Return Fuel Line Hose

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Hello Folks,

Has anyone had to replace the rubber hose connector between the fuel filter and the fuel tank? This is the return line if I understand correctly. I am by no means a “big person”, and yet, I have been unable to get my hand or arm in any good positions where I can actually replace this hose. Any ideas as to how I can do this without removing the left fender of the truck? Seems like a simple task to have to dismantle things too far.

Mark


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Mark
1996 Dodge 3500, Green and silver.

 

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I doubt it is worth the effort! I bought of piece of steel braided racing fuel line and had the dealer install it for $100.

 

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N8LHG,

Remove the two nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the brake booster. It can then be leaned toward the fender and out of the way. Then remove the fuel filter. Some folks remove the starter, but I didn't need to do that. If you decide that the starter must be removed don't forget to disconnect the batteries. If you are a "close to the ground" person you will need something to stand on. Especially if it's a 4X4. The job is still a PITA but it's certainly doable within a reasonable amount of time.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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It is a ***** to replace,I had to due mine last May and took me about 4 hrs of frustration. If you replace it get a replacement hose from N. A. P. A. Auto parts, it is suppose to be an excellant replacement hose. The original hose put on by Dodge is a cheep hose and cracks real fast because of the heat generated by the engine,then it starts leaking which causes hard starting. I laid on top of the engine witch allowd me to get my fingers in to desconnect the clamp under the intake air chamber,then I took a knife and cut the hose off the metal return line,you also have a clamp holding the hose tored the rear of and under the air box but the hose will pull through this clamp,then I could only feel my way around the other end of the return line to remove the clamp from the metal line going to the fuel tank at the rear of the engine along side of the transmission. Good luck.

 

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Gentlemen,
It's easy if you reach back between the master and the fuel filter for the first clamp, and between the fuel filter and the injection pump for the second one. It'd be a good idea to remove the fuel filter for extra clearance to do the job. I do them in about 15minutes to 1/2 hour, depending on how badly corroded the clamps are. #ad


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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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My clamps were almost impossible to lossen, I think that one was even a crimp on. I went in with a Dremel and a cut off wheel and cut some of them off. And like was mentioned, unclip the metal lines down at the bellhousing, that will make it easier.

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Paul A. Schmidt
95, 4X4, SLT 2500, 5 spd. , 4. 10, 270 hp. ,675ft. lb. TST, AFC spring kit,215hp. injectors,16cm2 turbo housing, Pacbrake, Walker muffler,
GearVendor O. D. , CenterForce Dual Friction clutch.
Eastern PA.

 

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N8LHG, a belated welcome to the TDR. I'm 6', about 165lbs. and it was fairly easy once I got a flashlight out one night so I could see everything. I found that the rear clamp was easly reached from the bottom, used a 1/4" breakover and 8mm socket (?), much better than a screwdriver. I also removed the fuel filter. About a 30min. job. Good luck, Ronnie.

 

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I replaced the supply and return at the same time. I cut the lines down at the frame and ran rubber hose from the nipple on Fuel inj. pump (return) and the filter (supply) the bigger line is the supply line on the frame. the next smaller is the return line, the tiny one is the brake line,,, don't cut that one!!!!
Just slide the hoses over the proper lines at the frame and clamp, much easier than messing with the steel line going up to the side of the bell housing. Remove the old lines.

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96 CC 4X4 2500 SLT AUTO transmission, PrimeLoc, ISSPRO EGT Boost transmission Temp, GUTTED CAT, 150,000+ Miles still goin' strong, Lots of Ham Radio gear, NO IGNITION NOISE!!! Love my diesel!!!

 

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Oh, I almost forgot. The fuel line you want to use is German Fuel Spec. hose. I get it from a Mercedes-Benz supplier. It won't give to the Diesel fuel like the rubber OEM hose does. Get new clamps along with it too. DC spends less money replacing bad with bad and writing it off as warranty.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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Folks,
First off, thanks for the warm welcome! As with most new folks here, I watched and read a month or so before actually becoming a dues paying member, and find this to be one of the best help resources I have yet to find. I purchased my Cummins/dodge some months ago, and must say it is one of the finest machines I have yet to own. Let it be known that the CAT is dead, and the silencer ring is gone (I’ve been thinking about hanging it from the mirror as a decoration).

