Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Replacing transmission

[srenfro]

I'm getting ready to put my new auto transmission (Dave Goerend) in my 95. I have a mechanic who'll do it but he's kinda backed up at the moment and with cold weather here I need to get it done before it either snows or we get ice. I'm capable of doing it myself but there are a few tools I'll have to rent, i. e. , trans jack. Is there anything I need to take special notice of, or tricks that might make the job a little easier while removing/installing this transmisson. I do have the shop manual for this truck.



Thanks

 

[DJAustin]

I haven't done my 95 yet, but will be. Any tips you can pass on will be great.

 

[JPittinger]

I did mine in my dirt driveway. Some long extensions to get to the upper bellhousing bolts help alot. Pulling the transmission cooler lines was a much bigger hassle than I would have thought. Pretty straight forward, just takes a little time.

 

[srenfro]

Great. Mine is also a 4x4. Did you use standard jackstands to set the truck on to get enough clearence to get the transmission out. Or did you find something more stable.

 

[smokinrod]

it is simple I am down to 42 minutes to get out and about the same going in (i have a 95 4x4) just make sure you have about 3ft of extentions and a set of swivel sockets ,these are not a have to have but sure save you time and headaches. i do have a hoist so it is easyier for me it will take you awhile on the ground

 

[srenfro]

Thanks smokinrod.

 

[Joe G.]

One problem you may run into is the cross member that the transmission mount is on. It may be in really tight. On mine I use a little jack and a bar to spread the frame a little bit. Otherwise it takes a big hammer and some appropriate comments to get it out and back in. You also need a long tapered bar or punch to line up the bolt holes in the cross member and the frame.

 

[srenfro]

Good info Joe. I assume there is a gasket of some sort where the transfer case and the transmission attach or is there a seal in each that keeps the oil from each other. Got to get to work, later and thanks.

 

[Nate]

There's a seal on the output shaft of the trans and the input shaft of the T Case. The trans and T Case are metal to metal.

 

[EMD-Run8]

What kind of transmission did you get? A 47RH or RE? Just curious... .

 

[srenfro]

47RH. Going to start on it tomorrow. Go Cards!

 

[JPittinger]

I didn't have to use any jackstands. Used my only floor jack to lower the transmission out, and before that I just bench pressed the transfer case out. Be sure to post with any problems, somebody will answer this weekend. Good luck and don't worry.

-JJ

 

[Allnew2Me]

Great timing, as I just removed mine today. It is definitely a job but is not bad if you go slow and do things in order. I just drove up on some two-by blocks and raised the front end about 6 inches, plenty of room to work. The most difficult part is that dang cross-member. It is tapered and is wider at the top and I found that by using a dead blow hammer and tapping it back to the flatter part of the frame it was only really hard to get out rather than really really hard. The other thing was the removal of the flexplate to convertor bolts. I finally figured out that they were accesed through a cover plate under the cooler, near the plug for the barring tool. I used a large screwdriver to rotate the ring gear and took them out one at a time. There was loc-tite on them so it was a chore. I took my floor jack and used a pipe flange and a short 3/4" pipe nipple to replace the metal cup and bolted a couple pieces of plywood to the flange making a flat platform to rest the trans on. I worked great and I was able to remove it alone. Some guys remove the transmission with the transfer case attatched but I found the T-case to come out failry easy after that cross member was out. I also am taking advantage of the situation and painting my drive lines while they are out. Take your time and remove all the cooler lines also, it doesn't take that much time and they can be drained and cleaned. They cross under the bellhousing and you would have to pull the trans back about 6 inches to clear them, I didn't want to risk damage so I removed them. Between climbing out to get tools and wiping up that fluid it took me about 4 hours. If I did it again I could do it in two, but let's hope I don't have to!

 

[srenfro]

Thanks fellas, it is great to have such a valuable resource as this. I might not now get to start on it this weekend. One of the clips to the pressure line is gone and this thing is puking fluid like no ones business (started last weekend). I have some clips on the way (thanks to Howard Durand) and once I get it clipped I'm going to run it to the car wash and clean the crap out of it before I crawl under there. It really doesn't sound like a big deal now, I'll just take my time. Can't wait to get DG's transmission in this truck and see how it runs.



St. Louis Cardinals, 2006 World Series Champions!

 

[DonFitzwater]

Make sure you get a porta power to "spread" the frame rails just enough to set the cross member in place. This was the only thing that gave me any trouble during my swap. All pretty easy though. Make sure you lock tite the transfer case bolts to the trans as they can work loose on occasion. Good luck. I'm going to have another beer now!

 

[srenfro]

I'm at a point which I can't figure out. I'm following the service manual as I do this. I've got the converter cover off where I can see the converter. The manual say's to rotate the enigine until converter bolts are accessible, well thats all good but there aren't any converter bolts. The ring gear is welded to the converter. So what do I do from here.

 

[JPittinger]

Are you looking in the right hole? Its been 2 years, but seems like there's a cover on the pass. side facing towards the front near where the barring tool goes. I don't think you can unbolt it from the cover at the bottom of the bell housing. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

-JJ

 

[srenfro]

I remember seeing that when I removed the dipstick tube, I'll check it in the morning. The rear drive shaft was giving me a fit so I quit before I broke something.

 

[Allnew2Me]

Yes the hole to remove the convertor bolts, there are 6 of them, is on the passenger side below the cooler on the adapter casting facing forward. If you reach up from underneath you will feel 2 hex-head bolts, about 3/8" I think. Remove them and the sheet metal cover will be removed and the hole is about 2" in diameter. I used a large screwdriver to pry against the bottom of the bell housing cover and the ring gear on the flexplate. It does'nt take much to make it move, just use you right hand to feel the bolt head when it is at the hole. They have Loc-tite on them so it will be a little tough to break them loose but they are about half an inch long and come out pretty easy after that.

 

[srenfro]

Thanks. Any advice on getting the rear drive shaft out. I took it apart at the rear end but I couldn't get it to budge.