Retorquing the Head

[Blackbrush]

My baby and I have been through a lot. U-joints, ball joints, lift pump, water pump, rear axle and most recently my injectors at 151K mi to name a few. The folks at F1 have been great and I'm about to put the top end back together. I'd like to retorque the head before adjusting the valves and buttoning her up. I have the torque sequence for new head installation but I was wondering if any of you braniacs out there have a method for retorquing. I wouldn't think it too wise to loosen them up and follow new installation procedures. Any thoughts?



Thanks!

 

[rbattelle]

I doubt they really need to be retorqued, but if I were going to do it I'd just set the torque wrench to the specification and go around in the proper sequence.

You know they're going to be close to the proper specification already, so there's no need to try to gradually step up torque.

Ryan

 

[Blackbrush]

Thanks but that's the tricky part. The manual calls for 77ft/lbs PLUS 90 degrees (quarter turn)! That's why I'm scratching my head.

 

[rbattelle]

I suppose I would've known that if I had taken the time to review the manual.

In that case, I'd leave them alone. If they've never been removed, leave them alone.

Ryan

 

[betterthanstock]

The 90 deg is the "torque to yield" part of the spec. That means they get stretched permanently, so it's not a good idea to loosen them up any. They'll just get weaker. They act like a spring anyway, when they are that tight. A lot of new drivetrain parts are like that. You replace hardware when you reassemble.

 

[jwilliams3]

Thanks but that's the tricky part. The manual calls for 77ft/lbs PLUS 90 degrees (quarter turn)! That's why I'm scratching my head.

Thats right just follow what the manual says.

Remove one bolt at a time and re-torque to spec. Mark the top of the bolt head with a paint marker line and turn 90* after you reach your 77ft lbs.

Make sure to re-oil the bolt threads with wd40 or engine oil while re-torquing.