Being the short and stubby type that I am, I ended up taking the truck to a trusted garage down the road from me and he replaced the hose for about $37. I just couldn’t get to the hose myself and feel comfortable in replacing it. I live in a rural area, and this garage works on everything from farm equipment to race cars, so I knew they would know what to do. The local dodge dealer wouldn’t have been able to get to it for 4 days. I can’t do without my truck that long (I live about 20 miles out side of Marysville Ohio, if anyone knows where that is)…

My baby is a 96 3500 dual extended 4x4. 93,000 miles. Almost new! Two tone green and silver. #ad
I get about 17 MPG.

Mark


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Mark
1996 Dodge 3500, 4x4, Green and silver.

 

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N8LHG,

Welcome aboard, 37 bucks sounds good to me. Forget the Dodge dealer, stay with the local. For parts, try Mopar4less.com.

I also get about 17, mix of hilly rural, flat interstate, lead foot.

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97'3500 SLT CC,4x4,5 spd,4. 10,92K,EBY aluminum flatbed,Dee Zee running boards,Dee Zee Platinum drop boxes,Mag-Hytec,BD Brake,Pyscotty,Jardine 4",Geno's monster tip,TST plate,Bilstein,Isspro,PIAA Superwhites,Tekonsha Sentinel,over Thanksgiving weekend;Roadmasters,370injectors,ATS.

 

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I have replaced a bunch of the fuel return line hoses, and after doing it a few times, it is amazing how easy it becomes. It took me 2 hours the first time, and now only takes a half hour.

Anyways, I dunno why Dodge put a crimp clamp ont he hardest to reach hose, but the easiest way to remove it is to cut it with a pair of dikes. The lower 2 clamps are easiest to reach from under the truck, and so is the clamp on the back of the motor. The clamp closest to the injection pump is easy to reach with a long 1/4" drive extension and the appropriate socket.

LOL the easiest one I did was on a truck I had the transmission taken out of. Could stand up right behind the motor and do the whole thing in about 20 mintues! #ad

 

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Are the stock intake and return hoses the same low quality?If so why is it the return line is more apt to leak.

 

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Thanks Evan now at least I know I'm not to slow my first one took me about 1 1/2 hours. I am going to try some of the other ways of doing the job that I have know read about.

 

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N8LHG
Welcome, and 73. Nice to see other hams on here. I think the return line goes faster because the fuel is warmer.
As cheap as fuel line is I did both. Also if you take the rubber hose down to the frame it will be easier the next time too. Keep the local shop happy, looks like they are good guys.
73 KB0OU

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96 CC 4X4 2500 SLT AUTO transmission, PrimeLoc, ISSPRO EGT Boost transmission Temp, GUTTED CAT, 150,000+ Miles still goin' strong, Lots of Ham Radio gear, NO IGNITION NOISE!!! Love my diesel!!!

 

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The fuel is pretty much the same temperature once the truck is running for a while in both lines. The return goes faster because by looking up the numbers on the line on a new truck when they are still visible, the hose was never meant to handle fuel. It is "emissions grade" hose. The supply hose is of better quality and suitable to handle Diesel fuel.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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Oh and by the way... don't pull the line off the steel line on the pump (it can crack), nor off the lines before it. Use a razor blade and slit it and peel it off. It will be stuck on there pretty well anyway.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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Would a cracked line cause a vibration at idle that goes away as the rpms increase?
Please refer to my post (trouble shoot this one), thanks.

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95' 2500 standard trans. 2wd reg cab 125,000 miles.
TST #4 plate kit, 370 Diamond B injectors, Afc spring kit, Gov. spring kit,TST's fuel pressure adapter and 2 guage pillar mount, SPA EGT/Boost guage. Joe D's Sachs clutch is in.