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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Review: Wigidigit block heater bumper plug

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Loosing Prime

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I recently purchased the "Wigidigit" block heater bumper plug from Genos Garage. Apparently they've done some re-designing on the cord/cable and I can potentially see a problem, but I'll go over that farther down.

Enjoy

Craig



The complete contents as shipped. There are two plates that sandwich the bumper between them. When installing one, make sure to install it near the center of the opening and make sure the fit is right. I initially had it closer to the left and it didnt fit as well. Got the plates put together loosely with the screws & nuts and then figured out where exactly it fit best.

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The end of the plug that goes on the block heater. It comes with a clamp to hold tension and prevent it from sliding off instead of the one that has the knurled nut to hold it on. Not a BAD design, but its not the same as the one that has the nut on it.

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The OTHER end of the plug that goes through the metal plate. This is the part I have somewhat of a problem with. Its not servicable, and the cord doesnt appear to be able to be removed without taking the end of the plug apart. Looks like if the cord goes bad, you have to replace the entire thing. If Im not mistaken, the old ones had to be wired in. MY idea of a good design would be a plug that has a short pigtail (heavy duty) coming out of the back of the plate plug and you just plug in a regular block heater cord. That way if something happens to the cord, its easily replacable. Thats just my two cents.

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The plug cover. I HOPE that its something I can find easily or get from the manufacturer, because I can see snapping the cover off. I kinda wish mine was like the older one with the rubber plug, BUT this one is nice that you dont have to actually fiddle around with snapping the rubber plug back in the hole. I've been careful to hold the cover up, unplug, and gently let the cover down.

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Couple of pics installed and with the cord plugged in. I really like it. MUCH easier than just having the plug hanging out.

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I also put one of these on the 06 Mega cab. Basically the same box contents except for the plate. The 3rd gens use a bumper fascia retaining bolt to attach the plate. The rest of the contents are the same as the 99.



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I bought one for my "08" and installed it using the screw hole provided in the bracket. I ended up using a larger screw with a ny-lock luck nut to secure the bracket in place, grade 8 fasteners that were plated.

I did have to cut off the male end of the plug on the block heater cord and strip the wires of their covering to install the cord into the adapter plug. The male plug for the "Wigidigit" had screw to securely retain the block heater cord. Similar to a replaceable plug you would buy from a hardware store to repair a damage plug on an extension cord.

Jim W.
 
Nice !

I think I will buy one also, beats trying to lift the hood when there is 6" or so of snow on it.



How watertight is the exterior cover ?
 
I had a issue with my block heater cord recently and wanted to try one of those. I made a call to get some info from the Tech Line at Geno's on those plugs and NEVER got a call back from them at all. Since they are the only ones selling them I just called EEP and ordered a new cord and installed it instead. Its a shame too as after seeing your photo's that unit looks like a nice addition... ... Andy
 
If it weren't for asthetics, it would be wise to take a cue from many heavy truck builders and mount the plug socket next to the driver's door so you cannot forget to unplug it before you get in to drive it.
 
I've seen it done on emergency vehicles before. I thought seriously of putting a kussmaul auto eject in the spot behind the doors. Has a really nice looking cover as well. I just haven't done it yet. Would be very functional though!
Craig
 
Even with my factory cord behind the bumper, I always loop the extension cord prominently around my driver's side mirror and across the door for just that reason. You only need to forget once or twice to figure out it is easy to do. Or, sometimes my son drives the truck and he'll plug it in and I won't know or vice versa.
 
I extended my factory chord and put a marine plug on mine. I wanted it on the drivers side (because that is where my house plug is). So I drilled a hole in the plastic part of my bumper and mounted the plug. It blends in nicely and really in not very noticable if you are not looking for it (or take a picture of it straight on like these :) . I got it from West Marine, it has stainless contacts and the plug cap fits nice and snug even at 0*.

Here are a few shots:

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One thing you always want on your extension cord for plugging in your truck is a lighted indicator showing it is providing power. Nothing like believing your truck is safe 'n snug all plugged in and discovering the next sub-zero morning the breaker tripped or someone tripped over the cord and unplugged it at the outlet.



A short 12" or so breakaway extension with a lighted end at the end of the power cord will provide protection for your truck plug and wiring as well as visual confirmation of power. The truck-side plug ins depicted here usually have a cord retainer built into the lid. You want the cord to unplug before it breaks that lid off in the event of an accidental drive-off.



Ideally, an intelligent manufacturer, who maybe actually had experience using what they make, would include a simple LED indicator built into their plug-in socket. It's not asking much.



I am painfully aware of the many pitfalls of block heaters, extension cords, outdoor outlets, and everything else to do with keeping a diesel engine warm enough to start. Nothing like a lot filled with 100+ semi tractors with extension cords, many so stiff and undrsized they will not even flex, running everywhere. Cords that cannot supply enough current. Cords that get cut. Cords that got tripped over, driven over, yanked out, etc. GFCI breakers that were tripped or defective. Way too small of a circuit providing the power for all those heaters proving the contractor had no clue how many amps those babies can draw.



It all ends up the same: many tractors, or maybe even a whole fleet, that will not start. Loads that do not get hauled. Overworked mechanics dragging a handful of tractors at a time into the heated shop to thaw out. After about two such occurences, the terminal manager will order all tractors to be left running when temps go below zero. Nobody gets a fuel bonus.



Heaters, cords, plug-ins, etc are vital, serious business that few people take seriously until they fail.
 
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The light is a good idea for someone who powers it all the time.

I have mine set on a timer and it kicks on 2 hours before I leave the house so the light would not do me any good.

The small break away section is also a good idea! Mine I cant miss because I almost trip over it as I approach the truck, but a nice 1' "extension" couldn't hurt.
 
I use a timer at home, too, but I still want to see the end of that cord lit up when I unplug it. The timer is one more potential problem and you just can't see electricity without an indicator.



Timers are great money savers, but sometimes foul, icy winter weather causes power outages. Most are just temporary, but not all. Either way, if even just a 2-hour outage occurs, your timer will just be kicking on when you need to leave. Pros and cons to everything, I suppose. But like you, I will continue to use my timer.



For brutally cold nights, below minus 20 or 25, I also use a magnetic heater on the bottom of my oil pan. The synthetic oil would still flow ok without it, but it radiates heat up into the crankcase, too, and that can't hurt. Much like those oil-filled radiant heaters for your house.
 
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