Restoration Tools/Equipment?

[RT66DOC]

I am restoring a car - very good shape, actually but needs freshening up. Also plan to do a more involved resto next. Eventually I'll need to deal with a few body panels and maybe build a jig or two.



So do I really need a MIG welder to do quality work or will a stick welder do the job? I've never done any MIG welding but in my ute I worked as a welder - stick and oxy/acet. Got to a point where I was very good at both (and a holy terror with the cutting torch :-laf ), mostly mild steel 0. 125 - 0. 250 and am confident I could resurrect that skill. If MIG is the best way to go, will that past experience translate?



I intend to use lead loading rather than huge gobs of bondo. Also have experience with this. Recently I read of a resto shop that uses a newer, supposedly non-toxic, alternative to lead. Anybody know what that might be?



Third, I need an angle grinder and would appreciate input on air vs electric, brand preferences, etc. Speaking of angle grinders, what is a "floppy"? I think that's what it's called - recommended to use rather than a sanding disc for body work.



As always, any and all input will be most appreciated.

 

[JFaughn]

Definatly not stick , mig but don'nt forget brazing , then a lot of area needs the heat puty to keep warping to a min. air tools for body work require a big compresor 15-20 cfm if your going to do much so electric wood be cheaper unless you make it a living, if you haven't found this yet buy the best and ***** once[ cost] insted of every time you use it.

 

[Clinton]

I'm not much of a welder, but I do enjoy tinkering with MIG machines. I've never done much with stick welders except burn holes in pipe.



I like my Makita 4. 5" grinder. It's only a couple years old, but has seen some abuse and is hanging in there nicely. About the 'floppy', I'm not certain, but you may be talking about flap discs. These kinda split the difference between a grinding wheel and a sanding disc. They have flaps of sturdy sand paper (available in all grits) sandwiched together radially. You'll find they are really good for grinding weld beads or anywhere you need to remove material, but you need to remove it carefully. I've found the Norton brand, available at Fastenal, last better than the stuff at Home Depot or Lowe's.

 

[JApol]

If yo uare going to be removing paint or any other material off the panels go with soda blasting. It uses baking soda to remove all the paint then smoething harsher can be used in the heavier corroded areas that the soda wasn't able to get. The best thing about soda is that it does not heat up the metal so it doesn't warp it either

 

[Todd T]

well if you really want to spend some cash a tig is the most versitile. a mig is a must bare minimum.



a "floppy" is a sanding disc that goes on a hand held grinder (usually air).



Eastwood makes a lead free body solder. its takes a bit more heat to work it over Lead but is stronger. there are a few others out there.

 

[SMorton]

Restoration Tools/Equipment

I restore cars for a living, after many years doing strictly collision repair, you will really need a mig welder, there are many nice 110 powered small units available,I prefer the miller brand. As long as your metal work is decent, don't be afraid of plastic body filler, they are not at all bad, and we use it on every restoration we do. If done correctly, it will never crack, go bad, or any of that nonsense. I have done many 100K plus restorations on rare and collectable automobiles, every one of them has plastic filler somewhere in it.



04. 5 600/325, 48RE, 4:10 anti-slip, 4X4 Q/C 2500 SRW, Rhino bedliner, MBRP Stainless Duals, Afe airbox, stainless steps, DD Mag Hytec pan, special ordered and worth the wait!

 

[RT66DOC]

Thanks to all for the input.



I did some decent brazing in the past but found it too much of a pain worrying about warpage when doing body panels, also set the headliner on fire. - '37 Chevy.



I've heard of soda blasting. Works great. Also dipping the whole enchilada, e. g. , "Redi-Strip" gets all the nooks and crannies.



I found this when searching soda blasting. Looks like a handy unit for small stuff for not much money. http://www.ace-sandblasting.com/soda-blasting.html



Re plastic fillers: I restored an MGB and used some plastic filler. Not alot, as I was able to get the surfaces fairly close with the usual assortment of body hammers, dollies, etc. Turned out great. After reading SMorton's post, maybe I'll just stick with plastic. Sure is easier to work with.