located along the bottom radius. This is what I've done,wrong or right;
1. Cut out all rotten material with die grinder
2. Using materials I have in stock to repair the tin work on the busses, I worked over the sheet metal to cover what was left of old rocker
3. Test fit and adjusting as necessary
4. Coated new rockers and old with a chemical to prevent rust
5. Secured the new with very small rivets. [front section riveted along upper lip at bottom of door jamb]
6. Grind off rivet head flush. At this point the area immediately surrounding my tin is pulled in a bit due to the clamping force of rivet
7. Cover rivet/area surrounding with light coating of body filler to blend in
8. I finished off area by applying glazing putty. Sanding down and reapplying as required to fill in sanding marks. Don't rush this step! Any imperfection left behind will be MAGNIFIED by the paint application.
9. Mask, prime, and paint
These are the "in a nut shell" steps that I used. This may not work for everyone, depending upon the desired end result. I did it myself because it took two men and a child to carry me back to the truck after a quote from a body shop. I also have the equipment and materials on hand. I take pride in my ride because I did it myself.
By the way, a good metal brake is essential in working with sheet metal. By no means am I a pro with paint-n-body but willing to help out any way I can.
HAPPY TRUCK'EN
Scott
1. Cut out all rotten material with die grinder
2. Using materials I have in stock to repair the tin work on the busses, I worked over the sheet metal to cover what was left of old rocker
3. Test fit and adjusting as necessary
4. Coated new rockers and old with a chemical to prevent rust
5. Secured the new with very small rivets. [front section riveted along upper lip at bottom of door jamb]
6. Grind off rivet head flush. At this point the area immediately surrounding my tin is pulled in a bit due to the clamping force of rivet
7. Cover rivet/area surrounding with light coating of body filler to blend in
8. I finished off area by applying glazing putty. Sanding down and reapplying as required to fill in sanding marks. Don't rush this step! Any imperfection left behind will be MAGNIFIED by the paint application.
9. Mask, prime, and paint
These are the "in a nut shell" steps that I used. This may not work for everyone, depending upon the desired end result. I did it myself because it took two men and a child to carry me back to the truck after a quote from a body shop. I also have the equipment and materials on hand. I take pride in my ride because I did it myself.
By the way, a good metal brake is essential in working with sheet metal. By no means am I a pro with paint-n-body but willing to help out any way I can.
HAPPY TRUCK'EN
Scott
