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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Return fuel hose

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) TST Torque Plate #8 vs. #6

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I have fuel hose kit coming from LarryB's, I'm not having any problems yet, but the hoses are starting to look pretty old and it looks like someone before my Dad replaced them. My question is , can I disconnect the return line at the injector pump and pull the line out that way, or is their another way to replace the hoes.I just replaced the fuel filter so I'm trying not to take it off again

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I replaced and re-routed my return line with some hose, 4 clamps, and basic tools in @ 30 minutes and she's still going strong. I took the return line loose at the injection pump (where the overflow valve is) and broke it off at the bracket by pushing it back and forth, then cut it off square and cleaned it up. Then I flipped it over and slid the new hose on and put two clamps on it. Then got under the truck and reached up as far as I could and cut the rubber line. Then I disconnected the steel line at the quick-connect fitting, cut the steel line close to where the original rubber hose is connected, cleaned off the burrs, slid the new hose on and double clamped that end. Then reconnect the steel lines and drive on. Haven't had any problems.
 
I replaced and re-routed my return line with some hose, 4 clamps, and basic tools in @ 30 minutes and she's still going strong. I took the return line loose at the injection pump (where the overflow valve is) and broke it off at the bracket by pushing it back and forth, then cut it off square and cleaned it up. Then I flipped it over and slid the new hose on and put two clamps on it. Then got under the truck and reached up as far as I could and cut the rubber line. Then I disconnected the steel line at the quick-connect fitting, cut the steel line close to where the original rubber hose is connected, cleaned off the burrs, slid the new hose on and double clamped that end. Then reconnect the steel lines and drive on. Haven't had any problems.
I think I'm just going to replace the fuel lines I got from LARRY B'S, where the old ones are connected. How hard is it to pull the old line off the hard lines?The one line that connects to the hard line on the injector pump, look's to be the hardest.The rest don't look to bad.

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Yeah, you'll need to pull the IP to remove the metal line that runs behind it. That's what I was saying, way too much trouble in my opinion for a simple return line. You could probably remove the filter assembly to give you better access to the line in your pic.
 
Pulling the filter is easier and less complicated then pulling the injector pump! At 20,000 my Mule was having problems starting and leaking fuel. Took it to dealer they put copper washers on the pump, still had problems. They sent it to Cummins Shop they replaced p7100 (replace and not fix method). Cummins sent it to a shop down the road that specialized in diesel fuel systems they put a return hose on Mule. Mule started right up. That was the end of 96. In 2000 I started to have problems again and other members were having trouble with the return line. I put a diesel rated neapreme (spelling?) hose on it. It is still on, no problems.
 
I'm getting ready to replace both rubber fuel lines. I think if I remove the fuel filter it should give me the room I need, is their anything else that would help.I have the double ram intake from Banks, and didn't know if taking that off would give me any more room ,to get to the return line.

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The return line goes from metal to rubber right at the back of the injection pump, I THINK. Removal of the intake horn will probably be necessary. Also, I THINK the metal return line off the OFV actually bolts to the bottom of the injection pump. If so you can probably take the bolts out and remove the metal line with the OFV removed. I'm not sure about that, though.
 
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