Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Replacing Supply & Return Lines

[fire8033]

I am going to be replacing the supply & return fuel lines in the next couple of days with the marine grade rubber hose. Can anyone give me alittle insight on changing them??? Do you have to drop the tank, any tricks or tips???? any detailed instructions if it is a real pain?????



Thanks in advance, this site is the greatest site I have every become a member of, its saved me 1000 times the amount of money than it cost to join.

 

[TRCM]

You don't HAVE to drop the tank, but I would. That way, you can check and replace the lines inside the tank. They can leak too. I checked them on mine, but since they would hold 25" of vacuum, I figured they weren't leaking.



You also will have a hard time getting the old lines out, and the news one in between the tank & the frame rail.



I also replace all the lines from the engine to the tank. I also got rid of the 90 deg fitted hose on the lift pump-perfilter housing. I replaced it with about 12" of AN line and the appropriate fittings. The new stuff cost less than the 90 deg line. Instead of an 'L' shape, it is now a u-shape of stainless braided line.

 

[RBrunson]

My detailed instructions would be, start truck, drive to your choice of diesel repair shops and have them do it for you. This will save you a lot of aggravation and cussing. I have done mine once and once was enough.

 

[TRCM]

Dang, I thought it was no worse than swapping radiators.



It IS not hard to do. I dropped my tank, replaced all the lines, cleaned the in tank unti, tested it, reinstalled the tank and lines, replaced the lift pump, and installed a fuel pressure gage all in 8 hrs. 1 hr of that was letting the gasket sealant set on the lift pump & filter housing, and 1 1/2 hrs fighting them to get them back in. If you ever replace them, you will know what I mean. Dodge should have used studs instead of bolts on them.

 

[Joe G.]

fire803,



The big problem is getting room to work. Remove the fuel filter and remove the starter. Take the two nuts off the fasten the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. There is enough flex in the brake lines that you can lean the master cylinder toward the fender. If the hose clamps are the originals you will have to cut them off with some pliers. Replacing the rubber lines in the engine room is probably all you need to do for a '94. No need to drop the tank unless replacing the short hoses doesn't work. LarryB sells a hose kit for this at: http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm so you know you have the right kind of hoses.

 

[TRCM]

If all you are doing is replacing the lines in the engine bay, make sure you check the rest of them. On my 97, the vinyl flex lines that connect the frame hard lines to the tank were almost crimped shut.



Removing all that stuff will make it easier, But i removed none of it, and still got it done in less than one night.